Jump to content

Im Stuck In 4 Lo. Replaced Selector Switch Now What?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 00 1500 4x4. it has the auto 4wd. i went to put it 4wd lo yesterday and the lights flashed then went out on the selector switch. Then the service 4wd came on. after finally flooring it enough in low 1 i was finally able to get out of the mess i was in,because the front tires wouldn't engage. the truck seemed like it was still in low gear when i proceeded to go home. lucky it was only 5 miles. So i did some research and went and got a new selector switch today from the dealer. I came home unhooked the battery cable installed the switch. After i hooked the cable back up i started the truck. the service 4wd light had went off but the selector switch didn't have any lights on. The truck is still stuck in i guess 4lo because the transmission shifts through all the gears fine. Could some one please help me with this.....

Posted

Check out the solenoid down on the transfer case. I had the same problem on my 03. The selector switch was a good bet as they do tend to fail. I almost replaced mine as well but had a few miles left on the extended warrany so I took it in. Switch was fine, solenoid was bad. Have not had any probles or Service 4WD messages since. Good luck, winter is on it's way!

Posted

Probably the encoder motor sensor.. (same thing happened to me, stuck in 4lo)

88962315 Is the Sensor and

12384990 Is a new seal

 

 

1) remove front drive shaft

2) remove encoder motor (shift motor) from t-case

3) remove 2-3 screws (ill remember if i look at it) from shift motor cover

4) mark gear locations relative to each other. there's 2 gears and they need to be put back in exactly how they were taken out

5) unplug sensor and remove sensor from larger gear

6) reverse procedure

 

If you have access to a scan tool... dtc C0327 is often indicative of the encoder motor sensor failure.

Posted

Good question. As the dealer replaced it, I didn't check it out myself. There are only a few wires running to the x-fer case, but I couldn't say which were for the 4WD solenoid and which were for the Hi/Lo. The shadetree method of testing it would be to just disconnect and put 12V to the thing, but I'm also not sure if those solenoids have some sort of position sensor built in that could fry. If you don't get a better answer to that question this evening, I'll see tomorrow if one of our guys here know the answer to that. We may very well make the thing.

Posted
I would start by checking fuses.

 

 

And after doing some reading on here. i now know that theres a fuse for the "automatic transfercase" and guess what.......... it was blown! so after putting in a new one. im good to go. So i will gladly accept the dumbass of the year award. :eek:

Posted
I would start by checking fuses.

 

 

And after doing some reading on here. i now know that theres a fuse for the "automatic transfercase" and guess what.......... it was blown! so after putting in a new one. im good to go. So i will gladly accept the dumbass of the year award. :eek:

 

Glad you got it fixed.

Ran into the same thing at work thats why I said check fuses first . Sometimes people forget to check the basics before throwing a bunch of time and money into it.

Posted
I would start by checking fuses.

 

 

And after doing some reading on here. i now know that theres a fuse for the "automatic transfercase" and guess what.......... it was blown! so after putting in a new one. im good to go. So i will gladly accept the dumbass of the year award. :eek:

 

Glad you got it fixed.

Ran into the same thing at work except it was on an S-10 Blazer ,thats why I said check fuses first . Sometimes people forget to check the basics before throwing a bunch of time and money into it.

 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 344 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...