Jump to content

Envoy 2000 Nightmare Problems

Envoy2000

Recommended Posts

Envoy2000 Enthusiast

Envoy2000

Posted
Posted

Hi all, this is my 1st post, I hope someone can help me with these nightmare issues I have with my 2000 Envoy.

 

Here we go:

 

1. When I turn on my truck, my gauges do not work right away. I have to roll a couple of kms, and then they start working again, but sometimes they just never come back on.

 

2. When I start my truck, and start driving, my truck starts popping from beneath the truck or hood, not to sure, but it feels like a backfire. The pedal is to the metal, and the truck very slowly accelerates to desired speeds. When I am on the road or highway, the trucks RPM seems as if it was stuck in 3rd gear.

 

3. When I turn off my truck, my key stys stuck in the ignition. I have to remove the ignition cover and press the release button to remove the key everytime...people think I am stealing my own truck, it's getting embarrassing!

 

4. My heather does not work when my gauges do not work, but as soon as the gauges restart working, the heater starts as well.

 

5. Today, my head beams (lights) stopped working. I only have my parking lights functioning.

 

This is what my mechanic did to try to solve the problem, but to no avail:

 

1. Replaced fuel pomp ($700)

 

2. Change ignition system completely with used one, not new ($500)

 

3. Fuel filter changed ($75)

 

4. Change battery to 700 AMP one. As soon as I installed, everything was working like new, but one tour around the block, and problems came back.

 

Result:

 

I am going crazy!!!

 

I have tried 5 other mechanics, and they all said: "I am not touching your truck, go to the dealer".

 

 

Can anyone help me out??

gmtech4 Senior Enthusiast

gmtech4

Posted
Posted

are we now learning that dealers know your truck better than corner garages do ?

 

tell me you didn't pay that butch

 

not 1 code pulled or mentioned ?

 

now all your money is gone for a real *&*&^% 'in diagnoses

 

tell us or all your friends not to go to that idiot.

 

now I'll tell ya ,take it to the dealer

wild willy Enthusiast

wild willy

Posted
Posted

Sounds like an intermittent electrical problem to me-- Battery terminals tight? Corrosion on some of the grounding straps?

 

Can be a real bear to locate and diagnosis- when you test a circuit it may be(intermittently) working.... good luck-

68haywagon Enthusiast

68haywagon

Posted
Posted
4. Change battery to 700 AMP one. As soon as I installed, everything was working like new, but one tour around the block, and problems came back.

 

This right here makes me think the alternator my not be putting out enough power. On the cheap if you think you can do it, pull it out and take it to an auto parts store. They usually have a bench tester and do it for free.

 

If that don't work, take it to someone who actually knows what they are doing...like the dealer.

 

Mike

Envoy2000 Enthusiast

Envoy2000

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Connections on the battery are tight.

 

I am not going back to that garage ever.

 

Other forums have suspected the Mass air flow sensor, maybe the PCM...

 

 

If I go to the dealer, do I make them search or tell them what has been done?

Envoy2000 Enthusiast

Envoy2000

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I noticed that when I put the key in the ignition and turn the key just before it starts and then press the shifter button, all my gauges come back on, but when I turn on my truck, the gauges turn back off.

 

Can there be something with the transmission cause I had it replaced with a rebuilt one 3 years ago, and they told me that there was a code that appeared when they reinstalled it: p0101

  • 2 weeks later...
Envoy2000 Enthusiast

Envoy2000

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Now my radio, and head lights do not work anymore...I checked the fuses and they were burnt. Change them and all is fine.

 

Could this be a ground issue?

 

I have an appointment with the dealer in 2 weeks, these guys are busy.

Envoy2000 Enthusiast

Envoy2000

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I went to get my alternator bench tested, and it was fine.

 

Ground issue a possibility.

 

Because when I changed my ignition cylinder, the truck worked A1, and messed up after a few rides.

When I changed my battery, same story, drove a couple of blocks, and messed up again.

 

When I have my gauges finally working, and then shift to 2nd gear to compensate for the loss of power, my gauges die.

sometimes, i start at the light in 2nd gear, rev up a little high, then go to 3rd, and kick it makes make my gauges come back...sounds crazy, i know...i dont know if i should to see a mechanic or an exorcist!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Next time you're on a road trip to a state where you can still buy it stock up on 12oz cans, you might look into getting certified so you can buy it where you are as well. When they switched from R12 to R134a the test for certification was easy, they basically just wanted the $25
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Getting greedy...   The AC pump has been replaced at least once per service records, and it's been recharged twice since 2018 or so, in approximately 2 year intervals between those charges.   It was done at the same shop...clearly they were enjoying the revenue of recharging the system periodically versus actually tracking down and fixing the leak. I learned that the owner was 88 years old when she passed in 2023, so maybe they assumed only a temporary fix was needed anyway.   The system is basically empty now, the compressor spins freely, so I'm guessing it "just needs a recharge".   I vacuumed it down, and it has basically held overnight. Doesn't appear to leak under vacuum, check! So it must leak under pressure. I don't have a way to pressurize the system and pressurizing it with shop air wouldn't be great for the air dryer (which is probably toast anyway?)   The dryer (accumulator? I'm not an AC expert) has a Schrader valve, but the high side has an old ball-type valve, which are notorious for leaking. It's clearly had schmutz blown out of it at one point because the line/area next to the valve is coated old black crud, which I assume is AC refrigerant residue/oil, or maybe even dirty dye. I think I'll roll the dice and replace the valves. I have a black light around here somewhere so I'll find it and shine it around the engine bay in the dark to see if there's any dye.   I can't think of another way to track down the leak other than injecting some dye (if it doesn't have any) and having it charged up. We can't buy R134a off the shelf here anymore, so I'll run it up to Jiffy Lube and have them do it. I think I have a coupon. At the very least, the charge should last long enough for a year or two, according to history. I think this truck will be long gone by then. But cold AC is a selling point.    
    • clowe1243
      6.2L L87 Powertrain Engine Noise (Lifter Failure) Question

      By clowe1243 · Posted

      Got the truck back today.  Called them yesterday to get an update, and miraculously my truck is finished?!?! The $13k out the door was complete bullshit!  Ended up being over $14k.  They added some bullshit service bulletin that I cant even find, where they replaced my radiator without telling me or asking me, and charging me for it.  Need to do more research into it, cause they leaked the first delivered radiator was ran over by FedEX.  Sounds like bullshit to me. 2.5 Months for an engine swap, which ended up being remanufactured, not new; ****ing ridiculous.  Brakes are squishy as hell, not sure if its from sitting.  Will give a couple days to see it that figures it self out.  GAVE IT BACK TO ME WITH 1 GALLON OF GAS!  Just filled the tank the day before drop off, more bullshit.  My dash cam SD card was formatted, not really much I can do about that. 3 year, 100k GM warranty at least.  Time to sell it and say **** off to GM.  Bad experience.  Cant wait for the survey email to come through.  Overpriced Raptor R, here I come!
    • haoleboyZ71
      Radio Update

      By haoleboyZ71 · Posted

      If I forget the phone in the truck, and forget the truck in the phone, and reconnect.  It works great for the day.  Truck sits overnight, and the next day is a no go.  It will connect Android Auto via usb cable, but not bluetooth.   Ive tried Everything in this thread so far, and nothing works for more than a day.   I think I might have to go to the dealer and have them flash the pcm.   thanks for all the suggestions guys. 👍
    • Bill Lemmond
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Bill Lemmond · Posted

      2022 2500HD Crew Z71 Duramax single alternator.  Recently had the primary (water pump / fan) belt tensioner pulley bearing to fail while hundreds of miles from home of course the plastic pulley melted and belt shredded which took out some wiring. Found a replacement tensioner assembly and belt to continue now would like to find a replacement for just the pulley and bearing to have a spare assembly in case of a repeat, the rest of the tensioner is fine. Has anybody here found a correct replacement part for just the pulley and bearing? Any help is appreciated.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...