Jump to content

2006 Lq4 6.0


Recommended Posts

Posted

Right out of Wikipedia.

 

 

6000

[edit] Generation III

[edit] LQ4

 

The Vortec 6000, or LQ4, is a V8 truck engine. Displacement is 6.0 L (~366 cu in) from 101.6 mm bore and 92 mm stroke. It is an iron/aluminum (2000 model year engines had cast iron heads) design and produces 300 horsepower (220 kW) to 325 horsepower (242 kW) and 360 lb·ft (488 N·m) to 370 lb·ft (502 N·m). LQ4s are built in Romulus, Michigan and Silao, Mexico.

 

LQ4 applications:

 

* Chevrolet Express/GMC Savana

* Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Pickup, 3500 Pickup, Crew Cab, and Chassis Cab/GMC Sierra 2500 HD Pickup and Crew Cab, C3, Denali, and 3500 Pickup and Chassis Cab, 1500HD Crew Cab

* Chevrolet Suburban/GMC Yukon XL Denali

* Hummer H2 SUT

* GMC Yukon Denali

 

But seriously...what did you think it was going to put out...like 500??? Nothing wrong with 325 hp and 360 ft lbs man....its only a 6.0L engine...not a diesel. The old 454SS only put out like 230hp and 385ft-lbs....the 6.0L is a small block putting out just as much torque and almost 100 more ponies.

Posted

No, I do not expect 500. If its 325, that's fine with me. 300 is a little low I think. I"m not saying those are horrible numbers, their OK, i mean i didn't buy the truck just because it looks nice, but compared to a 5.7 hemi at 345 out the box, common.

And what the hell kind of statement is produces 300 horsepower (220 kW) to 325 horsepower? Which one is it or how do you know which one you'll have without a dyno?

I"m not knocking the motor by any means, I guess it just means my pockets will be much lighter to gain some high numbers.

Posted
No, I do not expect 500. If its 325, that's fine with me. 300 is a little low I think. I"m not saying those are horrible numbers, their OK, i mean i didn't buy the truck just because it looks nice, but compared to a 5.7 hemi at 345 out the box, common.

And what the hell kind of statement is produces 300 horsepower (220 kW) to 325 horsepower? Which one is it or how do you know which one you'll have without a dyno?

I"m not knocking the motor by any means, I guess it just means my pockets will be much lighter to gain some high numbers.

HP is a fictitious number derives from speed distance traveled and torque. HP Sells cars...Torque is what gets them moving...HP means dick all.

 

Look at diesels...your lucky to get 300 hp from a diesel...but the d-max comes stock with over 600 ft-lbs of torque...and it runs like a raped ape.

 

The hemi comes with 345 hp and 375 ft-lbs, yours has 300 (325)hp and 360-380...likely 380 ft-lbs. your truck is lighter and you have a much lower first gear...my 4.8L spanks hemi trucks for fun...

Posted
ha well thanks for the pep talk, I especially have more torque being I have a 5 speed manual.

yeah, you'd walk away from a hemi ram. With a tune, it would definitely not be any contest.

Posted

FYI - A good place to look for vehicle specs is MSN Autos.

 

Just go to autos.msn.com and select the make/model. You will get a page showing the different generations of said model (up to like 12 years back I think). Just click 'specs' under that model and you will see what engines were available with that vehicle and what their ratings were.

 

I just looked up an '06 2500 HD and it is listed at 300 horses and 360 lb-ft of torque. (Main engine specs at the bottom).

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,847
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    FiLo
    Newest Member
    FiLo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 655 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • sorry to bump an old thread, im a bit clueless with this stuff, would these fit a 2019+ Silverado? https://wiperpro.com.au/products/chevrolet-silverado-wiper-blades mainly wondering if the beam shape stays planted at highway speed, thats what seems to let the factory ones down imo
    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...