02 Silverado Manual Transmission Removal

jml755 · April 12, 2010

02 Silverado 4x4 clutch started to slip (4.3L, 5 spd) few weeks ago (100,000K miles). I've got the shop manuals and decided to do it myself since it's a spare vehicle and I'd never done a clutch before. Figured it'd be fun. Mistake # 1.

The guys who write the shop manuals (and the powertrain engineers) have a sick sense of humor, IMO. I remember when shop manuals used to have PICTURES of actual parts and service procedures. Now all they have is a grainy autocad dwg with numbered arrows (sometimes) pointing to parts. Sometimes there is NO description of where the part is that you're supposed to remove.

Anyway, I wrestled with the removal of stuff ACCORDING TO THE MANUAL but even then had to improvise on a number of things in order for stuff to come out. For instance, took 45 mins to get the shift lever assy off because the big rubber insulator between the top of the trans and the floor pan was a pain to get off. Finally soaked it with soapy spray to get it to slide out without tearing it up. Other stuff, starter, prop shafts, cross-member all came off pretty easy.

Got the transfer case out even though the description of the procedure in the manual leaves a lot to be desired and is not accurate, IMO.

Built a trans jack frame out of 2x stock and attached it to a floor jack. Got the trans loose even though there were a few bolts that were darn near impossible to reach up near the top and took every extension and several different approaches before I got them off.

Now here's my question. The trans is free from the engine and sitting on the stand but even with tilting it, it doesn't appear there is enough clearance to get it down because the exhaust crossover pipe goes cross-car right underneath it, about midway. The manual didn't say anything about removing the exhaust system. Hate to do unnecessary removal as exhaust bolts will require heat to get off and reuse. But from the looks of things, that may be the easiest approach. comments/Opinions?

Also considered leaving the trans up above the crossover pipe on the stand as I think I can get the slave cylinder out and a new one installed since there's about 3-4 inches of gap between the trans and bell housing. Can probably even get the pressure plate and flywheel off with it up there, although that would probably be a pain. The problem with this approach, I think, will be the removal of the pilot bearing. Comments/Opinions on this method?

BTW, noticed the back of the engine dropped down considerably when the trans was off, so the face of the bellhousing is no longer vertical. Figured that it just rocked back on the isolators. Any harm in leaving it that way for a while or should I jack it up level while I work on the trans?

gmtech4 · April 13, 2010

put it back together and take the GD exh off

jml755 · April 13, 2010

put it back together and take the GD exh off

Thanks. Sorry if I offended you with my post. Just looking for some advice from people who've BTDT. Just wish the shop manuals would have said that to start with.

nickvrebel · April 15, 2010

the y pipe has to come out, you are fighting a losing battle otherwise.

jml755 · April 22, 2010

Nickv,

yeah, I took it off and it made the job a lot easier. Just wish the shop manual had said so right up front. I kept looking at it and thinking that it would be easier with it out but didn't know if it was "necessary" to remove it for clearance.

Only bad thing (as I feared) was that one of the pipe to manifold nuts spun on removal attempt, so it cost me a few hours of cutting/torching to get the stud out. Considered leaving only 2 of 3 studs holding the exhaust pipe flange on but decided I'd replace the stud & do the job right. Last mechanic who replaced the clutch (under warranty before I got the truck) left the top trans bolt off & installed the pilot bearing wrong.

Anyway, flywheel's been remachined, new clutch disk, pressure plate & slave cylinder installed, just need to button things up this weekend.

nickvrebel · April 22, 2010

sounds good.

definitely put that third bolt in, you can set it up with a stud again or just a bolt and nut.

The top bell housing bolt is a real PITA, for bell housing bolts I found that a 15 mm GearWrench was a miracle worker.

jml755 · April 22, 2010

sounds good.

definitely put that third bolt in, you can set it up with a stud again or just a bolt and nut.

The top bell housing bolt is a real PITA, for bell housing bolts I found that a 15 mm GearWrench was a miracle worker.

NickV, funny you mention the Gearwrench. I bought a 15mm stubby during this job. It really helped. And I did consider just blasting the stud out and using a bolt/nut but I took the extra time and was careful to save the threads so I could replace it with a stud. Your post reminded me to get a 10mm die to chase the threads on the other studs before the pipe goes back on.

jml755 · April 26, 2010

Just an update. Got the tranny back in and everything put back together over the weekend.

Couple of comments.

I changed the sequence from the shop manual on a couple of things on installation that made the job easier. I put the shift lever assembly on while the trans was still lowered somewhat but forward close to the engine (maybe 1" or so away, enough to have the trans shaft away from the pressure plate a little). This allowed me to get at the 4 bolts on the assembly easier from the cab without the big rubber insulator sqeezed up between the trans and bottom of the floor pan. (I could move the insulator around wherever I needed to get at the bolts) I then positioned the insulator so when I raised the trans up to install height, it did a nice job of compressing it back beteween the trans and floor pan. In retrospect, I would not remove the shift lever assy first as the manual says. I'd get the trans unbolted and then drop the trans a little to uncompress the insulator pad, so it could be moved out of the way to get at the shift assy bolts.

Also bled the clutch before the exhaust and front prop shaft were installed for easier access to the bleed screw. I put the exhaust pipe back on before the cross-member and xfer case were in. Was a piece of cake for maneuverability and bolt access.

When I was bleeding the clutch, neighbor who was helping thought the pedal pressure was "mushy" even though I was just getting fluid on the purge. I checked it and kind of agreed. So we kept doing it, adding fluid to the reservoir. Anyway, gave up after a few minutes, finished the install and took a test drive, still worried about the "mushy" feel. Once behind the wheel and driving down the street, running through the gears, I realized the pedal pressure was normal (Guess it was just the power of suggestion on the "mushiness" )