Jump to content

4.8 Should I Tune-up Or Get A 5.3?


Recommended Posts

Posted

So here is the thing, I had a 99 5.3L and traded it for a 2000 Sierra because I wanted it black. Then I come to find out it was a 4.8 not a 5.3 :thumbs: Total difference in power!! I read that the HP is actually the same between both but the 5.3 has about +25ft-lbs torque and i can feel it. its hard downgrading.

 

Now my question is, should I do an engine swap (and what would be required to do one) or should i just do some performance mods (ie chip, exhaust,....)?

 

Please help me, I've only owned a truck for a year now. I've always had import cars. Love my GM though.

 

Ford sucks, go GM trucks!! :P

Posted
So here is the thing, I had a 99 5.3L and traded it for a 2000 Sierra because I wanted it black. Then I come to find out it was a 4.8 not a 5.3 :thumbs: Total difference in power!! I read that the HP is actually the same between both but the 5.3 has about +25ft-lbs torque and i can feel it. its hard downgrading.

 

Now my question is, should I do an engine swap (and what would be required to do one) or should i just do some performance mods (ie chip, exhaust,....)?

 

Please help me, I've only owned a truck for a year now. I've always had import cars. Love my GM though.

 

Ford sucks, go GM trucks!! :P

 

hmm well, id probably go with the upgrades and not engine swap! you can spend the same amount of money u would on buying a new engine, and put it into mods + make more power then the engine swap. in my opinion. But im new to all this as well, To a certain extent. Dont get me wrong i know a bit about it, just not as much as others on here.

Posted

Go 6.0 or go home. Not worth upgrading to only a 5.3 to which you will wind up doing the same upgrades that you could do on your 4.8.

Posted

6.0 is a joke. Check the for sale section and look at my 6.2L for sale. I beat 5.3's and 6.0's all day long and all I have is a muffler.

Posted

I'd try a BB tune and a gear swap if it was me. I'd consider 4.10's and even 4.56's to get that low end torque you want. The tune should help alot as well. Even a higher RPM stall converter would help. One from a Trailblazer would work nice. Another option would be a cam swap. All would get you running better than your old 5.3

 

No engine swap needed unless you have alot of extra cash and time laying around :thumbs:

Posted

4.8 can be a beast with upgrades...5.3 isen't a huge amount of difference to justify an engine swap...jumping to a 6.0 or 6.2 is overkill

Posted

It was true in the 60's and it's true now. There is no replacement for cubic displacement.

 

If you do decide to swap be sure to get one form the same generation donor vehicle it will save you time and effort in the long run. GM made advancement in sensors mainly the reluctor wheel on the crank, drive by wire ect. You can upgrade computer and wiring harness but it's an easier plug and play if you can find one from the same year.

Posted

wow, lot of different responses. Thanks guys. I should also state that the main reason for this is not for racing or anything. I just want to feel that power i had before and get some more while im at it, all the while try to maintain a good mpg average. It feels to me like the 4.8 works harder and is less efficient than the 5.3. I have no experiance with the 6L.

 

With those of you that say to tune it up, what is the best cost-effective route? i've havent seen/heard of a particularly good tuner. Would a tune really close the gap to a 5.3 range of power or better?

 

those that say engine. would swapping the rods and piston be a good idea considering its the same block and bore just different stroke? And will a 6L fit into a 2000 sierra?

Posted

All the LS series small blocks have the same exterior dimensions. So a 4.8, 5.3, 5.7, 6.0, 6.2 all look the same on the outside. If you just want to wake up your 4.8. A mild cam and pcm tune would make you very happy.

Posted

What kinda cams would you recommend? Yeah, the blower would be sweet but not trying to spend that kinda cash, lol.

Honestly, not looking at spending more than a grand or so on everything.

Posted
6.0 is a joke. Check the for sale section and look at my 6.2L for sale. I beat 5.3's and 6.0's all day long and all I have is a muffler.

 

Whatever. See thearborbarber's response below (emphasis added), which offers the most simplicity for the OP.

 

It was true in the 60's and it's true now. There is no replacement for cubic displacement.

 

If you do decide to swap be sure to get one form the same generation donor vehicle it will save you time and effort in the long run. GM made advancement in sensors mainly the reluctor wheel on the crank, drive by wire ect. You can upgrade computer and wiring harness but it's an easier plug and play if you can find one from the same year.

 

For the OP, I've read on forums like PerformanceTrucks.net that 4.8 guys are having a lot of luck with the tried and true 212/218 low lift cam that Comp Cams grinds. An advantage is that you can still use your stock torque converter and you can drive it with the stock tune, although a custom PCM tune by someone like Black Bear or Wheatley will optimize it for the most power.

 

If you do a cam swap, plan on hardened pushrods and upgraded valve springs (yellow LS6 springs would be perfect for that cam).

 

jro909 mentioned gears. If your tires are in the 31" to 33" range, consider 4.10 gears.

Posted

Are you on glue?

The difference in the 5.3 and the 4.8L are so small that only a real dyno can measure them. I've driven both, and I cant tell.

 

If you have a large difference in power, you probably got one with 3.42 gears and your 5.3 had 3.73 gears. You would never be able to notice 25 or less ft-lbs, unless you were timing your 0-60, 60fts, or 1/4 mile.

 

Tune it and it will be much quicker than your 5.3 was.

Posted

The thing that I believe is making the most difference is probably that on my 5.3 i had stock 245/70/16 tires but current 4.8 is riding on LT285/70/17 tires. I would imagine that the power lag I'm feeling may have something to do with that but was almost sure it was the different engine size.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 539 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...