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Ignition

bradyjames

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bradyjames Enthusiast

bradyjames

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I have a 1989 GMC Sierra 2500 2 wheel drive. I started my truck, drove it down the street to return a dvd and returned home. When I pulled into my driveway I put the truck in park and turned the ignition off and pulled the key out and my truck was still running at full idle I put the key back in and tried to turn it off again and nothing happened. I disconnected the battery and the truck was still running. Out of desperation and panic, I popped the center spark plug from the rotor cap with a screw driver and got a little ZAP! lol and the motor finally shut down. What's going on here, what area should I be looking at? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks

Brady James

bradyjames Enthusiast

bradyjames

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When I start my truck I can't turn it off with the key in the ignition. I can only shut it down by pulling the ignition/ecu fuse. I replaced the ignition switch with a new one and I am still having the same problem. I put the new switch in, adjusted it forward and backward to find the start and stop positions, but I can't find the stop position. So I took the switch off the column and with a screw driver I went through all the positions and I can make it start, but not stop.

 

What am I missing? Please help. Thank you.

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bradyjames Enthusiast

bradyjames

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so I have FINALLY figured out my ignition problem. It all reverted back to a temporary brake fix that involved a jumper wire. In the brake switch, I had jumped the red and the orange wires by having my dad solder a jumper wire between the two so my brake lights would work (my brakes lights are a whole 'nother story lol) well, just so happened that the jumper wire was keeping a constant feed of power to my ignition, not allowing the engine to shut off with the key. I clipped the jumper wire in half and wah-la! problem solved. That allowed me to turn off the ignition switch with my key in the cylinder. So buying a new ignition switch was a waste of money because the old one turned out to be perfectly fine lol, just glad it was a $9 part. Now how to fix my brake lights....any ideas?

 

Thanks guys for all your answers and help!

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
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You never thought that was a key piece of information? Right after you hotwire your lights suddenly your truck won't shut off........

 

Glad you got the ignition problem fixed

Willshire Enthusiast

Willshire

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Is this jumper right at the switch? Did you test for voltage at the switch? Contstant 12V should be at the brake light switch. The switch is normally-closed-held-open. No power at switch, could be a fuse, power on both sides of switch with pedal pressed, may be bad ground or corroded connection. Check for voltage at brake light itself. If power at light when pedal pressed-bad ground. Hope this helps.

bradyjames Enthusiast

bradyjames

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yes the jumper was right at the switch. I literally soldered a wire between the red and the orange wires then plugged it back together. I will take a picture and post that shows what I did. brake light switch is getting power. I don't know if it is constant though. My hazard lights work and my blinkers work and I initially thought I had bad bulbs, but when I tested them they lit up.

Willshire Enthusiast

Willshire

Posted
Posted
yes the jumper was right at the switch. I literally soldered a wire between the red and the orange wires then plugged it back together. I will take a picture and post that shows what I did. brake light switch is getting power. I don't know if it is constant though. My hazard lights work and my blinkers work and I initially thought I had bad bulbs, but when I tested them they lit up.

 

If the brake lights do not come on, can't remember if they are separate from signals, i suspect the switch. I had a brake switch in my 95, that if you pushed it down and to the right, the lights would not come on but down and to the left they would. Orange wire I believe is GM's constant-voltage colour for most accessories (ignition, radio etc.) so there should be power there all the time. remove the switch from its location or at

least move it away from the pedal. The switch works like your fridge door, it doesn't make contact until it pops out.if you have power to both sides of the switch when you remove it, the switch is making contact. Put your meter or test light to the wire that is not orange (red as you say) and push the switch with your finger. Should see 0V on meter or no light on test light. Red wire is usually 12V when ignition is on so if you jumpered orange to red, it sounds like you back fed the ignition circuit. I thought the brake light switch was gray and purple wires or something like that I may be wrong though. A pic of the switch would help I suppose. It's a bit of a pain in the ass to get at the switch way up high on the pedal and I believe it is adjustable.

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