2010 5.3l Chevy Silverado Oil Leak

[sbfowler]

I've got a slow oil leak on my new 2010 Chevy Silverado with the 5.3L. Took it to the dealer and they put some dye in the oil and will use a UV light to track it down after I drive it around a bit more.

 

I know it will get fixed, but just bummed that this is happening. When I bought my bride a 2003 Tahoe, it had an oil leak at about 7,000 miles, which turned out to be a bad oil pan gasket. Has been dry underneath ever since it was replaced.

 

Here's a link to the leak, note the arrows pointing to the leak:

 

Also, I found the following TSB. This might be the issue. Anyone else having problems with oil leaks on their new 5.3s? Truck only has 3,600 miles on it.

----------------------------------

05-06-01-034J:Engine Oil Leak at Rear Cover Assembly Area

(Engine Block Porosity RTV Repair Procedure) - (Nov 12, 2009)

 

Models: 2004-2007 Buick Rainier

2008-2009 Buick LaCrosse Super, Allure Super (Canada Only)

2005-2010 Cadillac CTS-V

2007-2010 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT

2003-2009 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

2003-2010 Chevrolet Corvette

2004-2006 Chevrolet SSR

2005-2010 Chevrolet Silverado, Silverado SS

2006-2007 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS

2006-2009 Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS, Impala SS

2007-2010 Chevrolet Avalanche, Suburban, Tahoe

2009-2010 Chevrolet Colorado Pickup

2010 Chevrolet Camaro

2003-2009 GMC Envoy

2003-2010 GMC Sierra

2004-2005 GMC Envoy XUV

2007-2010 GMC Yukon XL, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL Denali

2009-2010 GMC Canyon

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO

2005-2008 Pontiac Grand Prix GXP

2008-2009 Pontiac G8 GT

2009 Pontiac G8 GXP

2005-2009 Saab 9-7X 5.3i

2008-2009 Saab 9-7X Aero

2003-2010 HUMMER H2

2006-2010 HUMMER H3

with 5.3L, 5.7L, 6.0L, 6.2L, 7.0L VORTEC™ GEN III or GEN IV V8 Engine (All Aluminum Block) (RPOs L33, LC9, LH6, LH8, LH9, LM4, LS4, LS1, LS6, L76, L77, LFA, LZ1, LS2, L92, L94, L99, L9H, LS3, LS9, LSA, LS7)

 

This bulletin is being revised to add RPOs and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-01-034I (Section 06 -- Engine/Propulsion System).

Condition

 

Some customers may comment on an engine oil leak.

 

Cause

Upon initial diagnosis, it may be determined that the leak is coming from the rear cover gasket. This condition may be caused by engine block porosity on the sealing surface. This issue pertains to aluminum block applications only.

 

Correction

Follow the steps for Oil Leak Diagnosis in SI to determine the source of the leak. If the leak has been diagnosed as coming from the engine rear cover assembly, refer to Engine Rear Cover Replacement in SI and remove the engine rear cover assembly. Inspect the engine block and engine rear cover for porosity on the mating surfaces.

• If porosity is found on the engine rear cover (see illustration below), replace the engine rear cover assembly, GM P/N 12633579.

• If porosity is found on the engine block, use the following procedure to apply RTV to repair the engine block porosity.

 

The porosity issue is in the gasket sealing surface at the top of the cover, near the high pressure oil crossover port. Refer to the picture below. The oil leaks by the gasket and runs down the side of the cover, and may appear to be a leak at the t-joint area of the cover. The fix is to replace the cover with GM P/N 12633579. Also, if porosity is found anywhere on the sealing surface of the engine block, use the following procedure to apply RTV to repair the engine block porosity. Refer to the illustration below.

 

Important: Clean any residual oil from the block and cover before applying the sealant in the next step.

 

1. Wipe a small amount of RTV, P/N 12378521 (in Canada, use P/N 88901148), onto the surface using a plastic scraper to fill the porosity.

2. Remove any excess RTV material, especially from inside the high pressure oil passage. Refer to #1 in the above illustration.

3. The joint may be closed immediately after applying the RTV. Total joint time after the RTV has been applied must be under 20 minutes.

 

Important: Refer to Engine Rear Cover Replacement in SI and follow the tightening specifications and sequence.

 

4. Reinstall the engine rear cover using a new gasket and a new crankshaft rear main seal. Refer to Engine Rear Cover Replacement in SI.

[jro909]

its common from what i've read on here, no worries your not alone...

[sbfowler]

I've been driving this truck around and will be getting it back into the dealer soon, maybe even tomorrow morning. I did crawl back under this evening and found what appears to be a leaking rack/pinion. This could be blowing back onto the bellhousing or I could have two leaks... thoughts? Note how wet the bottom of the assembly is.

 

its common from what i've read on here, no worries your not alone...

[Stevens03]

Power steering and Rear main seal are both common issues

 

I'm sure the dealership will fix you right up.

[sbfowler]

As follow-up, they did replace the power steering gear assembly. They also rechecked for the oil leak around the oil pan and did not locate any of the dye that had been placed inside the engine/oil a week earlier using the UV light. I'll keep an eye on the seeping oil between the trans and oil pan area, but am back on the road!

 

Power steering and Rear main seal are both common issues

 

I'm sure the dealership will fix you right up.

[kdixer]

As follow-up, they did replace the power steering gear assembly. They also rechecked for the oil leak around the oil pan and did not locate any of the dye that had been placed inside the engine/oil a week earlier using the UV light. I'll keep an eye on the seeping oil between the trans and oil pan area, but am back on the road!

 

Power steering and Rear main seal are both common issues

 

I'm sure the dealership will fix you right up.

 

 

During my first oil change I noticed exactly what your picture shows. Oily residue on back of oil pan and bottom of bell housing. I wiped it clean and planned on getting it looked at if it continued. During my 2nd oil change it was clean. I am not sure if a seal just needed "broken in" or if it was from assembly. But fortunately I have not noticed it leaking any more.

[nebrgas]

I purchased my 2010 GMC Sierra 5.3 in 4/10. After first dealer oil change I noticed the slow leak/drip on the bottom of the bell housing. Dealer did the dye trace and states that they need to drop the transmission to fix. I am sick as the truck only has 2,600 mi. on it and do not like the idea of having to take it apart. When I ask dealer if they had seen this problem before, service manager said "no". Looks as if there may have been a service bulletin on this problem, so not sure they're being honest with me. Noticed that a previous poster did a 2nd oil change and drip stopped, so not sure what to do. Has anyone had their the seal repair done? If so, did it fix the problem? Dave

[Stevens03]

I purchased my 2010 GMC Sierra 5.3 in 4/10. After first dealer oil change I noticed the slow leak/drip on the bottom of the bell housing. Dealer did the dye trace and states that they need to drop the transmission to fix. I am sick as the truck only has 2,600 mi. on it and do not like the idea of having to take it apart. When I ask dealer if they had seen this problem before, service manager said "no". Looks as if there may have been a service bulletin on this problem, so not sure they're being honest with me. Noticed that a previous poster did a 2nd oil change and drip stopped, so not sure what to do. Has anyone had their the seal repair done? If so, did it fix the problem? Dave

 

I did and it wasn't a problem.

[MikeSgmc]

Did my first oil change last night at 3,600 miles on my 6.2, same leak, same location. Tonight I smelled burning oil, looked like even more oil from last night. Also noticed it around one of the main bolts to the housing. How slow are these leaks??? I don't have time to go to the dealer for 2 weeks. I will be on vacation, driving my truck, in 80-90 degree weather, oh yea, up Mt Washington. This better hold up until I get back.

[sbfowler]

I took my 2010 Silverado back in after oil kept appearing on the bottom of the oil pan. It still had the UV dye inside the engine and they were able to trace it back to the rear main seal, which was replaced. Hopefully this will be the end of the seeping oil!

Did my first oil change last night at 3,600 miles on my 6.2, same leak, same location. Tonight I smelled burning oil, looked like even more oil from last night. Also noticed it around one of the main bolts to the housing. How slow are these leaks??? I don't have time to go to the dealer for 2 weeks. I will be on vacation, driving my truck, in 80-90 degree weather, oh yea, up Mt Washington. This better hold up until I get back.

[bulliesmt77]

Just got the oil changed on my 2009 Silverado with the 6.2L. It just hit 16k and service tech told me that they noticed the rear was damp and they put dye in. So I guess at next oil change they will determine what needs fixed. They offered me an enterprise car so no big deal I guess.

[jro909]

damn i wonder what the deal is here with seals in that area, i know 800s had trans pump seal problems...900s get rear main seal problems, awsome lol

[sbfowler]

I started this thread and have more bad news to report. The same place as before is now wet again at 15,156 miles. The dealer put it on the rack and confirmed something was leaking. Will schedule another appointment and see what the issue is this time....ARGH.....SO DISAPPOINTED.

[SouthCo]

Damn.. sorry to hear the leak is back or that youve got a new one. I've got about 6k miles on my 2010 and my fingers are crossed as so far no leaks and no oil consumption issues.

[jaredlucky16]

Rack common, rear main even more common. Sometimes when you get the transmission down its actually the cover that holds the rear main that is leaking