Jump to content

Idler And Pittman Arm


Recommended Posts

Posted

Recently as some of you know, I have had some work done on my truck at the dearlership for other reasons. While on the lift the mechanic brought something else to my attention. I have some "slop" in my tie rod assembly. He showed me the movement and told me that I need an idler and pittman arm replacement. I find this to be true because for one thing a GM HD steering assembly is grossly undersized and junk in my book. I have owned 4 4x4 GM trucks with IFS and this has been a known problem. In fact I only have 49 k miles on it. Also, I have some "knocks" and feedback through the wheel when turning and encountering bumps that back this up. My first question is: If I replace the idler arm, do I have to replace the Pivot Bracket also? Can I tell if it's just one or the other, idler or pittman, or do I just replace them both? If I carefully replace them, not moving the wheels, can I just go on my way afterward or do I need an alignment also? This replacement looks to get pricey. I think I just traded my last truck when I was starting to get these symptoms.

Posted

I did an idler arm in my 04, a cheap one from napa was like $50, and the guy said I would prolly be back in 20,000 miles but he had another one with a lifetime warrenty for $100 so if it lasts me 40,000 I'll be happy. I got 20,000 on it now and no problems. also get an alignment definatly after doing this

Posted

I scored Moog Pitman and Idler arms from NAPA for about $180 out the door. Both have lifetime warranties. They're not terribly hard to replace yourself if you have a puller. The only thing you need to know is if your Pitman arm is a 3 spline or 4 spline. I hear the 4 is much more common, but mine had 3. You shouldn't need an alignment because once the Pitman goes on (There's only 3 or 4 possible ways. It'll be obvious which one is right..) the idler can just pivot until it lines up. However, if you had the truck aligned recently, everything is aligned to those worn parts. Luckily I had a 6 month warranty on my alignment from the shop that did it, so I replaced the parts and took it in and cashed in on the warranty. :thumbs:

Posted

My 2001 with 155,000 is now ready for this repair. An alignment shop quoted me $450.00 to replace both parts plus an alignment. Don't know if this is reasonable price or not.

Posted

I have access to a ball joint puller/spreader and a lift so I will probably do it. I can get a new Moogs set at Autozone for about $199. Ok, with that I do not need a new Idler Pivot Bracket also?

Posted

6 month alignment warrenty huh? that sounds pretty good considering GM's can go outta wack fairly often. when you put the new pitman arm on just mark where the old one was

Posted
I have access to a ball joint puller/spreader and a lift so I will probably do it. I can get a new Moogs set at Autozone for about $199. Ok, with that I do not need a new Idler Pivot Bracket also?

 

Shouldn't need one unless the old one is messed up.

 

 

 

6 month alignment warrenty huh? that sounds pretty good considering GM's can go outta wack fairly often. when you put the new pitman arm on just mark where the old one was

 

Yep. Automatic 6 month, and for something like 70 bucks I could make it a year.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Ok that confirms the extra quart theme they are still going with which must mean they have noted some initial use more so then some engines and probably the bigger factor in all of this probably isn't the engine so much as its the insane distance or OLM that lulls a lot of the driving public into driving their new vehicle off the lot and not even doing one short interval oil change because the manufacturer doesn't say different and if the dealer follows that logic as well. Selling the rarely needing to be serviced concept seems to go over well with the public that wants to get away with as little as possible for dollars spent on the vehicles maintenance and I bet there are 3.0 engines just like other vehicles out there that never have their oil checked by the owner which goes back to why they probably felt the need to add that extra quart to avoid a costly theme.    Speaking of cutting filters open, it was probably over two years ago now that a youtuber who buys vehicles to do longer term reviews and pulls a fifth wheel through the mountains of Colorado on summer trips and that becomes part of the testing. Anyway he had a GM HD with the 6.6 gas and a Ford 250 with the 7.3 gas at the same time and of no surprise the Ford had more power etc but somewhere along the way in the few thousand miles he put on the truck, he changed the oil and was seeing glitter and cut open the filter and yeah, things were not looking spectacular. The truck about that time or soon after seemed down on power compared to what it had been and then threw some engine code, I expect the cam/lifters were failing and so he brought the truck back to the dealer and made some deal to get out of it as he knew it would sit for months waiting on a new engine as they were so backlogged at the time. He kept the GM for some time after that using it exclusively until he sold it after buying his next vehicle to do a review on. Definitely the filter can tell a story when things are starting to go sideways, but it would be a sickening feeling to cut it open and be faced with an ugly mess like that and be running a magnet through the pleats and the oil on the dirty side of the filter and see all the fines sticking to the magnet.    The dealer may have some ideas based on experience as to where that coolant smell is coming from, I would imagine if they can't find it but its smelling they would put dye in it to they could give it a run cycle and use the black light to see where it pops up, if its a hose connection, water pump, rad or even a head gasket etc. 
    • Good looking truck, suspensionmaxx looks like a solid option
    • Thanks for the info, im considering a leveling kit or 4" lift kit.
    • charm.li (website) has the vehicle-specific diagnostic procedure for that code, you can use to find what the cause of it is.
    • It’s at the point of amusement. I’m retired I have time. It’s fun seeing people try to convince me I’m using oil. I’m buying oil at the prescribed time. It gets drained and new goes in. Do I add in between, no. My oil doesn’t even get dirty in 5k miles. I don’t even see any drop on the stick. I check in the same place. All is well.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...