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Posted

So i read on this website about the 2nd bay knock sensor allowing moisture in and corroding stuff so i took apart everything got to knock sensor and it was dirty. cleaned out put a dam of rtv silicone around it and put everything together. NOW.... i have a chilton manual so i tightened the manifold in the correct sequence. now it did not say anything about how tight. so at the MWR (the place i was working on my truck at) it said 44 lbs/in then go around again at 89lbs/in. they didnt have a torque wrench that went that low so i tried my best. 100lbs/in seemed really loose. now i have a leak from the manifold. can someone please tell me the correct lbs/in to tighten these down to. ALSO my engine has a "knock" noise coming from it now. can someone please give me there best guess on what this is.

THANK YOU SO MUCH, i am supposed to be driving down to anchorage from fairbanks next weekend so i can catch a plane ticket home for leave before deploying do afghanistan here in the near future so any help is so GREATLY appreciated.

BTW I know my grammar and punctuations really suck, i am just really tired and upset and dont care right now lol

Posted

44 and 88 are the correct numbers, did you reuse your seals, they may have been dirty or just dried and cracked, did you connect everything like the pcv and whatnot back to the intake?

Posted
44 and 88 are the correct numbers, did you reuse your seals, they may have been dirty or just dried and cracked, did you connect everything like the pcv and whatnot back to the intake?

 

bought new ones. tomorrow im gonna go buy the more expensive ones and try again and hopefully find out what the knocking noise is, it sounds like what the truck usually sounds like right after you change oil before it fully circulates but no oil leaked or anything

Posted

Nathanael, When they say to apply threadlocker to the bolts do they mean a Teflon like sealant? Or threadlocker as what you get from Permetex? The reason i'm asking is because i've always thought that you couldn't use threadlockers with aluminum (as is the heads). The reason being is that the threads will come out with the bolts if you do.

Posted

Is your torque wrench in in/lbs or ft/lbs if its in in/lbs multiply the number by 12 to get the correct ft/lbs number. If your wrench says 88 in/lbs for example it really would only be 7.33 ft/lbs of torque and not the 88 your looking for

Posted

John, I've done a few engine rebuilds and would recommend the ARP Thread Sealer (Part # 100-9904) for the manifold installation. It is a teflon based leak-proof sealer that is designed for materials including aluminum. Follow the torque sequence I posted earlier and you be just fine. Make sure that ALL traces of the old manifold gasket material are cleaned from the manifold and head surfaces. DO NOT SCRAP! use a cleaning solvent so that you do not scour the surface. If you need a peace of mind, check the bolts a few days later making sure that no abnormalities occured. :lol:

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