Some Strange Things With New Truck

AustinZ71 · February 10, 2011

Out of all of the other New GM trucks/SUVs my family has owned, this is the first one that has some quirks and problems. I will just list them.

These are the ones that are bothering me the most. There are several others that don't bug me as much but still piss me off. Anyway:

1. Back-up warning system - Sometimes it just beeps when going into reverse even if there is nothing behind me. Yesterday it was around 22 degrees and when I went to reverse, instead of a stream of beeps, it was one LOOOOOONG beep then the cluster said there was a problem and it was disabled. I'm guessing it might have just been ice on the sensors. Who knows.

2. Remote Start - When it was in the 18-25 Degree range, the remote start just kind of started trying to crank but took a few seconds then finally kicked off and fired up. The next day, the same temp, I went out to the truck to use the key to start it. It cranked for a few seconds, fired up, then ran REALLY rough then died. I waited a few seconds and tried it again. Started fine and ran fine.

3. Dead Battery Warning - 3 times now, when it's cold out, If I kill the key but leave it in the ACC position, the radio will turn off and the DIC says something to the effect of: "Battery Low Start Ignition" so I start it and it cranks just fine. Weird.

4. Dead spot in accelerator - Yesterday while driving home, I needed to change lanes to pass a slower driver. I kicked it down a little to let the 6.2L breathe fire and death and when I did, it was like I hit the brake hard. It fell flat on it's face for a good 1-2 seconds then caught up a little and took off. It was bad enough that I kind of leaned forward from the momentum coming to a stop.

kdixer · February 10, 2011

Out of all of the other New GM trucks/SUVs my family has owned, this is the first one that has some quirks and problems. I will just list them.

These are the ones that are bothering me the most. There are several others that don't bug me as much but still piss me off. Anyway:

1. Back-up warning system - Sometimes it just beeps when going into reverse even if there is nothing behind me. Yesterday it was around 22 degrees and when I went to reverse, instead of a stream of beeps, it was one LOOOOOONG beep then the cluster said there was a problem and it was disabled. I'm guessing it might have just been ice on the sensors. Who knows.

2. Remote Start - When it was in the 18-25 Degree range, the remote start just kind of started trying to crank but took a few seconds then finally kicked off and fired up. The next day, the same temp, I went out to the truck to use the key to start it. It cranked for a few seconds, fired up, then ran REALLY rough then died. I waited a few seconds and tried it again. Started fine and ran fine.

3. Dead Battery Warning - 3 times now, when it's cold out, If I kill the key but leave it in the ACC position, the radio will turn off and the DIC says something to the effect of: "Battery Low Start Ignition" so I start it and it cranks just fine. Weird.

4. Dead spot in accelerator - Yesterday while driving home, I needed to change lanes to pass a slower driver. I kicked it down a little to let the 6.2L breathe fire and death and when I did, it was like I hit the brake hard. It fell flat on it's face for a good 1-2 seconds then caught up a little and took off. It was bad enough that I kind of leaned forward from the momentum coming to a stop.

I would guess faulty battery for 1 thru 3. Item 4 sounds like a classic case of torque management.

HawkScot · February 10, 2011

Out of all of the other New GM trucks/SUVs my family has owned, this is the first one that has some quirks and problems. I will just list them.

These are the ones that are bothering me the most. There are several others that don't bug me as much but still piss me off. Anyway:

1. Back-up warning system - Sometimes it just beeps when going into reverse even if there is nothing behind me. Yesterday it was around 22 degrees and when I went to reverse, instead of a stream of beeps, it was one LOOOOOONG beep then the cluster said there was a problem and it was disabled. I'm guessing it might have just been ice on the sensors. Who knows.

2. Remote Start - When it was in the 18-25 Degree range, the remote start just kind of started trying to crank but took a few seconds then finally kicked off and fired up. The next day, the same temp, I went out to the truck to use the key to start it. It cranked for a few seconds, fired up, then ran REALLY rough then died. I waited a few seconds and tried it again. Started fine and ran fine.

3. Dead Battery Warning - 3 times now, when it's cold out, If I kill the key but leave it in the ACC position, the radio will turn off and the DIC says something to the effect of: "Battery Low Start Ignition" so I start it and it cranks just fine. Weird.

4. Dead spot in accelerator - Yesterday while driving home, I needed to change lanes to pass a slower driver. I kicked it down a little to let the 6.2L breathe fire and death and when I did, it was like I hit the brake hard. It fell flat on it's face for a good 1-2 seconds then caught up a little and took off. It was bad enough that I kind of leaned forward from the momentum coming to a stop.

I would guess faulty battery for 1 thru 3. Item 4 sounds like a classic case of torque management.

+1, have the battery checked for 2-3. For #1, keep your backup sensors clean. Winter driving tends to get them dirty, just wipe them off regularly. For #4, I found that if you jab the accelerator down, it will hesitate (nanny control for torque mgmt). Instead of jabbing it down, just push it firmly and it will take off like rocket (at least my 08 Yukon XL Denali does).

kdixer · February 10, 2011

Yeah the best way to fight TM other than a tune is to learn how to apply throttle. Do not go straight to WOT. Rapidly push the accelerator to about half throttle, when the truck starts pulling then steadily increase to WOT. It will pull pretty hard if you use this method. If you go from light throttle straight to WOT the GM nannies will pull timing and throttle for a second or 2.

snarkee · February 10, 2011

3. Dead Battery Warning - 3 times now, when it's cold out, If I kill the key but leave it in the ACC position, the radio will turn off and the DIC says something to the effect of: "Battery Low Start Ignition" so I start it and it cranks just fine. Weird.

if i turn the key to ACC at night and the auto headlights come on, my truck displays this messages and kills the radio within 30 seconds

robert83 · February 11, 2011

Had the #3 issue, took it to the dealer and they tested the battery. All good on the battery. They replaced it as a "just in case" measure.

Issue still occurs.

Try this one for fun. Radio is supposed to turn off when you open your door.

Open passenger door, lean in and start the truck. Turn the radio on. Turn off the truck and the radio keeps playing. Close the passenger door and the radio keeps playing. Radio will not turn off until you either use the radio button or go open and close the driver door.

JoeyH · February 11, 2011

The radio shuts off when the driver side door is opened or after 20 minute countdown regardless if the driver's door is breached. The radio interrupt is only for the driver side door. No cutout for passenger side door or any rear doors. All of my GM vehicles have been set up this way since 2001 model year. It's detailed in the user manuals under the radio section. Power windows are interrupted when any door is breached to my recollection of yelling at my other half to leave the door shut until I get the windows up.

Joe

hrspwr · February 11, 2011

The radio shuts off when the driver side door is opened or after 20 minute countdown regardless if the driver's door is breached. The radio interrupt is only for the driver side door. No cutout for passenger side door or any rear doors. All of my GM vehicles have been set up this way since 2001 model year. It's detailed in the user manuals under the radio section. Power windows are interrupted when any door is breached to my recollection of yelling at my other half to leave the door shut until I get the windows up.

Joe

My radio shuts off when any door opens as are the power windows.

jro909 · February 11, 2011

take it to the dealer thats why you have a warranty...i know it can light the fuse when you drop big bucks on a new ride but keep in mind that everything made by humans has flaws

VVT · February 11, 2011

**edit** its bottom end gains from cam advance and top end gains from cam retard sorry**

Its not just torque managment that causes the delay when trying to get on it while cruising its also the VVT. VVT ( variable valve timing ) is technically a "power adder" in the sense that bottom end torque gains from cam retardation and top end power gains from cam advance which VVT does provide BUT... GM doesnt use it for that primarily its there for fuel efficiency. How does variable valve timing create better fuel efficiency? Quite simply by positioning the cam timing such that it allows the engine to run with as little cysilnder pressure as possible. The only thing this does is allows the engine to spin with less resisitance and this effect is what gives the slight boost in ful mileage that VVT adds which is not much its around 1 or 2mpg. So when you go to romp on it at highway speeds where torque managment doesnt have much impact ( mainly a slow speed device to limit instantanious torque shock on drivetrain parts to prevent breakage ) so as I was saying at highway speeds when you romp on it the cam timing is so far off where it should be for power production ( like 20-30 degress off ) it takes more than a few moments to spin the cam back and build cylinder pressure and thats the "bog" effect your speaking of.

So now the good news... If you get a tuner whe understands VVT and how to tune it rather than have it so that your truck is set up for peak effeciency you can tune the VVT system to have throttle response that you have never experienced before. VVT is a great thing to have but the way GM uses it doesnt really do much for performance unless you floor it in which case they have it set to gain a "little" but under the curve in lower RPM'S there is a LOT of power and response to be had by tuning you phaser properly. Word of caution though with every phase change you make you also have to adjust the fuel and spark to match so its not exactly a newbie type thing. Seek out a good tuner and thank me later.

tonygxp · February 12, 2011

take it to the dealer thats why you have a warranty...i know it can light the fuse when you drop big bucks on a new ride but keep in mind that everything made by humans has flaws

My Yukon started doing the #3 issue as well. I had the battery tested, fine, holds a load within spec. so i charged it for a couple hours at the shop and issue hasn't resurfaced, OR i haven't checked it the same way it came on before.. I think once the batt volts drop below 12.5 it just does it automatically, and since having the accessories on plus the DRL's when key is on, it drops quick.. Mine also NEVER gave me a slow crank after that warning..