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Military Wheels On A 1987 Chevy 4x4


DOS989

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Posted

Hey guys

I'm a newbie, beware of stupid questions

I browsed through (but not extensively) and didn't see anything that directly hit the topic, so here's what I got:

My truck is a 1987 Chevrolet Custom Deluxe model V10 (that's just model, not engine size)

It may help to say exactly what I'm doing so I'll include ALL of the details. I'm putting on a Superlift 8" Master lift kit (the 4 spring deal, no cheapie block-up system)

Since I'm trying to be budget conscious (and go for a unique look at the same time) I went for some Military 12-bolt wheels. Obviously, that's gonna require an adapter since my hubs have a 6x5.5 lug pattern and the wheels have a 8x6.5 lug pattern. Here's where I need some help, because I really don't wanna go guessing then have to buy more spacers or have the adapters turned down shorter - What I'm gonna get done is to have the adapters also be the spacers, but I needa know pretty close to exact how thick they need to be to bring that military wheel out to the same place the current rims are, otherwise I think they may be so far tucked under I cant mount them.

"But why didn't you just get tires that fit your current rims?"

Because 37x12.5R15 tires cost half as much as the entire truck, and that's too much for tires. I'm thinking about the future too - big tires are usually made of soft rubber and wear quickly on the road, and the size rim I'm getting is great for low cost 37" tires because there's a lot of surplus of those.

"But why didn't you get rims that fit the tire you want?"

Because I'll spend more custom ordering 16.5 inch rims and buying wheels than I did buying mounted and balanced tires on military rims with runflats already installed.

So, what have I got exactly? Well, here's my wheel/rim combo (already purchased):

Click here to see - these are whats being shipped to me

And here's what they're going on (lift kit hasn't been installed yet):

1987ChevFull.png

So what I needa do is find out how thick I should have this adapter made, since its custom order anyway I can get it in whatever I specify, but I'm not sure. Can anyone help me out with that? The adapters will be 2" thick just because that's what it takes to make them, but I'm thinking 4" will set the military wheel about where the edge of my current rims sit, but not sure. If that's too short, I'll have to buy spacers. If it's too long, I'll have to get them machined down. So I wanna get as close as possible. Also, I'm not sure if the guy knows exactly what bore I'll need to clear automatic hubs and everything properly (I guess he does) but it would be great if soemone could tell me that too, because I don't know. Any help would be much appreciated! The guy is already waiting on me, I'm hoping the right person finds me fast! Thanks!!

Posted

If thats how the truck looks currently, do not touch a thing!

 

If i had a truck of that year / body style / shape in my area i would buy it so fast!

Posted

I'm keeping all original parts to the truck, but it looks that nice because of what I've added so far. Just leaving it as it sat, it wouldn't look that way. But if soemone wants the stock suspension I'll still have it, and the lift I'm putting on it doesn't require any modifications that can't be undone with a few bolts and nuts. I'm going the high quality route with 4 springs and everything needed to make it easier on the steering and suspension. I may not even add the lift but I could use some much less expensive tires and the 37x12.50xR16.5 tires are way cheaper than most any other kind of that size. And I sure don't wanna go smaller. This route with the military wheels works great and is cost effective, so I really need to know about how thick those adapters needa be... If you know or know soemone who knows can you ask them? I would really appreciate it.

 

Also, this thing is sorta for sale, if prospectors aren't planning to make it a mud runner or running it ragged. PM if interested.

Until then, I'm taking care of it as if I'll drive it forever, and I wanna try out a higher stance. It'll serve more than for just looks. Sitting up high has many advantages in many aspects besides looks or off-roading. Plus the tire thing... the ones I'm going to are much less expensive and have some size over the old ones to boot.

Posted

The easiest way to do it is wait 'till the new rims come in and measure the difference, way less guessing that way.

 

And as stated above, you seem to me to have the perfect sized tires/lift for your truck as pictured.

Posted

I think the opinions on that may vary anyways, but its a question of when and not if. I'd like to get as much taken care of as soon as possible to avoid a long strung out project and making people wait. The wheels are squared off, lift kit is on order, mechanic agreed to put it on, and a person waiting on me to tell him how thick to make the adapters. I'm pretty sure soemone here knows the offset of stock Chevy wheels vs these military wheels... the military wheels are pretty standard, but unfortunately I don't know what the offset is. Some guy told me those wheels I ordered have an offset of zero but offset is measured from the center of the wheel right? Wouldn't that mean the offset is positive?

Posted

Pretty truck man! To hell with the military tires, save your money and put some swampers on it!!!

 

 

EDIT: Did i mention that is a gorgeous truck!?!?

Posted

I wouldn't do it. It looks good the way it is. i woulld put a mild lift and tires and use factory wheels. Military tires and whees wouldn't look good.

Posted

What I'm saying is the tires I have now cost $1200 per set and the tires I'm going get to cost $300 per set (but only in the the size I mentioned, 37x12.50R16.5). Lets do some math on that. This is a daily driver, and since I spend 95% of the time on hot asphalt, how is that gonna leave me on cost of tires? You don't just wear mud tires down to 30% like normal road tires or they look terrible, so that means I'll get about 15000 miles per set if I stuck with the ones I got now. That's too much for tires, and if I'm not going to drive that truck because the expense in tires, then I just wasted all the time I've spent restoring it. I don't have the time or money to own a 4x4 I'm not going to drive.

And those 37s need more clearance - a 4 spring lift kit of any height cost about the same up to about 8", the difference is negligible. Why not give myself better visibility (for me and other drivers) if there's only a small difference in price?

Posted

I have been in the Army for over 21 years as a wheeled mechanic. The tires you are talking about are issue military for the HUMVEE. The Military grade tire are softer and you will not get the same wear milage as a normal tire. My fleet of constant driving I would replace the set of tires anywhere from 5000 to 1000 miles. These tires were not designed to be on the road. With the lift you are talking about the truck will look good with the black military wheels and tires.

Posted

+1

 

We do not get good mileage from the MT series rubber in the Marines either. Very soft compound meant to be offroad. I can get you your spec when I go into work tomorrow though.

Posted
but it looks that nice because of what I've added so far. Just leaving it as it sat, it wouldn't look that way.

 

Also, this thing is sorta for sale, if prospectors aren't planning to make it a mud runner or running it ragged. PM if interested.

 

 

Exactly.. you added on the right stuff allready to make it look outstanding!

 

Where are you located? I would seriously consider this truck as a toy for me... :)

Posted
+1

 

We do not get good mileage from the MT series rubber in the Marines either. Very soft compound meant to be offroad. I can get you your spec when I go into work tomorrow though.

 

The tires on it now are MT rubber, as are most of the "low cost" (read $300 per) tires. Road tires in the 37 size are usually either very high or not produced. In 33" are still high. I'm not even sure if radials go up to the lesser sizes. I like the aggressive tread of MTs though, really helps out in the winter here, so whatever tire I go to should also be aggressive tread.

And yes I would appreciate some info on the wheels, thanks.

  • 5 months later...
Posted

Thanks for everyone's replies and suggestions. What I finally ended up doing was finding a set of vintage 16.5" aluminum mags with 6-bolt Chevy pattern and correct backspacing, then painting them metallic dark gray (wouldn't have looked too good without the paint, "vintage aluminum"). The wheels are still lug-centric but use the extended shaft type. I took the tires off the military rims and put them on the mags. The lift is a Superlift K424 Master Kit 8" all-spring (no blocks or add-leafs). The ride seems to be slightly better and I haven't seen much change (if any) on gas mileage - the BFG 33" MTs seem to be less easy to roll, I suspect the additional torque needed for the circumference of the 37" Goodyears is countered by the ease in which they roll on the pavement. Visibility (for me looking out) is better and I suppose other people see me better as well, I've noticed less people tailgating me or jumping out from stop signs. Going to get the assembled tires & wheels balanced tomorrow, that'll probably take care of the slight vibration at 50mph. I think the end result is pretty decent. Thanks again all for your replies, any additional suggestions I would be happy to hear.

 

Should be a picture somewhere on this message...

 

1987ChevFull2.png

Posted

WOW..... dude that is one of the best looking trucks i have ever seen. Very nice job :)

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