Jump to content

4l60-e Upgrades And Maintance


Recommended Posts

Posted

Finished my intake and exhaust mods so moving onto transmission and wrapping it all up with a BB tune. I want to get a 2nd gear servo and 4th gear servo but cant decide which ones. I will be ordering it from Oregon performance so i just need to know what i should get. The corvette servo is only $17 then theirs a superior billet servo for $88 with 18% more apply pressure then the corvette servo and a sonnax 2nd gear super hold for $112 that has 35% more apply pressure then the corvette. I want the firmest shift without damaging the transmission since i just passed 75000mi. The sonnax fourth gear servo is $99 and the superior billet servo is $71 and its is supposed to help the 4-3 shift. Im thinking the corvette servo might not be enough so i would probably get the superior 2nd and 4th gear servos. Just looking for some feedback. A shift kit just changes what rpm you shift at so the BB tune can do the same thing? I'm overdo for fluid changes how hard is it to change the differential, transfer case and transmission fluid and filter?and what part numbers in Canada for fluids and filter?

Thanks

Posted

Not expert but I do a lot of reading,,,they say a good tune is better than the Corvette servo and the other one..These parts were made before the trans become Electronic and continued because it is cheap mode $17 and easy to install. The tune will do exactly what the servo will do plus the other stuff & it's Electronic mode which you can remove in a few minutes...Like you, I want a more reliable trans and read a lot of posts about these mods.

Posted

actually, being electronic doesn't matter. it is different. The servos physically change the apply points/ surface area. You can simulate it with a tune by raising pressures, but it's much healthier to physically do it with hard parts.

 

a shift kit does not change shift points (rpm). that is all electronically controlled by the trucks computer. A shift kit will once again physically change how the fluid moves through the transmission to achieve shift firmness and quickness (how fast the shift takes place).

 

I want the firmest shift without damaging the transmission since i just passed 75000mi.

keep in mind, you are looking at parts that are designed for high horsepower and drag racing applications.

Transmissions set up for these applications are NOT something you would want an 80 yr old grandmother riding in, it can be quite unpleasant. I've driven a 4L60e built by Finish Line Transmissions (back in their prime a few years ago), it was a Level 5, it wasn't for everyone. This trans had all the bells and whistles, we chose to go with a vacuum modulator which greatly helped with pulling tuning out of the equation for certain shift properties - but this was on a 6.0L swap/ cam/ stalled/ headers/ etc. truck.

 

All of these parts have to be chosen and setup correctly to make a comfortable daily driver. Even with that said, comfortable is relative to the person in the vehicle. I can't tell you what is best for YOU. but, I will say that your "intake and exhaust" is a lightly modified vehicle, really you should see improvement with the Corvette Servo and the lower of the upgraded of the 4th gear is all you will ever need and will still be tolerable.

Posted

I would get the 17 dollar corvette servo for sure. If you have the money look into the Billet 4th gear servo too. The corvette servo only affects 1-2 and 2-3. So the 4th gear servo is a nice addition but not necessary. I only did the corvette servo with the BlackBear tune. My take on the servos is they always give you the same kind of shift, but if you only increase line pressure the shifts can be different (sometimes harder than other times). So a servo is worth it to me over just a tune.

 

Also Justin can make your transmission shift however you like so I wouldn't spend a bunch of money on servos.

 

I dropped my pan and changed the filter, then added 5 qts of ATF. You can do a full flush also after the filter change.

Posted

4wd, if the Vette servo is for "pre-electronic" stuff why did my Roadmaster(wagon with woodgrain don't get any more grandma than that) with 4L60E come with one??

 

That should also make a point about how mild the Vette servo is too. They used it stock on all the LT1 cars in the 90s, meaning Fleetwoods, Roadmasters, Caprices. It is a good piece. IMO the whole reason these trucks did not get them is because most people think it is a problem to feel a shift. It is by no means harsh but you can feel the shift.

 

IMO I would call someone like Dana at ProBuilt Automatics and get his opinion and buy the part from him, because the technical support is worth every penny.

He built the tranny for my street/strip Caprice, tranny is over 7 years old, 480+hp for the last 5+ years. Has stock servos, which for that car means a Vette servo.

 

I would also figure out the tranny end BEFORE calling Black Bear as what you do here will affect what he does.

Posted

I have a Corvette servo in my 4L60E and I WOULD NOT want anything firmer than that for day-to-day driving. When I had my tranny rebuilt I had them throw the Corvette servo in there and, in all honesty, I wish I had just gone to stock. Trust me, anything firmer will be unpleasant on a day to day basis. And don't think I'm some old fart, I'm only 20 years old.

Posted

well im definitely getting the corvette servo then but should i get the sonnax fourth gear servo or the superior billet servo and its supposed to help the 4-3 shift and costs less too. Does the sonnax help the 4-3 shift?

Posted
I have a Corvette servo in my 4L60E and I WOULD NOT want anything firmer than that for day-to-day driving. When I had my tranny rebuilt I had them throw the Corvette servo in there and, in all honesty, I wish I had just gone to stock. Trust me, anything firmer will be unpleasant on a day to day basis. And don't think I'm some old fart, I'm only 20 years old.

 

It was in the tuning or the rest of the rebuild. As I said above grandma's Roadmaster came with the Vette servo. If it was used in the Roadmaster, Fleetwood, Caprice etc. it is not the source of your harsh shifts.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,837
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    bellssn690
    Newest Member
    bellssn690
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 544 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  
    • Those can be high, as well as the big California cities. The ones that will pop your eyes out are the 395 corridor on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas. Lee Vining, $7.19 for regular and $8.89 for diesel is what the Google said right now.
    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...