Jump to content

No Choice Of Wheel Size


Recommended Posts

Posted
Snappy comebacks but not many answers. Car manufacturers are nickel and diming us with waste of time increases that are useless and not giving us any choice. If you want 16", 17", 18", 20" tires then you can buy them. 15" tires work fine and always have. Plus they're cheaper and it's not because of availability...it's because they use less material. You're letting car manufacturers tell you what to do AND with NO explanation. If the bigger tires are because of bigger brake rotors and drums for safety then all vehicles with smaller tires should be outlawed...since they're not safe. That explanation doesn't hold water either. It's car manufacturers sneakily stealing our money for something we don't need. If you don't mind the extra cash...then buy my tires.

 

 

I wouldnt say they "make me" do anything. Buy a new truck, take an old rear end out of an old chevy, "custom" fit early 90's knuckles on the front and put your 15's on the truck, your will have more money into that but if you keep the truck for 20 yrs you might make out. If you do not like the 17-20+ options available now then do not but one, but you really have no right to complain, you choose to buy or not. No one twists your arm to sign.... drive an 86 chevy with a tbi 350 getting 8-10 mpg and you can have your 15" wheels also.

 

Bigger wheels means bigger brakes and better cooler plain and simple. Im speaking to a 17" which is stock on new trucks. Anything bigger is in an option package and apparently you dont want anything over a basic truck motor, body, 4 wheels.

 

Your not buying bigger tires, your buying a tire of the same size for a bigger wheel. Also you must not understand what your eyes see..... a bigger wheel means less rubber. Again a 33" tire on a 15 compared to a 33" tire on a 17.... the 17(which your not paying extra for since its stock) use a hell of a lot less rubber.... HOW CAN YOU NOT SEE THAT?

 

Its also not that the vehicles with the smaller brakes are "not safe". The fact is they try to do more with less... In the economy materials are dimishing. So most brake systems are using less over all material and sometime the over all dimensions might be larger. Bigger brakes doesnt mean more material, just different compositions of materials. The larger wheels are not tight to the calipers and rotors so heat disapates faster. Maybe ive been around cars to long but thats just common sense.

 

The vehicles with the smaller less adequate brakes are just that. Less adaquate or less efficient. Greater stopping distances more drag on the motor powering the booster etc........(which apparently you wont understand)

 

I also checked several tires and you 30-40$ difference between a 15 and 16 is WRONG.... Example go to NTWONLINE.com and check out BFG(expensive brand) rugged trail ta's, its barely $10's a tire more moving up from 15 to 16's in a respective size. I looked at 31/1050/15 and 265/70/16 and another 10 (which is a total of 20 per tire) if you go to a 265/65/17 which is an odd ball tire. More common is 255/70/17 and its the same price as the 16" equivelant i said. This happens with many tire brands....

 

Your absolutley right that we don't "need" it. It they never changed and all vehicles were the same then their would be no problem maybe. However people like new and different. People make money inventing, customizing etc...

 

In all honesty, no matter what i say your not going to get it or understand. Your opinion was made up longer before you started this topic. Therefore I will leave it at this and do my best not to continue on the argument.

 

Its your choice to which vehicle your purchase and drive. If your worried over a couple hundred bucks max between a 15" and 17" wheel then you shouldn't be driving a truck. Trucks are expensive. Trade it in on a small car, get better mpg's, tires will be much much cheaper and may be a 15" wheel (since you like that size).

 

You cant put a 15" or 16" wheel on an nbs or nnbs truck without some sort of modification or special backspacing to the wheel . In turn, you are going to spend money (more than $100) to try and save at most $70-150 depending on the tire you chose. If you buy an obs your gonna spend more money in gas than you will EVER spend in tires...

 

I have to quit now.... to irritated by your stupid @$ theory.

 

 

Looks like you had trouble with math in high school.

Posted
Snappy comebacks but not many answers. Car manufacturers are nickel and diming us with waste of time increases that are useless and not giving us any choice. If you want 16", 17", 18", 20" tires then you can buy them. 15" tires work fine and always have. Plus they're cheaper and it's not because of availability...it's because they use less material. You're letting car manufacturers tell you what to do AND with NO explanation. If the bigger tires are because of bigger brake rotors and drums for safety then all vehicles with smaller tires should be outlawed...since they're not safe. That explanation doesn't hold water either. It's car manufacturers sneakily stealing our money for something we don't need. If you don't mind the extra cash...then buy my tires.

 

You've got conspiracy issues man. Your explanation doesn't hold water. Manufacturers are customer driven and "most" people like the look of the bigger wheels and that's why they do it. If they didn't make vehicles people liked or wanted, they would be out of business real fast.

 

If you don't like the wheels on your truck, then go buy another vehicle that suites your taste. If you want to modify your current vehicle to fit 15" wheels, then go for it. Where there's a will, there's a way. But if your complaint is just because your cheap, then do it somewhere else.

Posted
Snappy comebacks but not many answers. Car manufacturers are nickel and diming us with waste of time increases that are useless and not giving us any choice. If you want 16", 17", 18", 20" tires then you can buy them. 15" tires work fine and always have. Plus they're cheaper and it's not because of availability...it's because they use less material. You're letting car manufacturers tell you what to do AND with NO explanation. If the bigger tires are because of bigger brake rotors and drums for safety then all vehicles with smaller tires should be outlawed...since they're not safe. That explanation doesn't hold water either. It's car manufacturers sneakily stealing our money for something we don't need. If you don't mind the extra cash...then buy my tires.

 

 

I wouldnt say they "make me" do anything. Buy a new truck, take an old rear end out of an old chevy, "custom" fit early 90's knuckles on the front and put your 15's on the truck, your will have more money into that but if you keep the truck for 20 yrs you might make out. If you do not like the 17-20+ options available now then do not but one, but you really have no right to complain, you choose to buy or not. No one twists your arm to sign.... drive an 86 chevy with a tbi 350 getting 8-10 mpg and you can have your 15" wheels also.

 

Bigger wheels means bigger brakes and better cooler plain and simple. Im speaking to a 17" which is stock on new trucks. Anything bigger is in an option package and apparently you dont want anything over a basic truck motor, body, 4 wheels.

 

Your not buying bigger tires, your buying a tire of the same size for a bigger wheel. Also you must not understand what your eyes see..... a bigger wheel means less rubber. Again a 33" tire on a 15 compared to a 33" tire on a 17.... the 17(which your not paying extra for since its stock) use a hell of a lot less rubber.... HOW CAN YOU NOT SEE THAT?

 

Its also not that the vehicles with the smaller brakes are "not safe". The fact is they try to do more with less... In the economy materials are dimishing. So most brake systems are using less over all material and sometime the over all dimensions might be larger. Bigger brakes doesnt mean more material, just different compositions of materials. The larger wheels are not tight to the calipers and rotors so heat disapates faster. Maybe ive been around cars to long but thats just common sense.

 

The vehicles with the smaller less adequate brakes are just that. Less adaquate or less efficient. Greater stopping distances more drag on the motor powering the booster etc........(which apparently you wont understand)

 

I also checked several tires and you 30-40$ difference between a 15 and 16 is WRONG.... Example go to NTWONLINE.com and check out BFG(expensive brand) rugged trail ta's, its barely $10's a tire more moving up from 15 to 16's in a respective size. I looked at 31/1050/15 and 265/70/16 and another 10 (which is a total of 20 per tire) if you go to a 265/65/17 which is an odd ball tire. More common is 255/70/17 and its the same price as the 16" equivelant i said. This happens with many tire brands....

 

Your absolutley right that we don't "need" it. It they never changed and all vehicles were the same then their would be no problem maybe. However people like new and different. People make money inventing, customizing etc...

 

In all honesty, no matter what i say your not going to get it or understand. Your opinion was made up longer before you started this topic. Therefore I will leave it at this and do my best not to continue on the argument.

 

Its your choice to which vehicle your purchase and drive. If your worried over a couple hundred bucks max between a 15" and 17" wheel then you shouldn't be driving a truck. Trucks are expensive. Trade it in on a small car, get better mpg's, tires will be much much cheaper and may be a 15" wheel (since you like that size).

 

You cant put a 15" or 16" wheel on an nbs or nnbs truck without some sort of modification or special backspacing to the wheel . In turn, you are going to spend money (more than $100) to try and save at most $70-150 depending on the tire you chose. If you buy an obs your gonna spend more money in gas than you will EVER spend in tires...

 

I have to quit now.... to irritated by your stupid @$ theory.

 

 

Looks like you had trouble with math in high school.

 

 

Please explain how my math is wrong?

  • 1 month later...
Posted
Snappy comebacks but not many answers. Car manufacturers are nickel and diming us with waste of time increases that are useless and not giving us any choice. If you want 16", 17", 18", 20" tires then you can buy them. 15" tires work fine and always have. Plus they're cheaper and it's not because of availability...it's because they use less material. You're letting car manufacturers tell you what to do AND with NO explanation. If the bigger tires are because of bigger brake rotors and drums for safety then all vehicles with smaller tires should be outlawed...since they're not safe. That explanation doesn't hold water either. It's car manufacturers sneakily stealing our money for something we don't need. If you don't mind the extra cash...then buy my tires.

 

You've got conspiracy issues man. Your explanation doesn't hold water. Manufacturers are customer driven and "most" people like the look of the bigger wheels and that's why they do it. If they didn't make vehicles people liked or wanted, they would be out of business real fast.

 

If you don't like the wheels on your truck, then go buy another vehicle that suites your taste. If you want to modify your current vehicle to fit 15" wheels, then go for it. Where there's a will, there's a way. But if your complaint is just because your cheap, then do it somewhere else.

 

:cheers:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...