2002 4L60E rebuild with some issues......

Hammer Down · November 11, 2011

2002 Sierra 4.3 w/ 4L60e trans.

This is my first auto rebuild

I had originally lost 2nd gear and then I lost 4th gear. I rode with 1st and 3rd for a few weeks before I got around to replacing the fluid/filter and shift solenoids only to still have the issue.

I ordered this rebuild kit. Since the research I did on the issue could have been several things (sun shell, sun gear, 2-4 band, servo, ect) I decided to replace everything I could when I was in there.

During the rebuild (and not being a knowlegdable transmission tech) I couldn't seem to see any sign of reason to why I lost 2-4 gears. Well, everything in there looked like it was in excellent shape. No metal in the pan, gears,clutches, seals all looked fairly new (for my first look inside an automatic). I went by the book on the rebuild as well as the installation of the shift kit. Taking my time and double checking every step. (So I thought)

Upon reinstalling the transmission and dumping 10qts in proir to start up, when I did start the truck the motor had a strain on it like it didnt want to stay running. After a minute of running it started to act normal. Then I proceeded to check the fluid and the dip stick was almost full to the top of the tube. The pump was not circulating the fluid (I assumed). I let it run for about 5 minutes longer then I tried to test Reverse and nothing, Drive and nothing, 1st and nothing, ect. I then realized I had broke the rotor in the pump. So I removed the transmission again and yes I broke the rotor:

And the pan after the first removal:

Since I had the transmission out I decided to pull everything back out and inspect it since I had ran it with no circulation of the fluid. Everything seemed to look ok until I found this:

Which is 654c in the skematic in the input clutch housing

So moving along I reassembled everything and reinstalled the transmission for the second time now :pain: I started the truck up and it had a slight strain on the engine causing the headlights to dim due to lower RPM's. Well that went away after a minute of running and I checked the fluid and well I got the TC right this time. So backing out the garage I had reverse!! So putting it in drive for the first time I took off real easy. First gear then shifted to second gear (slightly harder shift then before the rebuild/shift kit). Second gear rev'd up to 3K rpm and then it just broke, as in it dropped off like it was in neutral or slipping. It never went to 3rd gear. So once it slipped out of 2nd and it went back to first gear it never would shift back to 2nd gear. Just stayed in first gear. I brought the truck back home and called it a night.

The next morning I went out for another test drive, shifted from 1-2 and then the same thing happened. So I proceed to pull the plug on the harness to run the truck in default. In DRIVE there was no 3rd gear, it was in first gear. Manual shifting I could get 1st and 2nd gear and they function well. At WOT it will still not shift from 1-2 with the harness plugged up.

So I pull a code from the CEL and I get the DTC P0741 which is the TCC. But from the research I have done even with the TCC being faulty (could be several reasons why it tripped the PCM) that should not effect me from shifting into 3rd gear/OD

Right now I have reverse and only when the truck is cold I have 1st and 2nd gear until it warms up then I only have 1st and reverse.

I am giving in and finally posting for some help! I am at a loss on what to do, what to check, and really not looking forward to pulling the transmission back off again Maybe someone with more experience than me can chime in. And help me out.

Stephenspann27 · November 11, 2011

Just curious if you replaced your TC... I know it is best practice to do so when rebuilding a tranny...

Hammer Down · November 11, 2011

I wanted to replace it but there just wasnt enough money left over for it. It broke me buying the tools and kit.

txab · November 11, 2011

So how much money have you spent so far on this "rebuild"?

Hammer Down · November 11, 2011

kit was 350 that included the sun shell and shift kit, ect

rotor parts was 50

fluid was 85

new filter/pan gasket 15.00

about 250 in tools.

So around 650.00. Almost the cost of a reman one.

:facepalm:

Carder09 · November 11, 2011

Well for the money you spent, your still out cheaper than a rebuilt one, especially if you. did or decide on using performance parts. Add a grand or more and that's a rebuilt tranny installed with warranty at a shop.

gmtech4 · November 11, 2011

wow,

you really ****ed that rebuild up

now you should take it in to a tranny shop and never do this again,you saved no money at all "doin it yourself"

the tranny has to be gone thru again,internet will not help you..

i had the same thing on my hoist up north,a guy bought a SRTA and put it in himself it never turned a tire because of the TC not seated in pump ,it looked alot like your did.

another guy tried the same thing and put a rag in the T case adaptor because SRTA come with oil,he forgot to remove the rag and 30K KM later the rag disintigrated and made its way thru the drain hole and plugged up the filter and cratered the tranny

good luck

Stephenspann27 · November 11, 2011

wow,

you really ****ed that rebuild up

now you should take it in to a tranny shop and never do this again,you saved no money at all "doin it yourself"

the tranny has to be gone thru again,internet will not help you..

i had the same thing on my hoist up north,a guy bought a SRTA and put it in himself it never turned a tire because of the TC not seated in pump ,it looked alot like your did.

another guy tried the same thing and put a rag in the T case adaptor because SRTA come with oil,he forgot to remove the rag and 30K KM later the rag disintigrated and made its way thru the drain hole and plugged up the filter and cratered the tranny

good luck

I thought this.. but didn't want to say it.. Speaking as someone who is also on a tight budget with some technical know how, I might have attempted the rebuild myself as well. I admire you for trying it. It is very possible that you could have gotten it right on the first try.. and you would have had a bunch of "free" tools to boot. It feels better to accomplish things on your own, save money, learn a new skill all at once.

Hammer Down · November 12, 2011

I pulled the transmission back off the truck and started to disassemble it again. I noticed the very bottom teflon oil seal on the input shaft was cut in half and missing a very tiny piece once I pulled the pump out. This could be due to be not having the correct tool to install those rings. Then i pulled the input housing out and then air checked it again and it functions but I did not check the clearances because I could not locate the required spacing. I disassembled the housing and did not notice anything else damaged. The stator tube was fine.

txab · November 12, 2011

I pulled the transmission back off the truck and started to disassemble it again. I noticed the very bottom teflon oil seal on the input shaft was cut in half and missing a very tiny piece once I pulled the pump out. This could be due to be not having the correct tool to install those rings. Then i pulled the input housing out and then air checked it again and it functions but I did not check the clearances because I could not locate the required spacing. I disassembled the housing and did not notice anything else damaged. The stator tube was fine.

Clearly it's time for you to take to someone who is qualified to rebuild it. Time is money and you've wasted plenty of time and money so far

Stephenspann27 · November 12, 2011

I pulled the transmission back off the truck and started to disassemble it again. I noticed the very bottom teflon oil seal on the input shaft was cut in half and missing a very tiny piece once I pulled the pump out. This could be due to be not having the correct tool to install those rings. Then i pulled the input housing out and then air checked it again and it functions but I did not check the clearances because I could not locate the required spacing. I disassembled the housing and did not notice anything else damaged. The stator tube was fine.

I would say.. if you are feeling confident and you have no money for someone else to look at it.. buy the correct tool for the seal and 3rd times a charm.

Hammer Down · November 12, 2011

I am going to a shop Monday morning to get the seals installed on the input shaft. I will be finishing out the since I am so close to having it right and theres really no need in paying someone (even more money) to go through the whole trans again. Only place I went wrong was not having that tool, hard lesson learned but on the next one I'm sure it will be easier. Oh ya and the bad install from the TC not being seated.

On a plus side I can get the trans out in about an hour by myself now.

Stephenspann27 · November 12, 2011

I am going to a shop Monday morning to get the seals installed on the input shaft. I will be finishing out the since I am so close to having it right and theres really no need in paying someone (even more money) to go through the whole trans again. Only place I went wrong was not having that tool, hard lesson learned but on the next one I'm sure it will be easier. Oh ya and the bad install from the TC not being seated.

On a plus side I can get the trans out in about an hour by myself now.

That's awesome, and now you have a back up profession :-D

Easytide · November 12, 2011

Almost looks the TQ wasnt properly seated (hafta have that ole "doube click" when psotioning the TQ on the shaft. The clutches look to me (and yup,hard to say on the internet) that the wave steel was either in the wrong position in the stack or clearance between the plates wasnt sufficient. (it,s ok to stack em "tight" to improve shift time,at least it was in the old days...but no clearance is disaaterous. Again....kinda just guessing from yer pics.

Hammer Down · November 14, 2011

Ok, after putting the trans back together and verifying that the 3-4 clutch pack was installed correctly and checked the clearances. As well as air checking everything and recleaning of the transmission.

When I test drove the transmission was doing the same thing but this time throwing DTC P0757 (solenoid B stuck on). I did some research and found this:

Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
• An illuminated MIL where DTC P0757 is found as a history code in the PCM or TCM;

• No third and fourth gear;

• The transmission does not shift correctly;

• The transmission feels like it shifts to Neutral or a loss of drive occurs; and/or

• The vehicle free wheels above 30 mph. High rpm needed to overcome the free wheeling.

This condition may be caused by any of the following:

• Chips or debris plugging the bleed orifice of the 2-3 shift solenoid (367). This will cause the transmission to stay in second gear when third gear is commanded and return to first gear when fourth gear is commanded.

• A 2-3 shift valve (368) or 2-3 shuttle valve (369) that is stuck, restricted and/or hung-up in its bore.

This condition may also be an indication of a damaged 2-4 band or 3-4 clutches. This clutch damage may generate debris causing the 2-3 shift valve line-up to stick in the valve body bore and set DTC P0757.

1. Inspect the condition of the transmission fluid for signs of overheat or a burnt odor. If either is noted, the transmission should be disassembled for further investigation and repaired as needed.

See Figure 1.

2. Inspect the inside of the oil pan for signs of clutch friction material. A small amount of friction material in the bottom of the pan is normal. If a large amount of clutch material is noted in the fluid or bottom pan, the transmission should be disassembled for further investigation and repaired as needed.

3. Inspect and clean the 2-3 shift valve (368), the 2-3 shuttle valve (369) and the valve bore of debris/ metal chips.

4. Inspect and clean the 2-3 shift solenoid (367B) opening of debris/metal chips. While inspecting the 2-3 shift solenoid (367B), look for a screen over the solenoid opening. If the solenoid does not have a screen, replace the solenoid. All current GMSPO stock shift solenoids have a screen over the solenoid opening.

5. If clutch debris is found, it is also important to inspect the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve fluid screens. Clean or replace the PC solenoid as necessary. It is also important to flush and flow-check the transmission oil cooler using J 45096.

Refer to SI “Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test” for the procedure.

Just for shit and giggles I went ahead and replaced the solenoid and pulled the 2-3 shuttle valve out and cleaned the bore. Reinstalled the pan and test drove it only to have the same exact thing happen.

I have gone through the valve body with a tooth pick, the gaskets are the correct gaskets, all 7 check balls are in the correct locations. The forward accumulator is installed correctly.

I dont see how I could have burnt up the clutches on 3-4 with less than 5 miles on them. I also dont know what the hell is going on to stop it from shifting to third.

Video of the test ride after I got it all back together (before the solenoid replacement)