Jump to content

How to hook up radio cut out for reverse


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am getting an 06 chevrolet 1/2 ton for my employee that for all the times I tell him he refuses to turn the radio down before backing up.. (He is a great employee but not a good driver)

Is there such an item to set up the radio to be cut out when you shift the truck into reverse?

Maybe off the wiring for the back up lights.

Any help would be great.

Posted

Grab a relay from an autoparts store with NO and NC contacts and use the NC contacts. Wire the coil into the reverse light circuit. Use the NC contacts in series with the power lead for the radio. When truck is in reverse = no power to radio. Total cost less than $10, plus your time.

Posted

Thank you! Could you please let me know in a little more detail how to do this? Or should I leave it to a professional?

I am quite handy, but don't want to mess anything up.

Posted

Wiring diagram is probably your best friend on this project. If you are not comfortable around schematics find a budy who is and offer beer and/or steak, or go to a professional. A competent custom high end audio installer should be able to figure this out with the proper schematics. Just be careful as I would bet your truck uses the ECM or BCM to power the reverse lights, if you short that circuit, "it would be bad". So a fuse inline with the relay coil (the relay contacts will be fused amply by the radio fuse) is a must. Also, since the ECM/BCM is probably the power source, make sure the relay has a "surge" or "blocking" diode across it to keep the relay transients from getting back into the ECM/BCM output. IIRC, those little Bosch relay kits you get at the autoparts store have one built in, they usually show a little rectangular symbol across the relay coil if they have this diode/snubber. You also do not need a huge 30+A relay, check your current radio fuse, if it is a 10A,then get at least 15A or so relay would be fine. I reccomend a smaller relay because they have smaller coils that take less current.

 

What you are doing is simply paralleling the relay coil with the reverse lights, so the relay coil has to go in that circuit somewhere. Since the relay coil would be switching the power lead to the radio (usually the red lead in the harness at the radio, or at the back of the fuse block), having the relay in/near the dash would be best. The reverse circuit will be the harder to find, the radio circuit is a piece of cake -- its at the radio harness and behind the radio fuse! Just the NC (Normally Closed) contacts in series with the radio power lead. The NC contacts will show closed or continuity when checked with a meter when the relay is at rest/unpowered. So in short (no pun intended) you will be cutting and splicing the NC relay contacts into the positive power lead to the radio. Compare this to the relay coil which will probably (check your schematic) have one side going to ground and the other side going to the 'switched' reverse circuit fromthe ECM/BCM.

 

Oh yes, you can find what you need here (Ive checked):

 

http://www.gmupfitter.com/body_builder_manuals.html

 

I can only assume it is accurate, be sure to check against what you actually measure with a meter.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...