Jump to content

adding eoc - easy or hard?

Lv1G6He3V2

Recommended Posts

Lv1G6He3V2 Enthusiast

Lv1G6He3V2

Posted
Posted

UPDATE:

 

I decided the EOC isn't worth the trouble (for my use) and am proceeding with the non-EOC rad.

 

 

'99 Sierra 1500 5.3L GMT800

 

 

I'm looking to replace my 28" non-EOC radiator with a 34" if I can find a good deal.

  1. How easy is it to add EOC lines at this time?
  2. What about oil pressure, will my pump handle the EOC?
  3. Is there any chance I'd throw off some sensor and get grief from the computer?

 

From my research it was just a $150 dealer option, but sometimes it pays to ask a few questions.

 

 

EDIT:

 

After more research I concluded adding the EOC option would be quite a project. The pre-bent hard lines are said to be cheap, but installing them would 2-3 hours on top of the radiator replacement. Most of the time is spent threading the new lines in from the back/bottom of the engine compartment and through the other hoses/wires without ruining the new lines. (This is said to be an interesting puzzle, heh.) Seals are supposed to come with the line kit (from Dorman?) but apparently I would also need a bypass valve.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,006 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • OnTheReel
      Some Assembly is Required

      By OnTheReel · Posted

      https://www.gm-trucks.com/why-gm-chose-0w-30-gen-6-v8-oil/   The swing back to reality continues…
    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

    • txab
      Gas Prices

      By txab · Posted

      $3.59  
    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...