Jump to content

Electrical system gone haywire


c03camson

Recommended Posts

Posted

Went to start truck and it would not crank over but all the lights came on. went back out a few minutes later and it started right up but the DIC proceeds to tell me to service about 10 different systems.

 

The gauges all lit up but but they did not work and scrolling through the info on DIC there was no information, just dashes. The security light stayed on the whole time.

 

I shut the truck off and none of the interior lights or gauge lights would shut off. The key fob is inop as well.

 

I would call my local dealer but I live in Kodiak Alaska so not sure what to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Posted

Got a chance to go out and do some investigating... Did not see any blown fuses, battery leads are secure and clean.

 

Tried a different key fob and the truck acted normal. Lowered the hood and then it started acting weird again. Raised and lowered hood again but did not latch it and it seems to be working normally at this point.

 

When I turn key off and pull it out I hear some electrical components making noises, not sure if they always have done that.

 

Like I said, I live in Kodiak and truck has been sitting for about a week and has been raining for a majority of that time. Temps ranging from 50F down to barely below freezing.

Posted

Still trying to get to where the ground wire connects to chassis.

 

A huge fence hit the right rear quarter panel a few weeks ago and crushed the sheet metal up against the bed. I wonder if that would have anything to do with it??

Posted

Disconnected the batteries and let it sit for about 15 minutes. Hooked back up and everything seemed to work normal for a while then it started doing crazy stuff again.

 

So if battery connections are all good I would check the the grounds going to the chassis?

Posted

Went to start truck and it would not crank over but all the lights came on. went back out a few minutes later and it started right up but the DIC proceeds to tell me to service about 10 different systems.

 

The gauges all lit up but but they did not work and scrolling through the info on DIC there was no information, just dashes. The security light stayed on the whole time.

 

I shut the truck off and none of the interior lights or gauge lights would shut off. The key fob is inop as well.

 

I would call my local dealer but I live in Kodiak Alaska so not sure what to do. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

sometimes a local garage can do warranty for a dealer thats not near ya ,,,,ask the dealer if this may apply to you ,,,you seem to have little knowledge of auto electrical ,,,

Posted

That is correct I have little knowledge about auto electrical. Thats why I was hoping somebody on here would be able to help me out. Other than checking the battery and connections I would think id need a code reader to figure out what is wrong. Called chevrolet and they want to put it on a ferry and taken to a dealer in anchorage so they can diagnose the problem.

Posted

They called me back today and said I can get it towed to a local shop and have the warranty work done there through the dealership in anchorage. I knew they would not want to get it ferried and then hauled to anchorage, would have cost them lots of money.

 

So as far as the problem is concerned, its intermittent. Today I went out and it started just fine with no errors. Im sure later it won't. So Im thinking its a computer problem. I checked battery and connections, not much else I can do

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 407 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...