drove the SLT, Denali and LTZ today

The Zip · May 16, 2015

Don't know if the HID set-up is different, but if a truck is currently running HIDs, you can get a replacement bulb with or without Xenon.

vdubpower · May 16, 2015

Ok I'll see If the dealer knows

The Zip · May 16, 2015

Hey, I'm the one that posted the Electrical Plan, duh. This is what I found; "The headlamps consist of 2 high intensity discharge (HID) arc tubes and ballast on each side of the vehicle which provide high and low beams. HID headlamps do not have filaments like traditional bulbs, instead the starter uses a high voltage transformer to convert the input voltage into a higher voltage".

So based on the info, the Chevy line-up would infer the LTZ has a different headlight set-up than the LT and LS. It would make sense for the Denali and Escalade set-up to be similar to the LTZ.

vdubpower · May 17, 2015

Sounds good. In the meantime been reading about this sound buffeting issue. That could be big concern with kids. They don't tolerate ears getting blocked at all well

The Zip · May 17, 2015

You are not going to find anything positive on the buffeting, I have been posting on that thread since page 1. Everything I post positive on the Tahoe is nice and everything, if you get a truck like mine. It would be just what you want and need. But then on the other hand, if you find one with buffeting, pressure, shaking, and vibration (BPSV), it will be your worst nightmare. Especially for the kids.

I have a 2013 build, bought my truck in Mar '14. To date, my truck couldn't be better (except for the spongy suspension). There is no determinant when or how the issues will occur, but I believe GM Quality Control diminished as production of these trucks increased.

Keep gathering info on the trucks but leave it at that until dealers don't give you the deer in the headlight look when asked the question about the pressure. That would mean GM came up with a plan to mitigate the BPSV.

As many good things I could say about my truck, if you and my roles were reversed, I would not by a 2015 GM Fullsize SUV (Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon/Yukon XL/Denali/Escalade)

vdubpower · May 18, 2015

well then i guess im off to buy a oddesey or siena....hmm maybe a sequoia

Wouldnt mind a gl merc but pricey... and too fancy for the kids mess.

what ill probably do is just take the 2006 truck to the dealer and get reamed with whatever fix they do for the reduced engine power crap....maybe that will buy me a year until some changes are made and i can buy something on my terms

The Zip · May 18, 2015

Do what you have to do man. BTW, find a good mechanic in your area and ask if he could check all the engine "grounds" in your truck to ensure they are making solid contact, may save you some dollars. Engine schematic or microfiche should identify the locations.

vdubpower · May 18, 2015

lol thats the key..finding a good one....Im in so-cal, orange area...u know anyone?

where r u located?

The Zip · May 18, 2015

I do know a good mechanic but I'm 7 hrs (no LA traffic) round trip from you, won't work. Post your issue or look around on the 1999-2013 Fullsize SUV forum and see what you get.

In the meantime, pop the hood and ensure the negative cable is not in disrepair and securely affixed to a metal portion of the body. Also, since you don't have a local mechanic, check with parts stores that have automotive sections (Pep Boys, Sears, Wal Mart, Midas) and ask how much they charge for an electrical diagnostics. Real easy to do, I probably spent 20 bucks and had Pep Boys do it for me some years back, a lot of info was provided on the readout. This may at least give you an idea of the problem and can save you big bucks versus going to the dealer cold and having them try to figure something out.

Ltz73 · July 26, 2015

Premium ride u mean the magnetic. Yeah a little bounce is OK.

My daily driver is a e 63 amg with a couple if turbos so that's why I may feel that hesitation

Taking about turbos. The expedition had the eco boost with more power and torque. Intriguing.

Will Chevy get the 8 speed or is that just for denali and caddy

Big AMG fan had an E55 and an E63. Would love to hear more about your twin turbo E63..

Scurvey · July 27, 2015

5.3 vs 6.2.....wow, big difference...the small engine seems like it has no pickup from stand still....6.2 seemed effortless. Is it me or is that the truth....remember i drive a 2006 denali with a 6.0 and the damn reduced engine power issue

Make sure to test drive 5.3 with 3.42 rear end (max trailering package) vs 3.08.

vdubpower · July 27, 2015

Why and how should that make a difference

Scurvey · July 27, 2015

I apologize in advance for the long answer. One of the most important considerations for your vehicle selection is what type of differential ratio is selected.

Gears have many different types of jobs in a vehicle. For example, one of the important jobs of the rear differential is to convert the energy transmitted from the driveshaft to a 90 degree angle and apply that power to the axles. A secondary job of the rear differential is that it is a mathematical multiplier of torque that is delivered from the engine and tranmission. Gears have been created to re-direct engergy and also to multiply the effect of that energy. You can think of them almost like levers or "pulleys". They create mechanical advantage.

In Suburbans and GMC Yukons outfitted with 5.3l engines you have gearing selections of 3.08:1 and 3.42:1. Just how powerful are these gears? The 3.42 gearing selection increases the maximum towing capacity of a 2WD GMC Yukon by 1 ton. Believe me, this is power that you can feel and record when you hammer down that throttle. The gearing will provide faster acceleration and ultimately the additional towing capacity you may need, but, is there a cost? Unfortunately yes. Think of it like racing your friend on a bicycle. If he is running 3.08 gears and you are running 3.42 you generally will beat him off the line (he is really having to apply MORE energy to the pedals initially to try and keep up with you) but eventually your friend is going to blow past you in "top speed" (your legs are pedaing like crazy in that final 3.42 ratio, he is gliding along nicely with 3.08 as he waves bye-bye).

Tradeoffs: Acceleration, Top Speed, Towing Capacity, Fuel Efficiency, "Cruising RPM" range

The top speed is sort of a mute point because these vehicles have governors installed to keep us from doing silly things that might hurt us (and others). Denali's have a fixed final ratio of 3.23 with the 6.2l engine and you can't order another option. If you are towing anything near 50% of the towing limits of the vehicle I'd recommend investing in the max towing option (3.42 gears included). If you drive the 3.08 and don't ever tow anything (say, greater than 3-4K lbs) and you are pleased with off-line accelaration the 3.42 gears are useless and you'll get better gas mileage and a more comfortable RPM range at maximum highway speeds.

My last 2011 Suburban 4X4 was 3.08. I regularly towed 4-5K lbs and it worked OK, but it really needed the max tow package to tow that load comfortably. Towing that same load uphill it felt like the vehice was about to explode or kept my wife looking in the mirror for transmission parts or screaming "we aren't going to make it!!!!". The sad news is that given a heavy enough load (RV camper) on an extremely steep incline with the wrong gears (and it happens to be 95 degrees outside) you absolutely can get to a point where "you ain't gonna make it".

I never had a problem with 3.08 in town and mileage was improved. it was a great "around town" ratio.