Hub or caliper

[Bob Callen]

My abs light is on. I starting hearing strange sounds front driver side tire usually in turns but one day leaving a parking lot there was a high pitch squile and grinding noise that lasted for several hundred feet and stopped. I thought caliper stuck. It's not pulling though. Any thoughts, comments, experiences....?

[Btuggle88]

It's the hub bearing, the speed sensor is made into it.

[Cody07]

I've got a 2007 Silverado and it's making a grinding and popping noise on the front driver side sometimes my brakes work fine and other times my brakes are going to the floor I have no clue what it is

[rjgti]

might wanna have those brakes fixed cody

[anumber1]

I've got a 2007 Silverado and it's making a grinding and popping noise on the front driver side sometimes my brakes work fine and other times my brakes are going to the floor I have no clue what it is

If the hub get sloppy enough, the runout produced will wobble the rotor enough that the brake caliper's piston will be forced back far enough onto the bore that your brakes will feel spongy and have excessive pedal travel.

 

Check your wheel bearings.

[Bob Callen]

It was my hub. It was horrible. I changed it out in about 1 1/2 hours. I thought not bad for a diy. Couldn't believe how many miles I put on it. Glad it's fixed!

[vms4evr]

Just replaced drivers side wheel bearing. Same problem as noted above. Grinding. There was definitely play in it. Just grabbing it and wiggling it moved. You could hear grinding even turning by hand. I've replaced a few on my C5 before. They truck was easier to get to the 3 bolts on the back of the wheel bearing. But a pain pulling the big nut off the half shaft. I remembered *after* I was done that I should have just popped the dust cap while the truck was sitting with wheel on. Bust the nut loose. Then proceed with lifting and fixing. Oh well. Got it off with a helper prying a bar against the studs while the other pushed on a breaker bar. It's not a bad job to do at all for diy. Only thing I didn't have was the 36mm socket.

[Cody07]

If the hub get sloppy enough, the runout produced will wobble the rotor enough that the brake caliper's piston will be forced back far enough onto the bore that your brakes will feel spongy and have excessive pedal travel.

 

Check your wheel bearings.

Ok thanks! So you think it's the wheel bearing?

It's going to the dealership in the morning

[vms4evr]

Sloppy wheel bearing and/or worn out pads can cause that. It's called "knock back". On a worn pad there is plenty of room for the sliding caliper to move and the pistons can get "knocked back" into the caliper and that pushes brake fluid up. Then you hit the brakes and that fluid has to get pushed back into the caliper so it can work properly. This condition repeats until you fix the guilty party. It happens on my C5 on track when the pads get down to about a quarter.

[Bob Callen]

My 2006 has 50,000 miles on it. Little surprised the hub/bearing went. Just wonder when the other side will go.

I bought a Moog with a 3 year warranty. Didn't go GM but I thought I still got a good part. Time will tell.

[vms4evr]

My 2006 has 50,000 miles on it. Little surprised the hub/bearing went. Just wonder when the other side will go.

I bought a Moog with a 3 year warranty. Didn't go GM but I thought I still got a good part. Time will tell.

 

There is no GM part. The AC Delco part is made by Timken. The same Timken one Autozone sell for 1/3 the price. The only difference is the box it comes in. Timken makes their bearings and sells under many named vendors. They don't care. They make lots of money and will put their bearing in a box with anything written on it you want.

 

I've never used the Moog part. On my C5 I did my front bearings with SKFs. They're expensive but made to a high standard and take the abuse of track driving.

 

It's hit or miss that you get a Timken bearing that is bad or dies quickly. I've been lucky and not replaced one twice because of a faulty part. Knocks on wood...