Jump to content

Load rating/performance question

targetpanic

By targetpanic
in Tires, Wheels & TPMS

Recommended Posts

targetpanic Enthusiast

targetpanic

Posted
Posted

Quick question guys. My RC 2.5" Level kit (with rear block) arrived yesterday and is being installed on Friday. I have 18" wheels. I am probably going to leave the crappy SRAs on there for the time being, assuming it doesn't look foolish. However, if I were to put a new tire on they will be either BFG AT KO2, Nitto TG G2, or General Grabber AT2. I know a lot of you guys are running 275/70/18 with no problems.


My question is more in the performance (mpg) and tire wear. Would I be better off with a LT275/70/18 E load 10 ply tire 57.5# each or a 265/70/18 SL 4 ply tire 43# each. There is only about 3/4" difference in tire height.


Would the 10 ply wear better? Would the 4 ply give me a substantial better mpg? The last set of tires I had on my F150 were the Gen Grabber AT2 10 ply and they had 40,000 on them and looked like new still compares to the Cooper AT3 I had on there before that which were pretty much junk after 45,000 miles. I wasn't sure if the better wear was due to being a 10ply tire???



I put this in the 2014-2016 full size forum before I saw the tire and wheel forum...my bad


tnchevy Senior Enthusiast

tnchevy

Posted
Posted

The heavier your tire the more energy it will take to get it rolling which in turn lowers mpg's. A more aggressive tread will also lower mpg's. If you like you gas mileage the way it is then stick with more street oriented tire. If you want the looks and capabilities of a heavier and taller LT tire then you have to pay to play which in turn means paying more at the pump, that's just how it is. LT tires are generally made of a stiffer compound and will wear longer but usually means less capabilities in wet weather but tires opinions are like oil opinions, every body has one they think is the best.

amfr Enthusiast

amfr

Posted
Posted

The heavier your tire the more energy it will take to get it rolling which in turn lowers mpg's. A more aggressive tread will also lower mpg's. If you like you gas mileage the way it is then stick with more street oriented tire. If you want the looks and capabilities of a heavier and taller LT tire then you have to pay to play which in turn means paying more at the pump, that's just how it is. LT tires are generally made of a stiffer compound and will wear longer but usually means less capabilities in wet weather but tires opinions are like oil opinions, every body has one they think is the best.

Best response. You gave facts and was right to the point.

 

sent from Florida beech

Gc773 Enthusiast

Gc773

Posted
Posted

Well said Tn, I can say this at this point in time based on approximately 500 miles on the Ko2's 275/70/18 in reference to mpg. Without any re-calibration of the speedo my mileage stayed within a tenth of mpg prior to the tire change. Last evening I re-calibrated the speedo and expect the mpg to be a bit lower. However, my decision to switch out tires was not based on mpg, but rather having confidence during inclement weather. Targetpanic, while I can't give you a solid answer at this time regarding tire wear, I can say that I expect mpg to suffer ever so slightly. I can say this, these newer trucks perform much better (mpg included) than any of my past trucks over the last 30 years. So, I'm happy with 16.2 mpg during the winter months and I expect during the summer I'll be pushing 18+. Cheers

Big Whiskey Senior Enthusiast

Big Whiskey

Posted
Posted

The heavier your tire the more energy it will take to get it rolling which in turn lowers mpg's. A more aggressive tread will also lower mpg's. If you like you gas mileage the way it is then stick with more street oriented tire. If you want the looks and capabilities of a heavier and taller LT tire then you have to pay to play which in turn means paying more at the pump, that's just how it is. LT tires are generally made of a stiffer compound and will wear longer but usually means less capabilities in wet weather but tires opinions are like oil opinions, every body has one they think is the best.

Ditto. Good post! :thumbs:

tnchevy Senior Enthusiast

tnchevy

Posted
Posted

Well said Tn, I can say this at this point in time based on approximately 500 miles on the Ko2's 275/70/18 in reference to mpg. Without any re-calibration of the speedo my mileage stayed within a tenth of mpg prior to the tire change. Last evening I re-calibrated the speedo and expect the mpg to be a bit lower. However, my decision to switch out tires was not based on mpg, but rather having confidence during inclement weather. Targetpanic, while I can't give you a solid answer at this time regarding tire wear, I can say that I expect mpg to suffer ever so slightly. I can say this, these newer trucks perform much better (mpg included) than any of my past trucks over the last 30 years. So, I'm happy with 16.2 mpg during the winter months and I expect during the summer I'll be pushing 18+. Cheers

Gc, I plan on putting a set of 275/65 or 275/75 but probably in a cooper, glad to hear your mpg's were not too affected by it. I work in the timber industry and have been driving 1/2 ton trucks for nearly 20 years. My company bids them out and we usually get plain jane trucks with small street tires on them and we usually put on a set of bigger LT AT tires within a few months. It has been my experience that I will usually lose about 2 mpg with bigger and heavier tires and that is with the speedo corrected. My current work truck (F150, 5.0 v8) was getting about 19 mpgs on the interstate in the summer but dropped to 17 when the bigger and heavier tires went on.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • TrueBlue
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      I toggled my updates off a couple of years back. Since I don't have any CEL activity and the truck runs fine I'm happy to refrain from rolling the dice. I figure they've got it as good as it's gonna get. Recalls are another matter and I will strongly consider those if I get a notice in the mail.
    • TrueBlue
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      We'll know soon. But at the end of the day they'll likely not take owner aggravation and costs into consideration. Probably the most important factor to them will be bottom line, along with units sold. Did they make money off sales of AFM/DFM-equipped vehicles? If yes, and the margin was large enough in spite of warranty and recall costs, I don't know that they will consider much else. Aside from government involvement of course, as in EPA and other regulatory bodies.
    • Grumpy Bear
      HighMileage oils or stay with Dexos 1 ?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      HM oils and cleaning. Well, soft deposits yes, perhaps. Like you say esters are present in in theory that should be a plus. But, is there enough? 🤔 The marker is the "Aniline Point" and it has to be pretty low to solve out baked on deposits. The softer sludge, yea, they do that and that is the claim. Valvoline R&P is the only HM oil I know of (Jury is out on Mobil 1's product) whose chemistry is uniquely able to remove the hard stuff and not be so aggressive as to swell seals to uselessness.    Oxidation levels in virgin oils blends is a good indicator of ester level and higher is generally a lower Aniline number and at one time we could predict without the $400 aniline test it's effectiveness. AN's, alkylated naphthalene doesn't show up in the oxidation test but does show in the aniline test and has become sort of a cheaper go to but most oils only add enough to solve the additive package. Not nearly enough to clean the harder carbon materials.   To your second question about does it matter. Yes is the short answer. Deposits are insulative. Those under the piston crown for example add octane requirement for knock free running. We don't' normally notice in todays motors due to Knock sensor driven ignition R-e-t-a-r-d. At least until the full slate of available values is consumed. Newer motors also often use oil jets to cool the piston to achieve tunes that would otherwise not be possible. Deposits on either side subtract from that. Deposits in fine screens used in VVT/VVL or DFM/AFM services live and die on cleanliness and screens are front and center. Vacuum pumps as well like brake booster in the K2's.    90% of todays oils are Group II+/III blends. A few more at PAO/AN/Group II's. A few boutique oils not Walmart shelf materials have enough solvency to prevent but not remove the hard stuff. R & P the current exception. Even HPL's EC30/40 used as directed (20% max) will get the soft stuff and some varnish out but not the hard stuff.    That orange varnish isn't baked on oil. Those are fuel varnishes left when the fuel diluted in the oil drops out when the oil cools. Like sugar does in a saturated mix of sugar and water that is put into the frig. That is ring sticking material and a glue the binds hard carbon sometimes.    Name brand shelf oils are intended to provide a useful service life at the least cost and highest benefit to the OEM who is trying very hard to keep you in $500 a month payment programs where the real money is made.   Did I miss anything you asked or left unsatisfied?        
    • TrueBlue
      Brake Pad Warning Message

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      Yes, I understand. And I was saying (poorly), that it popped up on the DIC when I didn't have that info screen up. Just like you, but for a different maintenance issue. And just like yours mine didn't need to be shown at that time.
    • Atlas
      HighMileage oils or stay with Dexos 1 ?

      By Atlas · Posted

      Ugh, amateurs.   But I did learn HM seal conditioners are esters.   I'm curious about deposit removal - some of the HM oils claim they really clean stuff up, the old and hard to reach stuff, and that's great? To Grumpy's point, a good oil should already be keeping the house pretty clean. I assume there are hard to reach places (underside of pistons?) and things that just accumulate baked-on oil and combustion vapors. If the deposits aren't friction or combustion surfaces and the deposit is just normal "seasoning", is it actually important to remove it?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...