Yukon SLT

[CapnDean]

Gonna try to buy the wife a 2003 Yuke.

 

Got my eye on 2.  Ones a Yukon SLT loaded up factory sticker is just short of 43K

 

Similar deal on a Tahoe same equipment weighing in at $42,300 on the dealer sticker.

 

Anybody bought anything similar willing to give some insight?

 

Definitely gonna take 0% and no rebate.  But the dang incentives and stuff can make it hard to pin down a good price.

 

The "invoice" price from KBB, EDMUNDS, NADA etc are about as frustratingly useless to me in that #1 I find them to be inaccurate and #2 dang near impossible to create and identically equipped vehicle.

 

My old formula (high end sticker less 20%) used to work including taxes...My dealer disagrees.

 

What do yall think?

$43K - 20% = $34,400.  Does that sound right?  $34,400 represents sales tax too and the 0%.  Or am I in outer space?

[GDN]

Off topic to the vehicle you're looking at - but you might want to reconsider the 0% financing versus the incentives.  It will vary for every situation - but loans are very cheap right now - depending on how much you finance.  I just bought and took the rebates.  My credit union had 4.5 % loans and the dealer found me one with Bank of America for 3.2 %.  My interest over 5 years was about $1900 - so I made an additional $1100 by taking the rebates and finding other cheap financing.

 

I know this will vary for everyone - depending on how much you finance and credit ratings - but do compare.  They know the 0% is very attractive - but sometimes you can save more by taking the rebates and finding other good financing elsewhere.

[CapnDean]

Yeah...basically the 0% breaks out between $19K & $20K...meaning that if you are borrowing more than $19K you are likely better off taking the 0%.  If you are borrowing less than $20K you MAY be better off taking a low interest rate.

If you're right there...check em both!

 

In my Case however....I think I will finance as much as I can at 0%...but I intend to pay as little as I can!

[gave20]

KBB and edmunds dealer prices are off but they are not inacurate.  If you look at the base price of the websites compared to GM you'll see the difference, the option pricing is accurate.  As far as the 20% off high sticker I think the dealer will more likely go with 12% off MRSP or true dealer cost plus 5% (3% is hold back cost).  Don't forget 0% is not 0% its 15-20$ surcharge for every 1000 borrowed, 3k back could save you 100-200 in the long run so I wouldn't give the dealer anymore than I had to, they're already screwing you on the truck.

[CapnDean]

KBB and edmunds dealer prices are off but they are not inacurate.

"KBB & Edminds Prices are off but they are not inaccurate?"

 

Please explain what you mean by this.  If the figures are accurate, then it stands to reason that they are not "off".

If they are "off" then they ARE inaccurate.

 

My 2001 truck was purchased for precisely $21995.  This figure included tax, title EVERYTHING...write a check for this price.   When you compare it to it's sticker price you will see that I bought a new truck (tax wax and all) for 19% less than the sticker price. {27200-5203 =$21997}  

 

The KBB and NADA "invoice price" on this truck was roughly $24,000 as I recall.  

 

SO:  I either:

A) Bought my truck for $3000 LESS than dealer cost (b4 tax)

B) Bought my truck for $2000 less than dealer cost (after tax)

C) Learned that the invoice price is NOT dealer cost.

D) Got such a great deal that the dealer paid for part of my truck.

 

What is CRYSTAL clear...is that I paid (tax & all included) $5205 less than the MSRP.

 

I seriously doubt that the dealer sold it to me for less than he paid for it....  Consequently, I am completely mistrusting ANY invoice price.  I am curious to see what OTHERS have paid for this same unit.  SO FAR I have found several in the $35K range.

[100R1]

Take the  $ 3,000 rebate

 

if you take 0% and then decide to trade, get stolen or totaled before the load period expires then you are out  the difference between the  $ 3,000 and actual monthe at 0%.

 

Also not all purchasers meet requirements for 0% (read the fine print)

 

Take the $ 3,000  if you can take a home improvement loan/second mortgage on your home (YOU DO NOT HAVE TO USE IT FOR ONLY YOUR HOME!) The interest is tax deductable. which will add up to more than $ 3,000 regardless of the length of the loan.

 

Even if you take a bank/credit union loan with rules of 78 interest you can take the second mortg, on your home and pay off the bank lloan at a future date with out a penalty on the primary loan.

 

Also if you take the $ 3,000 rebate & find your BEST loan rate from your own private sources (bank, CU etc.) then tell the dealership (stealership!) that you are going to finance it and take the rebate, you may be able to save a few more dollars off the selling price of the vehicle because the dealership now knows that they will have the oppertunity to make a little off the back end (financing kick back) on you.

 

I use to sell GM's (made a lot of $ off of Grand Nationals, GNX's were insane commissions!)

 

Word of advise, Don't fall in love with a vehicle so bad that you can't walk out of the dealership. When the deal is laid on the table look the salesman in the Eyes and don't be the first to talk. Make the salesman sweat. Be carefull of the closer(the hired gun the manager will send in to close the deal). Don't give them a lot of information to prey on remember they are in this for a living and have more ways of selling a vehicle than you can imagine. Been there done that.

[Axxlrod]

I bought a 2003 Yukon SLT a couple months ago.  I was planning on waiting to buy until this summer, but I couldn't resist GM's 0/0/0 plan.  $0 down payment/ 0 payments for 90 days/ 0% interest for 60 months.

 

I went down to my local dealer, but due to GM's financing, they weren't willing to deal very much.  I ended up buying my vehicle using carsdirect.com.  It was great because I was very picky about the color, trim level, and options I wanted.  So I "built" my vehicle online, and they displayed the MSRP of my vehicle, and then also the carsdirect price.  The carsdirect price was about $6000 less than sticker, and $400 under dealer invoice.  All manufacturer rebates and financing are availalbe to you.  I chose the 0% financing for 60 months.  I financed 100% of the vehicle's cost.  It was an extremely easy process.  No hard sell.

[Tucson_02Silverado]

Theres the sales tax and license fees which are hard to figure out.  The best thing to do is take the actual MSRP window sticker price and add 8%.  Without any negeotiating on the price would be about what the vehicle + tax + license would be.  Now use the any of the online payment calculators with the figured amount at 60 months at 4.5% and at 6%.  Can you live either one of those monthly payments?  Remember you will be trying to get a better price so it won't get any worse than the preliminary numbers.

 

In this economic climate, there is absolutely no reason to be start anywhere above the ACTUAL dealers invoice.  Even on H1's and H2's.  Remember everything negotiable.

 

The first point you want to make is that the actual dealer inventory invoice sheet be printed up.  If that becomes the dealer's sacred document, you tell them up front that is an instant deal breaker and there are other dealers.  Have the VIN's and the dealers stock number that's on the lot, Sunday is here perfect time.  They make the game of that they don't know it and would have to go out and look them up, full B.S.

 

Is the vehicles you're looking at in the back stacked up or in the front?  Like a grocery store, oldest stock is in the front.  Only matters on cutthroat negeotiating.  If you look on the dealers invoice near the bottom line items is an approximate $600 called Manufacturers Advertising.  If that vehicle is stacked in the back it's probably only off the truck less than two weeks.  It won't have a balloon on it like the ones in front so why should you pay.

 

Think about the credit unions at around 4-4.5% or less depending, you can  term it to 84 months instead of 60.  Just make the monthly payment that it would be for 60.  That way if you become short for some reason, you could always pay that 84 month payment amount.  You'd pay the vehicle off sooner.

 

Base Price would be actual dealers invoice

Subtract $3000 GM incentive

Subtract $600 advertising fee

Subtract $500 just for #### of it

For trucks I would say they pay for an over the rail spray on bed liner like Line-X or Rhino your choice, but for a SUV I'd work a deal for Z71 Yukon tires and wheels for free at first maybe no less than 80% off with trade of what's on the vehicle or that amount towards the tire/wheels you do want.

Items not negeotiable are sales tax, and in most cases destination charge.  The dealer does prep the cars off the truck.  There is plastic all over the door panels, seats and the options are usually just boxed thrown in the back so like floor mats and roof racks are installed.

 

The final closer items are financing and extended warranty (rust and dust stuff).  Even though you have your financing set with a CU or bank, let them look to see if they can beat the terms you have ie. like 4% at 84 months and NO additional fees or final payment crap.  Extended warranty...you can get that any time before the GM 3/36 is up.  Some will be only within 90 days of purchase and the price will only be slightly higher at a later date.  Start with the dealer paying 50% for a bumper to bumper to 100K.  Remember you first calculated with no negeotiations and said to yourself you can afford it.

 

You may think about the general negeotiating tactic as actual Dealers invoice printed and you given a copy as definite deal breaker and all the other items all the way to the closer becomes "...we need to think about it a little more and we'll get back to in a couple of days....".  Don't bring the kids.  Make it clear that it's for your wife.  First day only you look at least two vehicles and test drive at least one.  You'll be pressured to bring the wife in right away DON'T.  Of course on Sundays yourself and your wife can pre-pick the ones she likes.  The GSM will probably be introduced and your story told by the salesperson right in front of you.  You just act all giddy, and state again it's going to be the wife's SUV and she'll be the one to pick between the two, but you could go for either one.  Day two you'll get a reminder call to come down and look with the wife.  If it's stated like that...mistake on the salesperson, now you have them hooked.  Next the wife is in, picks the one, negeotiate.  They should be paying attention to your wife and making the deals to her...but they won't.  Remind her before arriving at the dealer what will probably happen and decide on a signal for her to start looking disinterested even buying anything anymore.  If this is happening and the other parts of the deal is not working towards your satisfaction, signal your wife and ask for a blank sheet of paper and just write out your terms.  You'll be told that begging and pleading on hands and knees are happening to the GSM and above.  They won't match what's on your paper.  Since they ignored your wife, you tell them that you had told them it's the wife SUV 100% and they seemed to have forgotten that and ignored her and now you'll have to leave and maybe think about the whole thing.  Day three they will probably match all you wanted.  Tell them it's still your wife decision and she is still miffed about the whole ordeal.  Call them back in about 90 minutes and if 20's wheel/tires are your wife's thing tell them your wife said "...no deal unless they are included no charge then you all be there this evening to sign for the thing".  (turn it into just a thing instead of saying SUV)

 

Maybe you'll luck out and get a no B.S. sales person.....