Jump to content

Life Span on 5.7 Vortec?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey all. I'm looking at buying a used 1994 to 1998 GMC sierra 4x4 1500 with a 5.7 Vortec. One truck that I was looking a, a 1996, had 280000 km on the clock, and I was curious about how well these trucks hold up to large amounts of km like that. My current truck, a '94 Dakota 4x4 with a 5.2L has about 220000 km and it's definitely feelin tired and I was really intenting to upgrade to a gm with much lower km. How much better do the GM's and their engines age with that many km on the odometer?

Posted

What would that convert to in miles? I my self won't buy a car or truck that has over 100k miles. I like to stick to the really low stuff. That is if I can afford it. But from what I have seen they last along time. Around 200k on most. This is in Miles not Kilometers.

 

Later,

Brandon

Posted

1 Km = approximately 0.62 Miles.

 

That means then, that 280000 Kms is 173984 Miles on the 1996 Vortec and and 220000 Kms is 136702 Miles on the Dakota.

 

My 1996 Yukon's 5.7L Vortec currently has 189000 Kms or 117439 Miles on it and is still running strong.

Posted

well the '94 & '95 didn't have vortec yet, it started in '96.

 

My '97 Yukon had 140,000 when I pulled the motor to do some heavy mods and the engine looked like new on the inside. As long as they are maintained, they will last a long time.

 

My dad has a customer with a LT1 in his limo. The motor has been well maintained for its 450,000 miles so far and is still running strong.

  • 7 months later...
Posted

With proper maintenance the SBC should run fine for a long time. Probably the most common problem would be valve guide seals which would cause the motor to puff a little smoke on start-up.

 

If you were the person that put all the mile on and you did excellent maintenance then the motor should keep on purring, but if you don't know the history, then be wary!!! The good thing is that rebuilds or "Crate" motors are relatively inexpensive for that engine!!!

Posted

I've had my 97 2500 with a 5.7L Vortec/4L80E for three months now and I love it. 137,200 miles or 221,000 Km on the clock today and I did a compression test when I got it and the spread between best and worst was 4%. I found a oil change sticker on mine that had a on-line log of the oil changes for the past two years; the owner before me was very good on maintaining the truck and I think that is the key. I know someone who has an LT1 camaro with over 250K on it and it's just now starting to show signs of needing help. My truck doesn't use any oil at all and runs like a champ. With the price of a new nicely equiped 2500HD around 30K, I'll stick with mine that I got for under 7K. I did expect to do some valve work with that many miles, but it has shown no signs of needing it.

Posted

As stated above, that 94 that you are looking at doesn't have the Vortec 5.7 in it, it has the TBI 5.7.

 

That's what my 92 has in it, and it has 155,000 miles on it, and will still smoke the tires, cruise across country at 85, or tow 5000 lbs without breaking a sweat.

 

But......Like what ^^ they ^^ said.....It MUST be maintained very well in order to last.

Posted

I had a '91 with 350 that had 89,000 after just under 9 years of ownership. While that's no where near the milage your looking at or that others have posted, that thing was as strong as the day I bought it. I changed all the fluids, filters, etc regularly and never had an engine related problem out of it during the time I had it.

Posted
One truck that I was looking a, a 1996, had 280000 km on the clock, and I was curious about how well these trucks hold up to large amounts of km like that.

With those numbers, I wouldn't be interested. Even if the engine was just rebuilt yesterday, all the other systems on the truck (transmission, wiring, brakes, suspension, rear end) are well beyond the average lifespan. You could have the proberbial 'one-hoss shay' on your hands.

 

(http://legallanguage.com/poems/onehossshay.htm)

Posted

I would have no problem owning a truck with that mileage. The biggest thing is knowing the service history. My 1994 is solid as a rock with 178,000 (287,000km)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 482 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...