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Auto Transimission Filter Change?


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Posted

Took me about an hour to get the shift linkage bracket loosened up and bent out of the way to get the cover pan off on my 2000 Sierra 4x4 4.8L, now I am stuck trying to remove the metal gasket ring that goes around the filter stem at the valve bore.

 

Does any one have any ideas on how to do this? I have tried an ice peak with a bent tip, and a dentist tool with a hook so far with no luck. The Hayn's manual say use a Seal Removel Tool (???). What is that and where can I find one? The guy at AutoZone did not know what it was and suggested the ice peak.

 

Need to get this thing fixed tonight or won't be going to work tomorrow.... :)

 

Help...

Posted

Well I ended up using a wheel puller for my sons Lionel model trains. I reversed the jaws so the pointy ends were towards outside. Then bored out a hole through a thick piece plastic, fit the threaded end of the wheel puller through the hole and used the plastic bar as my resting block against the exposed edges of the hole in the transmission body.

 

The rest of it took all but less than 10 seconds to turn the handle on the puller and break the seal ring loose.

 

I bet there is a bushing remover or something like that with adjustable jaws out there, that someone is selling for the very same purpose. If not, then I have to make a few of these myself and sell them on eBay :)

Posted

How did you actually end up getting the linkage bolts loose? I tried using a 1/4 ratchet, but couldn't get my bolts loose. I managed to get the pan dropped and the fluid and filter changed, but it looked like a circus act! I coulda sold tickets to that show! LOL!

Posted

Geeez rtbrick! Where are you? The Bermuda Triangle? And what are you doing surfing at 1:22AM?

HeeHee

 

:)

 

P.S.-I used a hammer bar type gear puller that I had on hand.

Posted

O.K. The system clock must be funky or I'm in the Bermuda Triangle too! No really, it's 8:56PM 6/30/03 here in SA,TX.

:)

:D

Posted

I never managed to get the bracket completly off. I just loosened the front screw with a hex key, a piece of steel tubing to extend the hex key arm for more leverage, a lot of WD40, and a piece of 2x4 squeezed between the top of the hex key and whatever is above the bracket (this to hold the darn hex key in place and prevent rounding out the screw head).

 

After this circuis act (LOL), I got the front screw out, and used a screw driver to bend back the bracket as I manuvered the cover pass it.

 

By the way none of this was mentioned in the Haynes manual. There it just said remove the bracket :) ....

Posted

I have a buddy that ownes his own tranny shop. He leaves the filter ring in. He has heard of problems of scoring the pump inlet housing (where the filter neck goes into) and damaging the bore by removing this seal. He said the newer seals are a metal clad seal, similar to the ones that are used in other parts of the tranny, and generally do not need changed unless damaged.

Posted

Can the dealer.. drop my pan. change my filter then flushout the old fluid and flush the new synthetic trans fluid in.. or do i need to go to the tranny shop...

Posted

FYI

The o-ring remover is a long scribe looking tool with the end shaped like a cork screw. Slip the piont behind the o-ring and twist.

Posted
Can the dealer.. drop my pan. change my filter then flushout the old fluid and flush the new synthetic trans fluid in.. or do i need to go to the tranny shop...

Dealer should do it. They might not give you a discount for bringing in your own fluid which is wrong, and they might give you some hell for putting in synthetic because it will make it last longer and not need changed as often.

Posted
Can the dealer.. drop my pan. change my filter then flushout the old fluid and flush the new synthetic trans fluid in.. or do i need to go to the tranny shop...

Dealer should do it. They might not give you a discount for bringing in your own fluid which is wrong, and they might give you some hell for putting in synthetic because it will make it last longer and not need changed as often.

 

I had the dealer do mine. They charged me $80 for the flush and I gave them the fluid to install. That didn't include the filter change but just to flush out the old and install the new synthetic. They didn't give me any problems other than saying not sure if the warranty would still be valid. I just told them that is my choice and not concerned with it.

 

It is a simple procedure that they use. They are making a killing on that service. I mean it only took maybe 30 minutes and it was done. Not to mention the equipment is just a simple holding tank with two baffles in it and the pump on the transmission does all the work. The guy that invented that set up has got to be rich. :fume:

Posted

Yeah, I priced these machines at 3-5 thousand! I wanted to get one so I could do all my families changes (and do them right), but at that price i'll have to leave it to the shops. I was just saying they might give you some crap about using you're own oil instead of theirs and not give you the cost of theirs subtracted from the price. Black02Silverado, your oil won't void the warranty based on Magnusson Moss warranty act. First off, if the tranny does go, they have to prove it was from the fluids and not from craftsmanship or the flushing procedure. If they do, whatever oil you used has to second that, and then you could utilize the warranty of the oil maker or sue them for an inferior product. Amsoil warranties all of their stuff.

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