GM OEM Chevy Silverado Tow Hooks limitations

[elric]

After removing 3 inches of global warming, I looked at the front bumper on my 2013 Silverado 1500 (not HD).

 

The frame looks to be open rectangular in shape, as deep as you want to go.

 

 

What I would prefer to fill the empty space with would be akin to a receiver hitch and a shackle (cuz this is 'Murica!). Not seeing any products of that sort, unless you want to blow some $$$ and buy a new bumper. Since I am not an offroader, that is not going to happen.

 

Looking at the "hook" (why not a loop or ring?), I can sorta see why it is for towing, not recovery. Lots of room above and below the hook in the frame, and no inner bracing to take up any force from pulling at an angle.

 

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EDIT: After scraping global warming off my porch roof, I think the physics of the hook are clear. The outer sides of the hook are as wide as the interior of the frame. The cross-bolt keeps the hook from being pulled out ('natch) and the welded in spacer keeps the cross-bolt from dishing in the frame while tightening the bolt. As-is, the hook is (relatively) free to pivot up and down on the cross-bolt, since there is nothing above or below it. This is where the short, rear bolt comes in. It's main purpose is to prevent the rear of the hook from rotating up or down.

 

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Keep in mind, this is for recovering my truck, not yanking a 4x4 that is buried frame deep in a bog.

 

In order to brace this hook better than it is, how about making a sandwich, bottom piece goes from bottom of frame up to level with the top of the mounted hook. The sides of the brace are milled to accept the width of the hook on each side, there is a width-wide slot milled for the cross-bolt. Now we can use a simple flat piece to take up the space above the hook inside the frame.

 

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EDIT

Could use flat CRS above and below the hook, with a trapezoid (machined from CRS) inside the space between the spacer and the front edge of the frame, have that small trapezoid welded in place. Cuts a lot of machining out, which I like.

 

The only significant dimension of the top would be thickness, as the bottom part has to fit the frame pretty well so the base of the loop has better support against side loads.

 

The function of the trapezoid is to keep the base of the loop from bending away from the wall of the frame in front of the spacer when pulling from the side. The top could be pretty much loose, since the bottom is where the side forces are applied. The trapezoid should be pretty close fit, since the loop will bend less if it is fully supported.

 

Plus, the hook and frame remain stock, you use the original bolts.

 

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Or, ifn y'all have an idea of a suitable steel for a frame installed shackle, I'm listening. The frame interior is most likely close to a standard stock size (reducing machine time). The only part I am unsure of is the thickness needed for the shackle nose (thickness of the steel around the hole for the shakle pin)

 

[elric]

Finally quite dorking about and opened the Flea Buy GM OEM Tow Hooks (tow loops, more like it). Whipped out a 18mm box end wrench and a 1/2 inch drive ratchet with an 18mm socket. Wedged myself under the air dam and slid in the hooks. A little chicky-chicky with the ratchet and things are tight.

 

Not my first choice, but good enuf to get out of a snowback. Now to get a receiver shackle for the back and that is about as far as I feel I need to take this....