Jump to content

2005 GMC Sierra locked in 4WD Low


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi guys - I just joined with hopes someone can lend a hand. Woke up to a truck showing 4WD Low that was just fine (in 2 High) when shutting off the night before. Replaced the dash selector switch and checked fuse with no change. Pulled the transfer case actuator and, when doing so, felt and heard a noise that I believe came for the transfer case. I soon discovered I had no "DRIVE" in any gear. My best guess is the noise indicated the return to neutral after being so bound up in 4WD Low.

 

With the truck shift lever set in neutral and the rear wheels off the ground, I tried to manually move the transfer case spline shaft back to 2HI. I used a pair of channel locks to move the shaft in a counterclockwise direction. At this point, the "key" location for the transfer case spline was facing 6 o'clock with the actuator spline around 12 o'clock. There only marginal movement of the shaft. However, when moving

the shift lever in the cab through the gears, the transfer case engaged and it had returned to 4WD Low.

 

With this result, I surmised that the 6 o'clock position correlates to 4WD Low. And, because the dash shift selection moved from the 4WD Low position to 2HI when the actuator was removed from the transfer case, it seemed plausible that 12 o'clock on the actuator spline was 2HI.

 

I have tried several times to manually move the transfer case spline shaft from 6 to 12 o'clock. The alignment would then be correct and I could reinstall the actuator. However, while the shaft moves within a small arch, it meets resistance ( I am told this mechanism is spring loaded) and basically remains in 4WD low. Any ideas?

 

Update: after an initial return to the 2HI light on the dash selector switch, the switch is now vacant of a selector light. It lights up when starting but the go dark.

Posted

There are timing marks to align the gears to neutral above the encoder ring within the encoder motor casing. Then, if you are unable to electronically shift the TC to "neutral" the rear wheels are lifted, auto trans' shifted to neutral, & the TC encoder motor input shaft manually rotated to "neutral" position which aligns with the encoder sensor ring setup.

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/203153-transfer-case-np246-encoder/?do=findComment&comment=2027941

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 326 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...