Jump to content

Light issue

inline

Recommended Posts

inline Enthusiast

inline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Been toying with torque pro and car gauge pro, no luck getting oil pressure to work, brought up a question....is the oil sender a dummy switch on the 2003 4.8 trucks?  On/ off at X psi?

I'm used to older EFI where the oil reading either shown normal or nothing but this truck the psi fluctuates with RPM and oil temperature, wondering if it's an illusion of function as the sensors a switch or is it actually functional?

Dome light stopped coming on with the door opening again, seems like a bad connection.   Car gauge pro has an option to test the door module, haven't tested it to see if it'll work on this truck.

  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply
inline Enthusiast

inline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Car gauge pro app supposedly checked for codes, door module function, BCM, etc..  said self test No failure on each.

Earlier I opened the door, nothing, so I pushed the cargo light button, door light, dome light came on locks mirror became operational.  Add that to the list of things that override the DDM function or lack thereof upon entry.  Turned dome light off, closed door, minute later, door back to not working.

When the weather first became frigid, the door, dome light, worked as it should for a couple days, then went back to disfunctional.

 

inline Enthusiast

inline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Went back to basics.

Rolled truck window down.  Waited a minute, opened door, nothing works, no locks, mirror or lights.  Immediately removed door panel, disconnected ddm.  Tested the main four wire connection.  Orange, shown 12v+.  Black, tested from a random point on the actual truck frame (ohm continuity) to the female opening on the connector, tested good.  Also tested small orange wire, shown 12v+.

Read somewhere the brown wire should show a random voltage but with key off, was showing nothing, not sure if it should be tested key on?

But, reconnected the DDM, main four wire connection last, as soon as it clicked, door and dome light came on, locks mirror tested good.  Nothing new, wait a minute and it'll go back to dormant.

Sound like bad DDM or programming?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      New or used

      By Atlas · Posted

      I prefer new, but not without a deal. Historically I've bought severely aged new inventory, leftover model year, unpopular configuration kind of stuff that sits around on dealer lots until they just want it gone. $10k off MSRP kind of stuff on a mid-priced truck. That really, really helps knock down that first year depreciation. It also requires being somewhat flexible on colors and options. I wouldn't buy a 4 cylinder if I was looking for an 8 cylinder, but if I got blue paint instead of black, or a great deal was lacking a minor option, I'm willing to overlook those things for savings.   Used <> used. Condition and history are everything. If I'm buying used I'm looking for cream of the crop. The truck from the guy who religiously pampers it, and then decides a year later he wants newer and nicer. NOT the ex-rental vehicle, or the crew cab traded in by the family with 7 kids who like to throw food, and the oil only got changed when there was time long after the oil life monitor started alerting.
    • Atlas
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Atlas · Posted

      @Grumpy Bear the conclusion from your post about doubling engine life has me curious. Are we literally talking an expected life of 250,000 miles potentially becomes 500,000 miles with a step up in filtration for fresh oil at "the oil factory" when it's bottled? I know you said that's a single variable among many, but, that's significant if the implication extends that far into a real world use case. I would think the oil marketing folks would really eat that up and make it known.   Particles introduced during oil change is a fairly easy one to avoid, but probably not intuitive as one would think. I.e. using a clean funnel. But...what was it wiped with? Paper towel leaves behind little fibers. A solvent if not dried is not something one would want to introduce into their engine with clean oil. And, keeping the oil filler neck clean and free of buildup.. Look at some guys engine bays and they're an absolute mess. Some say that's better than the drawbacks of cleaning it. I'm not a buyer of that idea.   I've also wondered if "flooding" the top end of the engine with oil while filling is a bad idea. During normal lubrication the oil flows in a gutter back into the galleys. But if you flood the area you're potentially washing the top of the rockers, springs, and other areas which may not get much oil wash normally, and you're mixing all that into the new oil. I just don't have the patience to pour slowly. 😆    
    • Newduramaxh*ar
      DTC P2C48 auxiliary cooling pump

      By Newduramaxh*ar · Posted

      It was a bad pump, i had a dealer next day the pump. Gm part #86591535. Tools needed 10mm socket, pliers for hose clamps, 1/2gal of Dexcool. About 30mins to remove and install, pump located near oil filter on driver's side frame rail. I had a local mobile mechanic delete the code, he had a snap on scan tool. My scanner could not delete the code. I drove back home about 700 miles since then, and no check engine light. Hope this helps someone in the future in the same situation i was in. Thank you to all that helped me.
    • MORSNO
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By MORSNO · Posted

      Good to hear!  
    • Coastie05
      New or used

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Hi Gary, I guess it all boils down to personal preference and what you can afford. I, personally, buy new because I will know from day one how the vehicle is maintained and driven. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...