03 Lifter noise. 03 5.3 1500

[dustyak79]

First I have read a lot of lifter tick causes, solutions however their descriptions of symptoms are different enough I have to ask.

2003 5.3 Chevy 1500 160k miles. I had a rear main seal leak as well as oil pan gasket leak and the shop replaced those and changed the oil to a heavier weight 

. After wards I noticed what I would call a Lifter tick (type writer kind of tick ). It would do it on start up and calm down a couple minutes but once up to operating temps at highway RPMs I could hear it in the cab, however about say 10-15 miles further it would go away, and at the end of my drive of 40 miles I would come to a stop and not really notice the tick, my idle oil pressure is about 25- 30psi and at 2k rpm close to 40 psi. I didn't do a complete oil change but replaced about 3 quarts of the recommend weight and still same sounds and symptoms. From what I've read the oil pick up tube O ring can be the culprit ,however the symptoms seem different with the amount of oil pressure people reported when they had that problem. As well as the coming and going nature. If it has any bearing I will add I'm still suffering from a oil leak coming from higher up rear of block whether the new seal failed or is something else( to be determined) its not dropping the level enough after a few days of driving to notice on the dipstick nor did I run it too low prior to having the rear seal replaced.

Any insight would be helpful

Thanks

[Jsdirt]

Get a real gauge hooked directly to where the sending unit lives - see if the pressure is indeed actually fluctuating. To test to see of that o-ring is leaking will cost you a couple extra quarts. Overfill the crankcase by 2 quarts just to test - DON"T leave it this way as a bandaid. You'll cause more problems than you'll be helping. If pressure fluctuations suddenly become stable, you've got a leaking o-ring in the pickup tube to the oil pump.

[dustyak79]

28 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

Get a real gauge hooked directly to where the sending unit lives - see if the pressure is indeed actually fluctuating. To test to see of that o-ring is leaking will cost you a couple extra quarts. Overfill the crankcase by 2 quarts just to test - DON"T leave it this way as a bandaid. You'll cause more problems than you'll be helping. If pressure fluctuations suddenly become stable, you've got a leaking o-ring in the pickup tube to the oil pump.

How long would you recommend max running time with it over full? I’m assuming not running it under load as I well?

[Jsdirt]

You could let it idle as long as you need to, to check oil pressure and confirm it's not fluctuating. No need to drive, or rev it up above idle speed. The shorter the better, but letting it idle for 20 minutes shouldn't hurt a thing. Shouldn't take that long anyway.

[dustyak79]

Thank you I will try that his weekend. I miss Solid front axels with the prospect of having to drop that pan.

[Jsdirt]

No problem. Yeah, I hear you there. Nothing is easy anymore.

 

I removed the pan from a '96 Tahoe just by disconnecting both engine mounts, and using a cherry picker to lift the engine up as high as I needed to clear the front diff assembly. Just have to keep an eye out for overstretched wires, hoses, or A/C lines - don't go too far, in other words.