Jump to content

Coolant Leak?


firecadet613

Recommended Posts

Posted

Alright, I'll admit it. I'm over anal about my truck. But who here isn't right :cheers: ? Anyways the mechanics who installed my engine made multiple mistakes, and I kinda think its sucking down some coolant now. What I need to know is if my engine is eating coolant would the coolant level be going down fairly quick in the overflow resovior, or could it be very little and only slightly noticable.

 

Joe

Posted
Alright, I'll admit it. I'm over anal about my truck. But who here isn't right :cheers: ? Anyways the mechanics who installed my engine made multiple mistakes, and I kinda think its sucking down some coolant now. What I need to know is if my engine is eating coolant would the coolant level be going down fairly quick in the overflow resovior, or could it be very little and only slightly noticable.

 

Joe

Ummm simple answer.

 

If its a bad leak, then yes...you will notice alot very quickly.

If its a small leak, then yes... you will notice a very small amount gone.

 

If your worried, keep an eye on your oil.

Posted

LOL got the answer I figured but was hoping it wouldn't be. If it's leaking coolant internally I should be able to tell by looking at the oil on the dipstick right? It'll be more watery right? I just changed the oil and had to pull my intake plenum to remove the intake manifold bolts and put some sealant on them so it can't suck down any oil, mechanics didn't do that :cheers: and it used more than 1qt in the last 3K miles before the oil change. Oil level appears fine but I'll know for sure when I get to work and check it after work, got the same level parking spot there :sleep:.

 

Hey Z71 Guy got any pics of your truck? Sounds like exactly the one I want to get.

Posted

:cheers:

 

On another note the coolant level checks out ok, down a tiny bit in the resovior but I took the cap off the radiator the other day and a tad came out.

 

Joe

Posted

Just got back from a quick weekend trip to Indianapolis. Oil Level appears to be ok and not going down at all, that includes some highway trips of about 80 miles each way. Looks like it was the intake manifold bolts not being sealed created the oil usage. I pulled them and sealed them up the other day, pulled out each bolt in the intake plenum one by one and sealed them, with Permatex #2, and reinstalled torqueing to specs before moving on to the next bolt so my intake would not shift. Now it appears that the coolant level is dropping some. It does not appear to be leaking externally which leads me to believe my engines eating it. It has gotten colder out here in Denver. It was in the 80’s last week and has been in the 20s and 30s since then. The coolant level in the reservoir was right above the ADD lettering on the side but has appeared to drop to the middle of the ADD lettering now. Is it eating it or most likely just going into the system due to the temperature change? What’s the best way for me to check and see if I have a coolant leak internally, pressure test it while its cold?

 

Joe

Posted

If your coolant level only dropped alittle bit, its probably due to the system burping excess air trapped in the coolant passages during the first repair, and during your intake fix. I would keep track of it for another few days to a week. If it drops excessively, then you will need to have the system pressure tested to determine where the leak is at. If it doesn't drop or drops very little, I wouldn't worry about it since it does take a few drive cycles for the entire system to be bled of air.

Posted
If your coolant level only dropped alittle bit, its probably due to the system burping excess air trapped in the coolant passages during the first repair, and during your intake fix. I would keep track of it for another few days to a week. If it drops excessively, then you will need to have the system pressure tested to determine where the leak is at. If it doesn't drop or drops very little, I wouldn't worry about it since it does take a few drive cycles for the entire system to be bled of air.

:sigh:

Posted

CoolCool. I'm parking it in the same exact spot on the driveway now and will for the next few weeks. Also used a washable marker and marked the line on the overflow bottle that the coolant was at this morning, I'll keep you posted.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
    • Brought my 2015 Colorado into the dealership to check my touch screen issues, had that ghost touch thing happening. They said I needed a new touch screen and they could either order me one for $500. The lady at the service deck was nice enough to tell me I could order a touch screen online for less, she did stipulate that the touch screen had to be factory OEM, you can't pair an aftermarket screen to my radio seeing it was 2015, it had to be a GM factory OEM only. I found a few on Amazon and Ebay by the numbers on the back of the old screen, DJ080PA-01A GM# 22740886, Some said "OEM" in the description and others just said "Replacement". Would a replacement be the same as a OEM as long as it had the same numbers on the back of the screen? In some of the descriptions they also show different brand names but same numbers, is that an issue?  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...