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Tailgate removal

boxer44

By boxer44
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boxer44 New Member

boxer44

Posted
Posted

Bought a 2024 Chevy 2500HD Custom with electric tailgate.  I want to haul a Truck Camper but can't figure out how to remove tailgate to slide in the camper.  Tailgate remains off when camper is on truck.  Does anyone know what I lose bedsides the backup camera.  I know I have to unplug it, same as my 2015, but it looks like another wire as well and i don't want to lose lights.  It does not have the multi-camera surround, only the back up camera.  But the tailgate unlocks and lowers with the remote.  I can find older videos, but nothing on the newer trucks ...  thanks ... BD

Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted

I assume it hasn’t changed from the 2021 which I have. 
 

Open the tailgate

 

Get underneath and visually follow the wires that come out of the bottom of the tailgate to the big connector and the little connector. Cut the two or three plastic wire ties securing those wires to the body. 

 

Disconnect the big rectangular connector by swinging the gray lever on the connector. 

 

Disconnect the FAKRA connector for the camera. 
 

Free up the two bundles so they are ready to slide out when you take the tailgate off. 
 

Call your strongest friend. Then get a third person to manage the wires. 
 

Figure out what you are going to set the tailgate on after you finally wriggle it loose and your arms are weak and trembling. 
 

Have the third person get in the bed. 
 

Disconnect the tailgate support cables from the tail light area, making sure to have someone support the tailgate before disconnecting the last one. Tape them safely out of the way so they don’t scratch anything. 
 

Look at the right hinge to eyeball the correct angle to release the right hinge. Lift the tailgate to that angle and disengage the right hinge. 
 

Lift the tailgate to a nearly closed position to unload the internal torsion spring and then, remaining at that high angle, lift the right side of the tailgate up and down slightly while the second person at the left side holds tailgate ready to catch it when the left hinge disengages and watches the progress in working the hinge loose. Both of you push the tailgate to the right as you rock it. It takes a lot of force and working it up and down to get it to finally work free, but you want it to be under control when it finally pops free so you don’t ding anything. This will take several minutes, and you might want to review with your strong friend what expletives are and aren’t appropriate depending on who your third person is. 
 

When it finally comes free, slowly pull it away from the truck giving the third person time and room to work the wires free. 
 

Subsequent removals are much easier because the left hinge loosens up a little.  Putting it back on is much easier too. 
 

You can buy a replacement camera to put on the back of your camper and get your backup camera view back. 

2023A96A-53DB-4FA5-B691-FA74EAA3BDA3.jpeg

Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted

As far as what you lose, tailgate removal itself only causes you to lose the tailgate camera, which can be replaced with a camper camera. If your truck camper covers the bumper, you would lose any park assist and rear cross traffic warnings, if equipped, because the camper obstructs the sensors. Similarly, even if your camper is bed length, wiring it to the truck via the trailer connector will also defeat park assist and cross traffic because the truck thinks a trailer is connected and is too smart for its own good. Wiring to the trailer connector is probably ok if your camper covers the bumper, but if you have a bed length camper and it has running lights, you can retain the truck safety features by splicing into the truck running light circuit instead.
 

You will probably want a separate heavy set of wires for camper battery charging. I ran 6 awg positive and negative from the engine compartment to a dc to dc charger in the camper. 

boxer44 New Member

boxer44

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for info, both of you.  I didn't want to attempt this without a little experienced posts.  I knew it would be more than just opening it and pulling it out like the 2015.  Sound like you are correct about the similar 2021 and this 2024 with all the electronic stuff.  I just might relocate some of it, but have been driving for over fifty years without it, so if the truck loses it when the camper is on, I'll just remember the old days ... Thanks again guys !!    B44

 

BTW:  This truck came with a 110v plug in the bed.  So, I can probably just plug in a regular battery charger when on the road and hook it direct to the battery - and charge while driving.  It's faster than the onboard charger anyway.  

Edited by boxer44
Another JR Senior Enthusiast

Another JR

Posted
Posted

A typical camper-installed converter/charger like the DLS-30 will overload that outlet in bulk charging at 30 amps.  The truck outlet is rated for 400 watts and doesn’t like inrush current demands above its continuous rating. A 20 amp or less charger may be ok. 

  • 1 year later...
jake111 Enthusiast

jake111

Posted
Posted

The tailgate removal description by Another JR sounds familiar to what I did for my 2024 2500HD WT.

 

For my 2007 Lance 835 I ran the charge/running/ground from the front left of the camper to the rear and then just plugged into the 7-way trailer connector.  I had added brake/taillights to the camper because the truck taillights are slightly obscured, and spliced that into the wires going into the 7-way.  There are other ways, of course.  At first, I didn't think it was charging the camper battery very well, but now I think it's sufficient (likely takes a few hours of driving).

 

I also bought from camerasource.com: License Plate, Mini Mount Camera, Fits 2024 GM Work Truck, Cab Chassis, 2500,3500  SKU: CS-24GMHD-LP   It plugged right in and worked.

 

I had to turn off any sensors looking out the back because I have a bike rack and the sensors don't it.

 

I went from a 2004 Silverado to this new truck.  The width at the tailgate is narrower on the new truck and seems like I only had 1/4" clearance on each side.  I put the camper jacks on home-made rollers so I could shift the camper right-left as I backed to load it.  Later, I found they make automotive dollies which is what I will buy the next time this comes up.

 

The new 2500HD carries my camper WAY nicer than my old 3500 Duramax!  Smoother and more stable.

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