Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently replaced my starter on my '06 GMC Sierra, and it was working fine. Fast forward a few weeks, and the thermostat went out and I replaced that. I drove the truck 4-5 times after that without issue. Then when I went to start it up, I get good power on the interior lights. The battery is brand new as well. No corrosion on the terminals or cables. But I have a dead key when trying to crank it over. No clicking from the starter or anything from under the hood. I think that maybe the coolant that leaked out while changing the thermostat may have shorted out the starter solenoid, but was wondering what your opinion was.

Posted

Thank you. Will anywhere on the engine work? Should I ground it to the frame or the motor?

Posted (edited)

No luck. I'm going to try and ground the starter directly to the battery and see if that does the trick. I remember having to do that to a Toyota I had a long time ago when I was having starter issues.

Edited by JamesMR
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Update: The battery was weak, but after fully charging it, I still get the same results at the key. I have been able to bypass the ignition switch by jumping the two posts on the starter with a screwdriver while someone turns the key. The engine tries to crank, but won't turn all the way over and start. I'm not sure if it's a bad starter (even though it's brand new), an electrical issue somewhere between the key and the starter itself, a timing issue, plug issue, or a combination of some/all of these things. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Posted
On 4/29/2024 at 11:48 AM, JamesMR said:

The engine tries to crank, but won't turn all the way over and start. 

How fast is the engine spinning? If it is turning fast and strong then the starter is fine. 

 

On 4/29/2024 at 11:48 AM, JamesMR said:

I'm not sure if it's a bad starter (even though it's brand new),

Could be.

 

On 4/29/2024 at 11:48 AM, JamesMR said:

an electrical issue somewhere between the key and the starter itself,

Maybe.

 

On 4/29/2024 at 11:48 AM, JamesMR said:

a timing issue, plug issue, or a combination of some/all of these things.

Nope.

Posted

So when I use the screwdriver to bypass the ignition, the engine spins at what I would consider normal. Maybe slightly on the slower side, but it should be fast enough for the engine to turn over and start. I wouldn't say it's sluggish. But it is still dead at the key switch. I replaced the starter relay in the fuse box with the one from the lights which I know is good and it's still a dead key. If you could tell me the most likely culprit from this info and the best way to trouble shoot it from here, I'd be very appreciative.

Posted

I'd use a test light at the starter solenoid if its getting power when ignition switch is used. If it doesn't light, I'd consider the ignition switch.

Posted

After some extensive trouble shooting, It appears that the anti-theft has engaged and has the electrical system shut down. (the battery had died) I didn't notice the car with a lock indicator on it until this week. I have tried every trick I could find online to reset the anti-theft (turned the key on for 10 minutes, then off, on for 10 minutes then off, etc..., turned the key in the door to unlock for 1 minute, turned the key to on for 1 hour) and nothing is working. I was told that there could be an issue with the ignition switch itself. At this point, I'm ready to just take it in for a diagnostic and find out the cause from a professional. Unless anyone here has any other suggestions.

Posted

If the keys are original a theft issue would be less likely than a bad switch.

 

If it is the start position of the switch, you should be able to put it the run position and jump the starter and the truck will run. 

 

How have you ruled out the starter solenoid? 

 

A random other failure following a starter replacement would be awfully coincidental.

Posted

I tested the starter solenoid and it spins the gear and when in the run position, I can indeed "jump" the starter and force it to engage the gear with the engine. It will crank at a very fast pace as if trying to start, but it acts like it's not getting any gas or spark at the coils. This is what led me to believe that the antitheft has the engine "shut down." You can hear the solenoid kick on when you hit the key to the on position, but it does not get power to crank the starter. Also of note, I tried to run a code reader on the truck to see if I got anything from the computer and it is dead as well. Not getting any readings whatsoever. 

Posted
5 hours ago, JamesMR said:

Also of note, I tried to run a code reader on the truck to see if I got anything from the computer and it is dead as well. Not getting any readings whatsoever. 

Have you checked all fuses?

 

Is there no power at the OBDII port?

Posted

I only checked the fuse for the starter itself to be honest. I had a relay for the lights that I know is working and just swapped it for the starter relay. Still nothing, so the relay for the starter is good, but still no power. I will go through and test the other fuses. Any idea of which would be the best place to start checking? Also, there was no power at the OBDII port. the key is on, I have power to the accessories in the truck, but a reader shows nothing at all. I will try a different reader though. I just remembered the one I tried was brand new and from Harbor Freight. For all I know the reader wasn't even working.

Posted

I had two different fuses for the interior aux (cigar lighter and aux power) that were blown. replaced them and got power back to the OBD2 port. It just gives me an error message. Like the reader can't get a code from it. Not sure what that means. I just need a better reader I think.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,127 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...