Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I’ve recently added 4.56 gears to my 2017 Sierra 1500 and while camping this past weekend I was making a left hand turn at a slow speed while in 4 wheel high and I heard some weird noises. Quick research online says it is binding. I was on a dirt road when this happened. Is there anything I need to do or was this just a result of having too much traction when in 4 wheel high? Do I need to take it in to have my truck looked at? 

Posted

Really tight turns even on gravel can cause binding in 4WD, It's why I always keep it in 4AUTO unless I know I may get stuck stuck.

Posted (edited)

Nothing wrong, typical operation. Probably should not have needed 4wd HI. AUTO more applicable.

From GM info......

 

"Using the 4WD modes (4HI, 4LO, 4HI Lock, 4LO Lock) will usually increase noise in the axles, transfer case and the rest of the driveline and is usually greater at higher speeds and will usually increase the more the vehicle is turned. As the vehicle turns, the front and rear axles follow a different arc. When this occurs, the only place to compensate for this binding is between the contact patch of the tires and the ground. This can feel like the vehicle is vibrating, crow hopping or grabbing. Even if the vehicle is driven in a straight line, there are slight differences in tire circumference that will cause some driveline binding. If a vehicle had the exact same size tires and was driven in a perfectly straight line, the fact that more parts are moving would mean that there would be more noise and possibly some feel of the system operating."

 

"Use of 4HI or 4LO and 4HI Lock or 4LO Lock on Full-time 4WD is intended for use on a low traction surface such as snow, ice, mud or sand. On a low traction surface, the differences in front and rear axle speeds will not have as much effect on binding because of the lower traction levels between the surface and the contact patch of the tires. On a high traction surface, the higher traction levels will create more binding and noise in the driveline."

 

Ps- Been driving a 4wd since 1972...........

Edited by elcamino

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks @newdude, guess I'll keep looking.  Test driving so many trucks that have obvious things broken, I'm thinking "if they couldn't even be bothered to fix the power seat," what else is broken".   Just drove a 2021 where the power seat motor was grinding/binding and wouldn't do anything but make a terrible sound.   An owner that puts dents on the bumper, doesn't fix a seat motor, and had spotty service intervals (along with missing major services) doesn't give me the best of confidence.   Amazed at the number of people that will finance a $60k+ truck, run it into the ground, then trade with a loan balance (every single one had "loan/lien reported" on the CARFAX at the last year of registration).
    • Not true! I have been runing them since 2006 F250! suspension component that works as a sway bar, a traction bar, and a helper spring points directly to the RoadActive Suspension (RAS) kit. Works as a sway bar, a traction bar, and a helper spring.
    • Here's a starter kit:    CC Jensen, a Danish oil testing Concern gives us the following guidelines:   ISO 14/12/10 Very Clean Oil ISO 16/14/11 Clean Oil ISO 17/15/12 Lightly Contaminated ISO 19/17/14 New Oil ISO 22/20/17 Very Contaminated and not suitable for any service.   In addition CC Jensen gives a table showing how engine life is increased by cleaning up the oil. For example cleaning the oil from 19/17/14 to 13/11/8 will extend motor life by a factor of 6X.   But even cleaning it two “Life Extension Classes” will double motor life. So perhaps giving those classes would be useful:   21/19/16 20/18/15 19/17/14 18/16/13 17/15/12 16/14/11 15/13/10 14/12/9 13/11/8   *************************************   https://testoil.com/program-management/setting-iso-cleanliness-targets/   Third paragraph from the bottom will give a starting point.    Your next question should be, okay 10um at what Beta ratio and the answer is in the graph Beta 75.   Then the next question is what is your chosen filters profile? (Purolator PL series below) The red dot is Beta 75. This was the information I obtained from MANN a few years ago. So the best filters, Purolator One, AMSOIL EA, FRAM Ultra, Royal Purple, Bosch Premium should get a doubling engine life over filters like Purolator L, any service filter from any quick lube, WIX, NAPA, STP, Mobil 1, Purolator BOSS.    And as noted by CC Jensen a 2-5 micron @ Beta 200 bypass system has the capability of a six fold improvement. AMSOIL has such a system as does Donaldson.       Now having said all that testing is the touchstone. Test the oil NEW and test it with your chosen filter. Then test over milage. Do the work, get the result. But understand this in NOT absolute BECAUSE this is one factor in isolation.   Example:    A valve spring supplier can state that with cam X and a valve train of Y grams the valves will not float to 7K rpm. is that true if the builder choose a system 20 grams over limit? Common sense must be used and limits understood. 
    • This doesn't look like a GM truck. Not needed on a HD truck
    • It varies a ton around me. Some places are still at $5.00 or higher and others are way down into the $4's.   Offroad diesel was $4.02 at the one station I passed today.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...