Jump to content

Brake shudder on take off


Recommended Posts

Posted

I did a search and couldn't find anything on this so here goes. When I come to complete stop using heavy braking (no abs) when I take off the rear end shudders. This only happens when I stop hard so i don't think it's in the driveline, it almost feels like the axle is under load (like reveres axle wrap) and when I release the brakes it unloads and makes noise and the truck shudders while I take off. Has anyone had this happen? I will recheck the wheel lugs to see if thats it but I'm just looking for more info, the truck is still under warrenty so if its anything major I want to get it in (when it's at the dealer they can also fix the clunk/rattle in the steering column).

 

 

Thanks for your time,

Bob :jester:

Posted

Do you have a locker in it or a two piece driveshaft? Some times that can cause it and it is normal. Give more info on what truck you have

Posted

Base model 1500, single piece driveshaft and open diff. Auto trans, 4.8L with the soft ride package (I think thats what it's called).The truck is all stock but I have Bridgestone Deuler Revo tires.

 

Need any more?

 

Thanks again,

Bob

Posted

sounds like the rear calipers ae over heating and not fully releasing could be faulty calipers or oversized tires, may need to be looked at. :jester:

Posted

Your explanation of reverse axle wrap sounds like a pretty good diagnosis to me.

 

What happens if you release the brakes for a second. Does the truck feel like it settles a little?

Posted

It feels like the rear end drops down alittle when I release the brakes, but I will check it tonight. I don't think its a faulty caliper because when I put the new tires on (I mounted and balanced them) I looked at the pads both inside and outside pads look good, also this shudder will happen at the first stop sign in the morning so the caliper is cold. The tires are 255/70-16 which I was told was a OEM size so I don't think its oversized tires.

 

I don't have a lift kit or an add-a-leaf just all stock leafs and shocks.I added the tires and I tow a 3000 pound trailer and have a fourwheeler in the bed, but I have only towed the trailer 3 times.

 

Thanks for all the replys and comments,

Bob :jester:

Posted

I know exactly what you're talking about. Mine does it too. It's normal. It's especially evident after a firm stop. It's a combination of the brakes releasing, the transmission engaging and the drivetrain slack being taken up (or release of the reverse axle wrap). I've learned that, after a firm stop, if I let the brakes go for a second and roll forward a foot or two (if possible) everything settles into place and my launch is much smoother. Or, when you get a green light, let the brakes go for a second to let everything engage, then hit the thottle. It's not hurting anything. :jester:

Posted

Ok, so only two people on this forum have experienced this? Do you guys think that if I did something to control axle wrap it would help control this?

 

Thanks again for the help,

Bob :jester:

Posted

My brother had a 1999 new body style Z-71 that did this since new. He took it into the shop so many times they got really sh*tty with him and he ended up selling the truck. They had swapped out shocks, springs, u-joints, driveline and could not resolve it.

 

I have a 1999 K1500 old body style that has begun doing this. It is annoying. My truck began doing it after getting the rear axle diff bearings replaced. The shop busted my tire on the rack so they gave me a new one. The new tire is ofcourse taller than the other 3 that are nearing needing replacement. I am beginning o wonder if it is the locker in my rear axle making this due to the difference in tire OD's on each side. Driver side has new tire - Pass side has worn tire. I think I am going to move the new tire to one of the front corners and see if that helps.

Posted

I have the same problem on my 04 Sierra and it almost feels like there is too much backlash between the ring&pinion gears. From doing a hard stop and taking off or any little hills where the truck can coast and then you get back on the gas there is a clunk in the rear. I'm gonna have to call the dealership and see what they say about it.

 

By the way, I dont mean to get off topic but the steering shaft in my Sierra has a lot of play in it, anyone know if there is a TSB on this or should I just add this too the list to tell the dealership to check out? Thanks.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...