Jump to content

inertia vs time based brake controllers


Recommended Posts

Posted

NEED SOME HELP PICKED UP MY 04 2500HD D/A CC

NEED TO GET BRAKE CONTROLLER JUST WONDERING

WHAT ONE IS BETTER THE INERTIA ONE OR THE TIME

RELEASED ON I HEARD THAT THE INERTIA ONE DOES

NOT WORK THAT GOOD IF YOUR TRUCK DONT NOSE DIVE

ALOT ANY HELP PLEASE :puke:

Posted
NEED SOME HELP PICKED UP MY 04 2500HD D/A CC

NEED TO GET BRAKE CONTROLLER JUST WONDERING

WHAT ONE IS BETTER THE INERTIA ONE OR THE TIME

RELEASED ON I HEARD THAT THE INERTIA ONE DOES

NOT WORK THAT GOOD IF YOUR TRUCK DONT NOSE DIVE

ALOT ANY HELP PLEASE :puke:

I used to use an inertia based controller (Tekosha). For the past couple of years I have used a wire based controller: Jordan's Ultima 2020. This is an excellent controller. In fact, I have just received a new 2020 for my soon to arrive 2005.

 

You basically attach a wire to your break pedal which then modulates the controller. Your trailer responds like your truck. You press harder, it gets more, etc. You come to a stop light and release the pedal slightly, you can see how it backs off on the Amperage against the trailer. It is, in concept, identical to controllers that rely on brake line pressure to modulate trailer brakes. The differences are (a) you do not tap into your brake lines and (b) it still works even if your truck's brake line pressure goes low.

 

This may have been fixed since, but in my 93 truck there is no distinct brake signal. Instead, a traditional controller taps into the brake signal lead. As you press your brake pedal and cross a magic threshold, your truck's brake switch bleeds 12V to the brake lights. This alerts a traditional brake controller you want to brake. The settings on the controller determines how much juice to send and a pendulum may help the controller how soon to react. Unfortunately, this also means your trailer brakes go bananas if you try to use your hazard lights on steep climbs as this produces a fake signal for the brake controller when your brake lights flash on and off. I do not have this problem with the Ultima.

 

Search for Ultima 2020 on the web and you'll find lots of info about it.

Posted

I've never had a controller that works as good as the Prodigy. It's not like the Ultima, in the respect that you directly hook a connection to your brake pedal, but it does seem to modulate itself quite well.

 

And just a bit of information for ya... capital letters are frowned upon in all forums and newsgroups. It constitutes shouting, so it's best to use proper case. And some punctuation might make your posts a little easier to read too. :D

Posted

Tekonasha Prodigy all the way! Best brake controller ive ever used. I like it because it doesn't require you to level it. If you buy more than one wiring harness and cradle you can "plug and play" and use it in more than one vehicle. Another good feture of it, it will hold the breaks on when you are stopped. It also brakes proportionally in reverse. Unlike most inertia controllers, you can control the intial "surge" of power to the brakes. This gives you a more naturual stop when towing heavier loads. Make sure you get the GM wiring harness. This harness doesn't require any cutting or splicing of wires, just plug it into the fuse box.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 418 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...