Jump to content

Door panel removal problems...

GMCSierra04

Recommended Posts

GMCSierra04 Enthusiast

GMCSierra04

Posted
Posted

Hi, I was trying to put on my painted door handles on my Sierra and I found a site that had a good write up on the R/R of the panels but the thing that is stopping me is the door lock switch/window switch panel. I can get the back part popped off but the front is being a bear! I dont want to break the plastic or damage anything so I figured I'd post and see if anyone had any "special" tips on getting it off or anything on the whole procedure. I really appreciate any help!

 

Thanks,

Zack

DustinM Enthusiast

DustinM

Posted
Posted

just did mine last week, the window and lock pad pops of seperate of the door panel which i believe if i understand correctly is where you are having the problem... the plastic tabs have a metal insert on them and if you pull to hard they will slide off the tab and stay on the panel, but they can be put back on the tab afterwards... hope this helps and makes sense. Dustin

mdub Enthusiast

mdub

Posted
Posted

I understand your issue, as I went through the same scenario. When removing my '03 door panels, I referred to a nice internet write-up that explained the procedure for removing '99-'02 door panels. I assumed the procedure was the same for my '03. On the drivers side, I ended up breaking the tabs that you mentioned, only to find out the newer door panels don't require the removal of the switch panel. In fact, there is no correct way to remove the switch panel from the top by pulling -- the fastening screws for the window/lock switch panel can only be accessed from the underside of the door panel after removal. Leave the switches attached to the door panel, and simply unplug the electrical connectors once you have the door panel partially removed. Don't do as I did and break the holding tabs!

 

As I recall, the procedure is the same as the '99-'02 trucks, with the exception of the window/lock switch panel. You'll be surprised/impressed how easy it is to remove the door panels.

DustinM Enthusiast

DustinM

Posted
Posted
I understand your issue, as I went through the same scenario.  When removing my '03 door panels, I referred to a nice internet write-up that explained the procedure for removing '99-'02 door panels.  I assumed the procedure was the same for my '03.  On the drivers side, I ended up breaking the tabs that you mentioned, only to find out the newer door panels don't require the removal of the switch panel.  In fact, there is no correct way to remove the switch panel from the top by pulling -- the fastening screws for the window/lock switch panel can only be accessed from the underside of the door panel after removal.  Leave the switches attached to the door panel, and simply unplug the electrical connectors once you have the door panel partially removed.  Don't do as I did and break the holding tabs! 

 

As I recall, the procedure is the same as the '99-'02 trucks, with the exception of the window/lock switch panel.  You'll be surprised/impressed how easy it is to remove the door panels.

 

 

 

 

I stand corrected...i figured it would be the same for the '03-'04s as well.

carguru Senior Enthusiast

carguru

Posted
Posted

For the '04, you will have either 2 screws (one under the door lock, the other at the bottom corner of the arm rest) or 3 screws and a push plug (2 screws in locations mentioned plus 1 screw under the rounded cap towards the latch side of the door panel and a push plug towards the hinge side of the door handle). Don't try to pry the window/lock control panel off. It will only break the trim piece, as already mentioned.

GMCSierra04 Enthusiast

GMCSierra04

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Awesome guys!!! Thanks so much for the responses, I know they will save me a lot of grief on my next attempt. So basically the best way to get the door panel off is to take off the arm rest screw, then begin to pull up from the bottom of the panel to gain enough space to get to the second screw behind the switches? This sound about right to you all? I should be alright now, I will post some pictures when I get them installed on the truck. I really appreciate all the help again!

carguru Senior Enthusiast

carguru

Posted
Posted

No, remove the arm rest screw, pry the door lock slider out and remove the second screw here only. Don't mess with the control panel. There is no screw here securing the door panel to the door. This is an example of the later style door panel and screw/plug locations. If you don't have the plug and the cover in location for screw #3 and plug, you only have the 2 screws in the other 2 locations.

 

currentdp.jpg

 

If you remove these screws, the door panel will slide right up and then you can unplug the connectors.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined

  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 602 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...