Jump to content

TSB for steering clunk


Recommended Posts

Posted

My 03 2wd ust developed the steering clunk at 9000 miles. I know a ton has been posted on this topic and I searched through the information but I did not see a link to the TSB about replacing the intermediate steering shaft.

 

Can anyone email it to me or post it here so I can print it out? Are the dealers replacing the intermediate shaft on the 03s or are they just lubing them up? I would like to get it fixed right the first time and don't want to get the run around from the dealer.

Posted

The dealer knows about the problem. The shafts are on Backorder for 6 weeeks. It is a known problem. Take the truck to the dealer and if the shaft is the problem they will put you in line with everyone else to get it replaced. I just went thru the same thing and I am waiting for a call from the dealer when shafts get in stock.

Posted

here's the tsb

Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can be Felt in Steering Wheel (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly) #00-02-35-003F - (Aug 4, 2004)

Clunking Noise Under Hood and can be felt in Steering Wheel (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)

2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

 

2003 Cadillac Escalade ESV

 

1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado

 

2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe

 

2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche

 

1999-2003 GMC Sierra

 

2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL

 

2003 HUMMER H2

 

(Affected vehicles include both 2WD and 4WD vehicles).

 

This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer / TrailBlazer EXT, GMC Envoy / Envoy XL / Envoy XUV or Oldsmobile Bravada. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A for Mid-Size Utilities.

 

This bulletin is being revised to include two-wheel drive vehicles and clarify vehicle usage. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003E (Section 02 -- Steering).

 

Condition

Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

 

Correction

Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.

 

Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.

 

Notice

On 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 Steering Column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing these steering columns. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.

 

 

Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior vehicles.

 

 

 

Install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.

 

 

 

From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.

Slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.

For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, do the following steps.

Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.

Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.

Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so that the intermediate shaft can be removed.

 

 

 

 

From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.

Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.

From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.

From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.

Replace the upper intermediate shaft. See the parts table below.

Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.

Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.

Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten

Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).

 

Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten

Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).

 

For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, do the following steps.

Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.

Install the two retaining nuts. Tighten

Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

 

Reposition the carpet back into place.

Parts Information

Part Number

Description

Qty

 

88963611

Shaft, Upper Intermediate Shaft

 

Use on all 1500 Series trucks:

 

Except Escalades

 

Except Denalis

 

Except Avalanches

1

 

89060582

Shaft, Upper Intermediate Shaft

 

Use on all 2500 and 3500 Series Trucks and

 

Escalades

 

Denalis

 

Avalanches

 

H2

Posted
Notice

On 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 Steering Column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing these steering columns. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.

 

 

Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior vehicles.

 

 

 

Install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.

 

Does anyone know what this J 42640 pin is and more importantly if you can make a makeshift one? Also where is the steering column lower access hole?

 

Thanks!

Posted

Can someone describe this condition, I think my truck may have this. Here is what I am feeling. On mine I feel every bump in the road through the steering wheel especially when going around corners, kind like the shaft is loose or has some play in it. It doesn't really clunk, maybe more like a tap. May just be in the begining stages. I'll see if it gets worse over time. BTW 2002 GMC Sierra Z71 about 27K miles

Posted
Can someone describe this condition, I think my truck may have this. Here is what I am feeling. On mine I feel every bump in the road through the steering wheel especially when going around corners, kind like the shaft is loose or has some play in it. It doesn't really clunk, maybe more like a tap. May just be in the begining stages. I'll see if it gets worse over time. BTW 2002 GMC Sierra Z71 about 27K miles

 

 

 

Welcome to the club! YOu got it....

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    343,007
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Brendan C
    Newest Member
    Brendan C
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,025 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks for posting, I'm sure it will help someone
    • New to diesel trucks. I happened to find my oil cooler leaking oil externally with only 4,000 miles on the truck. I didn’t realize this was an issue until I started researching it. Dealer is going to replace it under warranty but I’m wondering if there’s anything GM is working on to fix this issue. I’ve heard the oil filter used is the same as they use on their V6 motors and that’s what is causing the problems. Should I switch to a bigger filter or keep using the OEM recommended? 
    • So, GMCustomerService:  Judging by the Update History pictured above, is this truck missing any updates that it actually needs. If it's just for the infotainment system, the radio is working fine and no trouble with SeriusXM. and Android Auto is working fine wirelessly with my phone. Some months ago, an update notice was sent to my truck. I approved the update and it finished saying that the update was successful, but it seems that whatever that update was, it didn't actually get installed - at least not if I'm to go by the Update History shown above.   So, again, are there any updates that this truck really should have? I've checked with my dealer but they're reluctant or commit to anything and if I want them to check, they require a $200.00 fee just to check it out and then I'd have to pay for the actual update(s).    Ignorance is bliss, and if none of the updates goes to fixing any mechanical discrepancies, I'll just leave things as is.  
    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...