Jump to content

K1500 Chronic problems and fixes

cit1991

Recommended Posts

cit1991 Enthusiast

cit1991

Posted
Posted

My 2000 K1500 (Z71, with 115,000 miles) seems to have had a few problems that are very common. I just thought I'd post them and the fixes in case anyone else out there has similar symptoms.

 

1. Driveline clunk. Fixed by changing the transfer case fluid with AutoTrack II fluid twice. Has not reappeared in the 40,000 miles since.

 

2. Sticky throttle. Still there. Fix by cleaning the throttle body once per year.

 

3. Gurgle from the heater. Caused by cooling system not pressurizing. Fixed by replacing radiator cap.

 

4. Metallic clank from the rear end going over bumps. Damper washers not installed in helper spring ends. Fixed by installing larger isolators that cover the whole end of the helper springs.

 

5. Tapping at startup. Still there for about the first 10 seconds.

 

6. Driveline vibration under engine load. Fixed by replacing the u-joints that were beyond shot (100,000 miles).

 

7. Haphazard parking prake and pedal that went to the floor. Fixed by replacing the parking brake shoes, one of which was completely worn out, taking the mini-drum with it.

 

8. Steering shaft sticking, and causing a rubbing feel in the steering wheel when the body flexed. Fixed by shooting a little spray oil into the slider under the dash. has not repeated.

 

9. Hard warm starting. Fixed by replacing fuel pressure regulator that had blown the diaphragm.

 

10. Broken tailgate cable. Replaced both.

 

11. Buzzing from the windshield above about 65MPH (less in a headwind). Fixed by gluing down the weatherstrips on both sides of the windshield.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 461 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • MANGOAL
      Mangoal or FitcamX OEM Dashcam?

      By MANGOAL · Posted

      Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • davester
      2002 GMC Yukon

      By davester · Posted

      There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • davester
      Weight limit in bed

      By davester · Posted

      Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • EJS2015
      Actual Full Screen CarPlay on Refreshed Silverado/Sierras.

      By EJS2015 · Posted

      Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...