Jump to content

Blown Switch Backlight Bulbs...


Recommended Posts

Posted

I keep reading on here about all the people who've had (or are having) problems with the backlight bulbs for the switches.

So far I've read about (in no perticlar order):

* Radio pushbuttons

* Seat heater switch in door

* Headlight switch

* HEater control buttons

* and a few others I can't recall...

 

Now, I just noticed the 'scan' switch in my steering wheel is a lot dimmer than the 'volume' switch right next to it. :D I presume the volume light is the only one that's still working, and it's scattering enough light to light up the scan switch slightly. I looked around a little and couldn't find any screws to pull out just the switch body. Anyone pulled one of these apart to see how to repair it? I'm tempted to change them all out with a white LED and a limit resistor, but I know that would be a real pain to do.

 

 

Is there something that's causing everyone to have all these problems with light bulbs?

 

Could this be related to the short lifespan of the DRLs?

 

Is some moron spec'ing 12V lamps for a system that typically runs at 13.5 to 14V?

 

Are these newer Hi-Amp alternators putting out a lot more voltage and blowing the lamps?

 

Should we be putting in a current limiting resistor somewhere to protect our bulbs from the abovementioned design flaw? At least limiting the voltage/current to the switch illumination?

 

Should we be running the dashlights at 60% bright instead of full on?

 

 

Sorry for going on a rant here folks, but I'm kind of pist that my fairly new pickup ('03 @ 14K mi) is already blowing bulbs. Granted, they're "only convenience" bulbs, but dagnabit, I want them to work! For a long time!!

I'm willing to bet the service dept won't cover it under warranty since it's a lowly light bulb and those are considered consumables like tires and brakes...

My '92 Z-71 took out one headlight and one underhood light in 160,000 miles! I can deal with that. What's up with these new trucks?

 

Thanks for listening, and thanks for any suggestions or comments,

Jim - 71GMC_3/4T

Posted
I'm willing to bet the service dept won't cover it under warranty since it's a lowly light bulb and those are considered consumables like tires and brakes...

 

 

 

 

 

You'd lose that bet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's one bet I'd be glad to lose! Thanks GM-Tech for the info. I'll wait until I'm almost out of warranty and have them fix any that have blown, and hope they hold up for the long run.

Posted
I keep reading on here about all the people who've had (or are having) problems with the backlight bulbs for the switches.

So far I've read about (in no perticlar order):

* Radio pushbuttons

* Seat heater switch in door

* Headlight switch

* HEater control buttons

* and a few others I can't recall...

 

Now, I just noticed the 'scan' switch in my steering wheel is a lot dimmer than the 'volume' switch right next to it.  :cheers: I presume the volume light is the only one that's still working, and it's scattering enough light to light up the scan switch slightly.  I looked around a little and couldn't find any screws to pull out just the switch body.  Anyone pulled one of these apart to see how to repair it?  I'm tempted to change them all out with a white LED and a limit resistor, but I know that would be a real pain to do.

 

 

Is there something that's causing everyone to have all these problems with light bulbs? 

 

Could this be related to the short lifespan of the DRLs?

 

Is some moron spec'ing 12V lamps for a system that typically runs at 13.5 to 14V?

 

Are these newer Hi-Amp alternators putting out a lot more voltage and blowing the lamps?

 

Should we be putting in a current limiting resistor somewhere to protect our bulbs from the abovementioned design flaw?  At least limiting the voltage/current to the switch illumination?

 

Should we be running the dashlights at 60% bright instead of full on?

 

 

Sorry for going on a rant here folks, but I'm kind of pist that my fairly new pickup ('03 @ 14K mi) is already blowing bulbs.  Granted, they're "only convenience" bulbs, but dagnabit, I want them to work!  For a long time!!

I'm willing to bet the service dept won't cover it under warranty since it's a lowly light bulb and those are considered consumables like tires and brakes...

My '92 Z-71 took out one headlight and one underhood light in 160,000 miles!  I can deal with that.  What's up with these new trucks?

 

Thanks for listening, and thanks for any suggestions or comments,

Jim - 71GMC_3/4T

 

 

 

I had the problem on my 05 dura max...with the lights out on the panel on the seat switches....What they finally found ,,,,believe this... they had to reset the computer and they came back on.... now a computer controlling the lights on switches etc.. wow... whats next.

Lindsey Webb

Posted

When I traded in a '96 Z71 with a 150K miles all backlights still worked. I never had them turned all the way up though . I ran the dash light dimmer at about three quarters otherwise the interior lights were too distracting. and it increases bulb life,

Posted

I noticed mine go full bright when you first start it when it's dark, then dim down to the setting. I think this full bright flash could be killing bulbs.

I got my service manuals yesterday and I've found where the supply comes from. It looks like I should be able to find the wire coming from the BCM and put a series limit resistor in to lower the current hopefully. That, or I might try to hack the BCM and see if there's anything I can modify inside.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Which one, the AT or AS?   Starfire is made by Cooper/Goodyear but at $85/tire I'd think I'd need to level-set my expectations that they may not even be round 😉 But you're saying they're decent?   I'm already into this thing $1506 in parts, fluids, etc. Totaled all my receipts today. $250 of that was replacing an EGR and MAP sensor that were probably fine, but I'm not going to return the parts since they've been installed. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I use it, I keep it!   I may or may not make money if I sell the truck at this point, but, that wasn't really the point. And if I billed my time, I'd be hosed for real. My thought on the tires is I "might" put 1,000 miles on before selling it. I just don't want to put absolute junk on it, that doesn't do anyone any good. If the Solus solidly isn't junk, I'll definitely consider them.        
    • I leave mine as is. I'm always a trip away from riding on unpaved roads. Dealer can clean it when they prep it after I trade it in for another new truck.
    • I have these on two vehicles and love them. Pepper is one of them 😉 
    • 4WD. Far as I know it came stock with P's and not LT's. Definitely planning to put P's on it, but stock is a 109 XL load rating so I should probably stick within that guideline.   No rebates on anything I can see at the moment. Discount Tire is offering $50 off, but Pep Boys is very competitive on price, and also carries all the off-brand stuff. Les Schwab always wants an arm/leg, but they do good work.   It still has the original spare. Goodyear Wrangler RT/S, thing looks like a tractor tire LOL!! How times have changed.    
    • 2020 Sierra 2500 HD (base model) gas engine 4wd.    All 4 windows roll down on their own. Happens somewhat randomly after stop and engine off - when engine turned off, when walking away from vehicle before or after locks activated. Pulled the window fuse F14 Instrument Panel Fuse Block Right; the driver's side still activates from driver's side door panel; passenger and back seat windows activate from local switches on their doors but not from driver's side group of switches. Power mirrors don't activate with fuse removed either (same fuse for both circuits). Problem not solved.    How can they even activate with fuse removed but they are all still opening and can control from each door?  When they open on their own, I can shut them from the switch in each door, but they don't stay closed.    Seems to be activated somehow with key fob; something bumping the key fob in my pocket or just handling - removed key fob and took it far enough away and now the windows stay closed. Replaced key fob batty just in case, no change.    Sounds like some kind of wiring short or maybe electronics. Dealer will first replace electronic control module without checking anything else and I anticipate problem will still exist since their troubleshooting skills are limited to "do whatever the computer says".  In any case, keyfob seems to be activating the circuitry.    Surely I'm not the only one with this issue, but I can't find anything related on the site. What do yall think?   JohnRoy  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...