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Blown Switch Backlight Bulbs...


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Posted

I keep reading on here about all the people who've had (or are having) problems with the backlight bulbs for the switches.

So far I've read about (in no perticlar order):

* Radio pushbuttons

* Seat heater switch in door

* Headlight switch

* HEater control buttons

* and a few others I can't recall...

 

Now, I just noticed the 'scan' switch in my steering wheel is a lot dimmer than the 'volume' switch right next to it. :D I presume the volume light is the only one that's still working, and it's scattering enough light to light up the scan switch slightly. I looked around a little and couldn't find any screws to pull out just the switch body. Anyone pulled one of these apart to see how to repair it? I'm tempted to change them all out with a white LED and a limit resistor, but I know that would be a real pain to do.

 

 

Is there something that's causing everyone to have all these problems with light bulbs?

 

Could this be related to the short lifespan of the DRLs?

 

Is some moron spec'ing 12V lamps for a system that typically runs at 13.5 to 14V?

 

Are these newer Hi-Amp alternators putting out a lot more voltage and blowing the lamps?

 

Should we be putting in a current limiting resistor somewhere to protect our bulbs from the abovementioned design flaw? At least limiting the voltage/current to the switch illumination?

 

Should we be running the dashlights at 60% bright instead of full on?

 

 

Sorry for going on a rant here folks, but I'm kind of pist that my fairly new pickup ('03 @ 14K mi) is already blowing bulbs. Granted, they're "only convenience" bulbs, but dagnabit, I want them to work! For a long time!!

I'm willing to bet the service dept won't cover it under warranty since it's a lowly light bulb and those are considered consumables like tires and brakes...

My '92 Z-71 took out one headlight and one underhood light in 160,000 miles! I can deal with that. What's up with these new trucks?

 

Thanks for listening, and thanks for any suggestions or comments,

Jim - 71GMC_3/4T

Posted
I'm willing to bet the service dept won't cover it under warranty since it's a lowly light bulb and those are considered consumables like tires and brakes...

 

 

 

 

 

You'd lose that bet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's one bet I'd be glad to lose! Thanks GM-Tech for the info. I'll wait until I'm almost out of warranty and have them fix any that have blown, and hope they hold up for the long run.

Posted
I keep reading on here about all the people who've had (or are having) problems with the backlight bulbs for the switches.

So far I've read about (in no perticlar order):

* Radio pushbuttons

* Seat heater switch in door

* Headlight switch

* HEater control buttons

* and a few others I can't recall...

 

Now, I just noticed the 'scan' switch in my steering wheel is a lot dimmer than the 'volume' switch right next to it.  :cheers: I presume the volume light is the only one that's still working, and it's scattering enough light to light up the scan switch slightly.  I looked around a little and couldn't find any screws to pull out just the switch body.  Anyone pulled one of these apart to see how to repair it?  I'm tempted to change them all out with a white LED and a limit resistor, but I know that would be a real pain to do.

 

 

Is there something that's causing everyone to have all these problems with light bulbs? 

 

Could this be related to the short lifespan of the DRLs?

 

Is some moron spec'ing 12V lamps for a system that typically runs at 13.5 to 14V?

 

Are these newer Hi-Amp alternators putting out a lot more voltage and blowing the lamps?

 

Should we be putting in a current limiting resistor somewhere to protect our bulbs from the abovementioned design flaw?  At least limiting the voltage/current to the switch illumination?

 

Should we be running the dashlights at 60% bright instead of full on?

 

 

Sorry for going on a rant here folks, but I'm kind of pist that my fairly new pickup ('03 @ 14K mi) is already blowing bulbs.  Granted, they're "only convenience" bulbs, but dagnabit, I want them to work!  For a long time!!

I'm willing to bet the service dept won't cover it under warranty since it's a lowly light bulb and those are considered consumables like tires and brakes...

My '92 Z-71 took out one headlight and one underhood light in 160,000 miles!  I can deal with that.  What's up with these new trucks?

 

Thanks for listening, and thanks for any suggestions or comments,

Jim - 71GMC_3/4T

 

 

 

I had the problem on my 05 dura max...with the lights out on the panel on the seat switches....What they finally found ,,,,believe this... they had to reset the computer and they came back on.... now a computer controlling the lights on switches etc.. wow... whats next.

Lindsey Webb

Posted

When I traded in a '96 Z71 with a 150K miles all backlights still worked. I never had them turned all the way up though . I ran the dash light dimmer at about three quarters otherwise the interior lights were too distracting. and it increases bulb life,

Posted

I noticed mine go full bright when you first start it when it's dark, then dim down to the setting. I think this full bright flash could be killing bulbs.

I got my service manuals yesterday and I've found where the supply comes from. It looks like I should be able to find the wire coming from the BCM and put a series limit resistor in to lower the current hopefully. That, or I might try to hack the BCM and see if there's anything I can modify inside.

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