Jump to content

4L80e Fluid Change


Recommended Posts

Posted

I bought 14 quarts of Amsoil ATF to change out my tranny fluid. I was planning on having Jiffy Lube use their machine with my fluid and I was told that they could do that. They don't drop the pan and change the filter so I went ahead and did that and filled back up with regular ATF. The next day I went to Jiffy Lube and they told me that they couldn't change the fluid in their machine. Pain in the butt part is that I talked to 2 or 3 people that said they could. Anyway, I'm going to tackle this myself now by taking the cooler line off and pumping it out and filling it through the dipstick. Here's the procedure from Amsoil I plan on using: http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq8.htm

 

Since I already dropped the pan and cleaned it and put fresh fluid and a new filter in, do I have to drop it again? I'm hoping that I can just disconnect the line and it will eventually pull out all 14 quarts of the dino ATF. Will it pull the fluid out of the pan, or will it just sit in there?

 

If I need to drop the pan or at least drain it, it isn't a big deal. I am just thinking that I may be wasting my time and the cooler line will pull it out anyway.

 

Any help you can give is appreciated. :)

Posted

Freyguy Hi,

 

I have the same truck you have, except I dont have the Crew Cab, so I dont know if this makes a difference or not. Im trying to change the Transmission Filter, but, ran into a snag. I cant get a wrench or a socket up to the last two pan bolts, because, of a transmission mount, that is covering up the bolts. Did you have to take off the cross member that is attached to the transmission mount, to get to the pan bolts??? I dont see any other way to get to this. How did you do yours????

 

Any help would be appreciated from anyone..thanks! :D

Posted

they were tricky! My crossmember must be in the same location because I thought I might have to unbolt it. I ended up using a ratcheting box style wrentch. Craftsman's new style. It got in there just fine, but it took a while since i couldn't get but a couple clicks out of it each time. A wobble fitting for a ratchet extension may work too, but I did not have one.

Posted

If it where me..I would replace the filter again anyway...You never know what you stir up when you pump out a trans like that. I'll call it cheap insurance,

Posted

I answered my own question. I did have to drain the pan at least first because when you put fluid in the fill tube it goes straight to the pan. If you leave some in the pan, you will just be mixing new with old. When you pull the drain plug you can get most of the fluid out, but about half a quart stays in so I dropped my pan all the way down again.

 

Another lesson I learned: I thought that the top line going into the radiator would be the feed line pumping the tranny fluid out and then it would go down through the radiator and out the bottom. WRONG! Now my engine compartment has a nice red tint to it! Haha. I just put the hose I had on the nipple coming out of the radiator at the top and I was back in business.

 

Just wanted to share this info with the guys who haven't tried to change the tranny fluid yet.

Posted

Freyguy,

 

Thanks for the reply...sorry I cant answer your question, but, I have another question regarding my problem. If, I cant get a torque wrench onto the last two pan bolts, how do you torque them up to the correct specifications, so there is no leaks :cheers:

Posted

Well.....I might not be the best one to ask about that. I need to be better about using that dang torque wrench! :thumbs::sigh:

 

I just tightened them as much as I could with the little wrench. I've checked both times after I've had it off and they haven't leaked yet and the bolts have remained tight.

Posted

FreyGuy,

 

Thanks you have been of some help..appreciate it. It looks like Im going to have to go the hard way and take off the cross member to get to the pan bolts.

 

Im amazed that 263 views on your topic and my problem, and no one else has chimed in here, but, one person. It seems there is not to many mechanically knowlegeable people here. I might have to spring for a shop manual in the future.

 

Thanks again FreyGuy. :thumbs:

Posted

Check with another oil change place in your area. I had mine done here locally and if I remember right you will need an extra quart or 2. As far as the filter I wouldn't change it again. Not really a need to do that. Good luck..Amsoil is the best and you will notice the differance.

Posted
Check with another oil change place in your area. I had mine done here locally and if I remember right you will need an extra quart or 2. As far as the filter I wouldn't change it again. Not really a need to do that. Good luck..Amsoil is the best and you will notice the differance.

 

 

 

 

 

Excuse the ignorance, but what is there notice, or at least what do you notice the most?

Posted
Check with another oil change place in your area. I had mine done here locally and if I remember right you will need an extra quart or 2. As far as the filter I wouldn't change it again. Not really a need to do that. Good luck..Amsoil is the best and you will notice the differance.

 

 

 

 

 

Excuse the ignorance, but what is there notice, or at least what do you notice the most?

 

 

 

 

 

I notice much improved shifting and and temp runs alot lower when towing.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 37's would probably fit with a 3" lift. GM only has two gear ratios for these trucks 3.73 for gas and 3.42 for diesel. And they can't be programmed for anything else at the moment. The rough country module just corrects the speedometer and odometer to adjust for tire size it's not a programming device.   You haven't said if your truck is gas or diesel, but for a gas truck the 10L1000 with 3.73 gears has a lower final drive ratio than the 6L90 it replaced would if it were swapped to 4.10s. GM used the same 3.73 gearing in 6 speed gas trucks. I don't think you'll have any issue running 37's with the 10 speed other than the reduction in mpg and towing/weight capacity which is as much of a function of the lift as the tire size.
    • Actually, it probably was the brakes.  It's weird the way the messages came across, but I took it to the dealer thinking that something was wrong with the sensor and in fact, the rear brakes were shot.  What I don't understand is why the messages never said, your brake pads are low.  First I got the message I posted above, taking about new pads being detected.  Then I got a message saying that the system needed repaired.  It never said, change your brake pads.
    • Did the KYBs keep it the same height in the front? I was concerned that pre-assembled assembly would raise it up an inch to standard non-z60 height.. I guess which it would make the rake 1 inch instead of 2 inches.
    • Thank you for keeping the train on the tracks and for a thoughtful engagement. I enjoyed the reflection on a previous stance to refine and improve your position. I like that inquisitive flexibility about you Atlas.    No the process isn't sterile. Hundreds, perhaps thousands of miles of piping, vessels, pumps. Chevron, the people I worked for, were keenly aware that there is a market for what is known as their "ISOCLEAN" line of lubricants. These are lubricants that are the same as those sold bulk that are further processed by filtration to a level your particular application demands. They will filter and package and provide lab documentation as required. Do not kid yourself. Every gallon of oil that goes into a Chevron Turbine, reciprocating compressor, generator is prefiltered and tested before being charged. Lest wise it was when I was there in the plants I worked in.    There are requirements set by manufactures for the cleanliness of the oils used in their equipment. OTR such as CUMMINS has standards shared with customers on this. Commercial interest selling to Ma and Pa do, but don't share that information. Not even upon request but internally, they do exist.    The GM study sited, (Graph from Machinery Lubrication in previous post) only shows "relative" importance.  I find that fascinating. By constructing the graph like this they admit there are dozens of factors in engine life and via scientific method determined the effect of 'relative cleanliness' on engine life not in miles but in 'FACTORS'. This allows a certain amount of reverse engineering does it not?   They even provided some touchstones. Beta 75 as a reference point. Wonderful stuff!!   Smaller blenders CAN and some DO take the time and effort to do better than a refinery or large bulk blender, like Warren Oil, in improving the "in the can" cleanliness. No I don't have a list but testing could generate that information.    Again, but one of several levers we can pull to improve engine life. The simplest is keeping a clean work station while doing your own oil changes.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...