'99 K1500 5.7L IM gaket R&R ... Q

[Jase007]

[oops] meant to say gasket, not "gaket" [end oops]

 

I think I posted this originally in the wrong section b/c got no responses.

 

Hello folks:

 

I am in the middle of a IM gasket R&R on my 5.7L K1500 and have a few Qs. I wrench on my foreign cars (mostly air / oil cooled classics) and a BMW or volvo every now and then but this is my first major American V8 project.

 

First, I have been to #1 Sons site and printed and read all materials related to this in the How-to section as well as general vmag forum. (takes FOREVER to load). I have re-read and made notes and these Qs aren't covered. (perhaps the write-ups are for older 5.7L).

 

1. Do the alternator and compressor have to be removed?

 

2. Do the alternator / Compressor brackets (big ones attached to front of motor) have to be removed? It looks like the IM will clear but ... not sure.

 

3. The Haynes / Chilton I have say the AC compressor should be unhooked (not disconnected) and "placed to the side". This seems impossible given the short length of the hoses attached to it and the way they drape over the IM.

 

4. The wiring harness to the alternator then down to the crank reference sensor and beyond has a few holding clips (near the alternator) that I can't get undone (can't see and mirror doesn't make it any easier). Any tricks on this? especially the one tucked in under the alternator with a "conveniently" spliced out ground to the block that also has to have a nut taken off to remove?

 

5. I got the FelPro MS98000T gasket kit, RTV, Permatex Hylomar, new QD, AF, thermostat, etc... The gasket kit only came with one valve cover gasket ... is this corrrect? Meaning, does only one valve cover have to be removed to get the upper & lower IM off? If so ... which one?

 

6. I am planning removing the two pieces together (many have said / claimed it is possible and it looks to be so). When I have them off should I separate to replace any gaskets between them? What about future vacuum leaks in areas like the idle control valve gasket?

 

7. The FelPro instructions say to "install side rail gaskets dry without sealers". This is the NEW "permadryplus" IM gaskets specifically designed for the 5.0, 5.7 and I think 7.4 motors that have coolant leak issues (motor magazine, December '04). Is this correct? What about some Hylomar around the coolant passages on the IM gasket? It does say to use RTV for the end seals.

 

That's all for now. I'm sure I will have more tomorrow when I am trying to seal her up.

 

FWIW: I first started suspecting this when I heard gurgling in the passenger footwell where the heater core is. Started watching the coolant level and it slowly went down (when cooled overnight). Changed oil ... no AF in the oil. Levels continued to go down ... slowly and gurgling continued on startup ... until warm. Then, a few days later while driving, temp soared to 215-220F (which it never moves above 180) and heat went away. Temps went back down, heat came back. Got home, let it cool, checked the coolant level and it was quite low (in the radiator). Parked it and got the parts and here I am. There is AF weeping off the back of the block and down over / around the 4L60E.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jason

 

p.s. Will also check and R&R heater conrol valve on passenger side of engine bay (someone mentioned this as another culprit after doing the IM gaskets).It is inline I believe.

[Jase007]

So.... loosening all the IM bolts and what do I discover .... driver's side front IM bolt is blocked by the AC compressor bracket from the top. Why the h@#$ would they design it this way beats me. You can't remove the bolt (or loosen it sufficiently b/c of clearance) without removing the AC Compressor bracket. We'll see what's involved with that next as the PS pulley / pump are attached to the same bracket.

 

What a PITA.

 

Jason

[Jase007]

I'll continue with the monolog ....

 

The AC compressor bracket was a pain and so was the rear harness bracket on the passenger side firewall. It has a tang specifcally designed to stop the bracket from rotating. What does the tang impede? It extends directly over the passenger side rear end of the IM. Who designs this stuff? Pulling the AC Compressor bracket far enough forward to clear the driver's side front IM bolt requires removial of the PS pulley. Press fit so make sure you get a decent puller. Lube the puller as you wrench on it.

 

Once all the bolts were clear for removal I finally wrangled it out. Cleaned and replaced most things and reinstalled. Torqed to FelPro spec. Put most of it back together already. Finishing touches tonight and we'll see what we get.

 

Has anyone here actually done this on a '97-99 5.7L Vortec?

 

Jason

[Jase007]

OK

 

Filled it with oil and antifreeze mix (not green stuff and not death-cool) last night and let it sit.

 

This morning, 6:25 EST fired it up on first turn of the key. No hesitation, no waiting for fuel to refill (like the old K or L jetronic early CIS), simply amazing.

 

However.

 

THere is a small drip coming down from the back of the motor. Judicious investigation via mirror and light revealed it wasn'tcoming from the IM R&R. So, where is it coming from? I suspect lines to rear heat and / or HCV (heater control valve).

 

Any thoughts?

 

Anyone?

 

Jason

[Burbman]

how is the repair holding up?

[mattjulien]

I'll continue with the monolog ....

 

The AC compressor bracket was a pain and so was the rear harness bracket on the passenger side firewall. It has a tang specifcally designed to stop the bracket from rotating. What does the tang impede? It extends directly over the passenger side rear end of the IM. Who designs this stuff? Pulling the AC Compressor bracket far enough forward to clear the driver's side front IM bolt requires removial of the PS pulley. Press fit so make sure you get a decent puller. Lube the puller as you wrench on it.

 

Once all the bolts were clear for removal I finally wrangled it out. Cleaned and replaced most things and reinstalled. Torqed to FelPro spec. Put most of it back together already. Finishing touches tonight and we'll see what we get.

 

Has anyone here actually done this on a '97-99 5.7L Vortec?

 

Jason

 

 

i did not have to do this...if you loosen all the bolts on the AC bracket you should be able to slide it foward out of your way. i had to do this on mine a couple of months ago. good luck it was a PITA to work on.

[pennzoil29]

Talk about archives. This one is 4+ years old.

[Jase007]

how is the repair holding up?

 

Hey there !! ... this thread got a response(s) 4+ years later j/k

 

Fel pro intake Manifold gaskets (MS 98000T for 5.7L) have held up beautifully. No leaks at all. Nice to buy a product that purports to fix a problem ... and it actually does so.

 

Replacing 2nd water pump with 3rd one right now. I'm at 137,xxx miles and truck is running strong. Basic maintenance, fluid changes, added Rancho 9000 Xl adj. shocks, new bushings here and there and Superspring add-a-leaf w/roller shackles in back (tow box trailer and car).

 

One fuel pump at ~ 100,xxx miles ... like they all do. Run it at half tank + all the time, change fuel filter often. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires at 100,xxx miles too. Flush 4L60E tranny fluid every 30K with B&G machine at friends shop do differentials myself.

 

Regular Mobil 1 5w30 every 5,xxx miles for the last 114,xxx miles of my ownership. Flush coolant regularly, still using dexcool and haven't seen any metal erosion, indications of "deathcool" eating away at the motor / metal on block, t-stat housing, etc... Got popped in front and put in a new radiator, cap, upper and lower hoses .. should have done the water pump (preventative) at the same time ... oh well.

 

 

Cheers!