Jump to content

Plugs and wires for old style 2000 Tahoe


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi,

 

I did a search and the information I found was for the 5.3L engines.

 

I've got 70k on my 'old style' 2000 Tahoe with the 5.7 - can anyone give me some suggestions on what plugs/wires I need for my truck?

 

Also - what about fuel filters? Hard to replace?

 

I've got a startup problem after it's been cool outside and the truck sits for a while. I carpool to work so it sits there for ~a week and it's starting to turn over a few more times (like 10 or so) before firing up. Once it fires, it's pretty smooth and runs very well. I haven't noticed any significant drop in mpg either.

 

Think plugs/wires/air-filter(time to change, i know it's not part of the problem)/fuel filter will help?

 

Also - once it starts up it's fine after that for the next few days until it sits for a while.

 

Maybe she's just mad at me for not driving her more. ;)

Posted

I bought a "tune up kit" from Summit racing. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor. All made by Accel and good quality and performance. About $100.

 

The fuel filter should be along the frame rail under the driver's door. Not too hard to change. Just go easy with the wrench, put the new one in correctly according to the arrow on the new filer, and make sure you have something to catch the small amount of gas that will run out when you remove the old one.

Posted

When changing the filter go through this procedure to keep from getting sprayed in the face with fuel.

 

1. Open the hood and take out the fuel pump control relay.

2. Start the engine and let it run until it dies from lack of fuel.

3. Now you can undo the lines to the filter and there will be no pressure on them.

 

When you order wires or plugs, just make sure you tell them you have the 5.7L engine. A lot of places get confused by the carry-over models. You can just tell them 98 Tahoe if you want.

 

MSD makes a killer set of wires for the 5.7L

Posted

Thanks all - I ran to Pep-Boys and gathered all the parts.

 

I'm 2cyl shy (back 2, psgr side) of completing it - just ran out of time yesterday.

 

This was my first time doing anything like this and it was a little more difficult than I had expected, especially getting the cap off and put back on. I had to climb into the engine bay to figure out how to get the dadgum thing off.

 

Just took a little patience and lots of elbow grease.

 

 

Anyone know what's in that box that sits up on top of the throttle body that is labled 'vortec'? Anything that needs to be changed out?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,835
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ballencd
    Newest Member
    ballencd
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 713 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m doing an experiment on a vehicle I don’t have much money in. I’m going by the premise that after they last 100K miles they were no mechanical problems with assembly. Or defects with the parts. With oil changes by the minder for the first 127K miles when I acquired it. I quickly went through low mileage oil changes then settled on 5k oil changes with close to 170K miles on the vehicle currently. I did have the option to turn off the cylinder deactivation. I didn’t on this vehicle because in ECONOMY mode at least half the time. It should be a no brainer frequent oil changes are the key. The manufacturer gets away with the long oil changes with its severe service  maintenance. Just ask them what is normal. 
    • Even set to "recirculated", the air pushes out and is hot. I have noticed that sometime it doesn't want to switch between recirculated/vented air. Say it is set to Circulated Air and I want to switch to Vented, when I click the Vented button, it just quickly lights up/clicks and immediatly switches back to Circulated. It's done this a few times now. So maybe it is an actuator getting stuck? But then, that doesn't explain the hot air when everything is off does it?
    • I wonder what the price is out at the coast, Big Sur or other out of the way locations as I bet they are charging quite a premium over the in land pumps. 
    • Were you looking at the HD trucks on the GM website or the half tons as that makes all the difference. As far as I know there are only two options for the HD trucks and that is the standard 2 speed transfer case or the 2 speed transfer case that has the added 4 high auto feature and they put that transfer case by default into the LTZ and High Country although its optional in the LT and not sure if its available in the work trucks.    The half tons, that is where its been a total mess in my estimation for a few years now with most trucks below the top trim having the single speed transfer case as standard but with the option of having the two speed such as one would get by choosing the Z71 package, however then not being able to get the two speed transfer case with the towing package unless it was a higher trim truck AND had the 6.2 gas so one could combine the towing package gearing diffs with the two speed transfer case. Having said that if its a trail boss package then it gets the two speed transfer case but not necessarily able to get the tow package as it would depend on trim level and engine chosen. Believe me, people have bought the GM half tons assuming "of course it will have a two speed transfer case" only to find out after when they really pay attention to what they now own .... crap, there is NO low range !.    I don't believe Ford or Ram have gone that way yet with their half tons but like I say its been a few years now that GM has done this with the half tons. 
    • $5.19 for regular...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...