Jump to content

PLEASE help! No front left headlight


Recommended Posts

Posted

So i noticed the other day I have no front left headlamp.. Figured, s**t bulb is out. SO I went and got a new bulb....

 

Nothing, still out! Checked fuse under the hood, fine.. Everything else works fine..High beams, fogs etc.

 

 

Please help!!

 

MIKE

Posted

I guess I could fint my volt meter and see if the wires are getting any juice. Is it a chance where the wires hit the sockets could be bad?

 

I have not done anything to cause this problem, no upgrades etc... SO i dono!?

Posted

Okay,

not to sound dumb, but I am assuming I want to probe the socket with the meeter and see if there is voltage? Can't I assume there is not any for...the bulb does not light up?

 

I was thinking I would probe into the wires just before the socket which would tell me if the socket is bad.

 

ANy other suggestions where to look?

 

THanks guys

Posted

possibility of another bad bulb. try switching the passenger and driver side and see if the problem is the same. the the non working light is on the other side then there is your problem. If not then there is a short in the wire some where. I cant tell you where but thats where the volt meter comes in handy. Follow the low beam wire (dark green I believe) all the way to the fuse block and see if there is a short or break in the wire.

Posted
not to sound dumb, but I am assuming I want to probe the socket with the meeter and see if there is voltage?  Can't I assume there is not any for...the bulb does not light up?

 

 

 

 

No, you cannot assume that. You may have lost the ground. It's not a real complicated wiring setup, but the first step is to find out whether you have lost power or ground to the socket. Knowing that will eliminate half of the wiring and control part for that light.

Posted

Okay,

Does anyone know what color wire on there is the ground? ..i have not looked, it may be black" but figured I'd ask.

 

So I will probe the ground to some metal and look for continunity, same with power...but probe it to a power source?

Posted
possibility of another bad bulb.  try switching the passenger and driver side and see if the problem is the same.  the the non working light is on the other side then there is your problem.  If not then there is a short in the wire some where.  I cant tell you where but thats where the volt meter comes in handy.  Follow the low beam wire (dark green I believe) all the way to the fuse block and see if there is a short or break in the wire.

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah, I did think of that. The package had 2 bulbs in it so I tried the other new one too, and it did not work. Now unless BOTH new ones were bad...Well I guess weirder things could happen. but they looked okay. I guess I could swap the one from the other side to elimintate it.

 

Prob easier to hit it with the meter and see if there is juice first.

Posted
Does anyone know what color wire on there is the ground?  ..i have not looked, it may be black" but figured I'd ask.

 

Power to the socket is orange. Ground, believe it or not, is yellow on the low beam and purple on the high beam.

Posted

Does the 01's have a groung trigger switch, my 02 had two wires hot going to the light socket hit the switch and one changed to a ground

 

Check your relays under the hood fuse box Water might have got in there

Posted
Does the 01's have a groung  trigger switch, my 02 had two wires hot going to the light socket  hit the switch and one changed to a ground

 

Check your relays under the hood fuse box Water might have got in there

 

 

 

 

 

How would I know if it was bad? Also I dont remember seeing one for the headlamps in the manual..

Could be wrong!

Posted

Getting a power and ground check is like pulling teeth, it seems. :banghead:

 

The power for ALL the headlights, both high and low, left and right, are supplied by ONE relay. And, the power for the left high/low beams are on one fuse and the right high/low beams are on another fuse.

 

Soooooo.... it ain't a fuse or the relay. If it was the relay, you'd have NO headlights. Not high beams, not low beams, not left or right. If it was just one of the two fuses, one whole side would be out, both high and low beams.

Posted

I would begin by checking for voltage at the socket. If you find a bad ground, follow the wire and see if it is broken. My bet is with the ground, if the hot wire was broken, the fuse would be blown. Either the socket or the ground is bad. Just my opnion.

Posted

Soooooooooooo

 

Guys, I HATE TO ADMIT THIS! BUT I AM THE JACKASS OF THE YEAR!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Sooo here is the deal.

 

I bought the low beam bulbs, 9006... I am at a gas station and decide to pop my new bulb in. So i take off the lens, pop out the light...throw it in the garbage... to realize, s**t I have the wrong bulbs, for my new one did not fit. Well assuming that bulb was still trash I left there, in the trash.

 

Get the new bulbs 9005s and replace them. Well this whole FREAKING TIME I was playing with the HIGH beams. SO yeah I had the right bulb to behin with but was looking at the wrong lens. It all made sense to me when the socket had 12+ volts to it!

 

I am a freaking idiot....Funny part is this is SO something I would make fun of others for, and not something I would do at all! Guess I just got a lot on my mind..

 

None the less now I have Silverstars on both high and low beams...

 

THanks for all the help...and feel free to banter me!! :D:tear::banghead:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So after reading the reveal from Chevrolet, I kept asking myself...why did the trim levels change?   Here are the official ones:   Work Truck (WT): The quintessential fleet truck, built with durable, easy-to-clean interiors for commercial or utilitarian use. Custom: A stylish, road-oriented trim that adds a more refined appearance, standard dual exhaust, and modern exterior styling. Custom Trail Boss: An entry-level off-roader featuring a 2-inch factory suspension lift and 34-inch mud-terrain tires on a budget. Silverado: Serving as the new base consumer truck (replacing the previous LT trim), it comes standard with the Z71 off-road package when equipped with 4WD. Trail Boss: Steps up the off-road hardware with the 2-inch lift, 34-inch tires, monotube shocks, an exclusive off-road hood, and more premium interior options. ZR2: The flagship off-roader. It boasts 35-inch mud-terrain tires, Multimatic DSSV dampers, front and rear electronic lockers, forged carbon-fiber interior accents, and an available hardcore Bison Edition (co-developed with AEV). High Country: The pinnacle of luxury. It replaces bright chrome with modern satin chrome, 22-inch wheels, premium leather, real wood interior trim, a panoramic sunroof, and an exclusive front-passenger touchscreen. As others have stated, why would you want a Silverado - 'Silverado' - wth?? LT needs to remain!!!   Also, there will no longer be a dedicated Z71 model.  All 4x4 trucks will have the Z71 package. Carplay is also something that cannot be removed.  Hopefully it will remain.     I am excited about the 5.7L V8 (350 C.I.D.)  Old school Chevy power.  My only concern is whatever version of AFM/DFM cylinder deactivation.  Too bad that isn't an option a buyer can choose to have or not.   I will definitely be stopping by my local dealership when these trucks start showing up.
    • I haven't seen diesel for less than $5.30 anywhere in my area
    • The not as clean as one would assume theme with the new engine oil, that reminds me of comments over the years with mechanics not always being so on board with filling an oil filter, not from the center anyway due to that typically being the clean side of the filter, danger of some contaminant falling into the filter if not careful but the realization now that the oil may not be as pure as one had assumed it would surely be. Yes it would be possible to fill from the small holes but that means messing with something to prop open the anti drain back valve if the filter is so equipped and not damage that valve in the process. Me, I have hardly ever prefilled an engine oil filter however I have prefilled diesel fuel filters with a filter on a fuel bulk tank and for anyone that has messed with diesel engines with filters and units that have a limited or no way of priming them, putting on a dry filter is a bad day to say the least with those crappy systems. But anyway back to not so clean engine oil, indeed perhaps its not so bad after all that I have not made a practice of prefilling oil filters.    As Grumpy Bear commented on keeping things clean, that I really have to wonder what the typical practice is at a dealer or any other shop that changes engine oil, do they make sure to wipe or wash off the oil plug and certainly if it fell into some gunk or onto a dirty floor, or that they wiped the filter mounting flange and didn't go and use some dirty rag and end up adding dirt to the inside of the head of the filter mount. Or be careless in how they stored or handled the new filter and if they were bumping into items under the vehicle with the filter opening facing up and having dirt drop right into the filter and if so right into the threaded center that is on the clean side. The top side, did they clean away the built up gunk that may be around the filler before removing the cap or to be really careful at that point that something right close to the filler hole that was hidden under the caps flange won't fall into the engine. Or did they clean the funnel or was that just laying there covered in oil from the oil change before and dust kicked up from sweeping the floor stuck to the oil and now that will go running into the next persons engine due to just not cleaning the funnel as "they won't know anyway" attitude as that young guy is more worried about taking a break so he can go outside and smoke a joint. Just random points that came to mind when I think about what some hired personnel may do that the shop foreman has no idea of or perhaps the whole attitude of some shops may be "eh ... who cares, they will never know the difference anyway".  
    • $3.69 for 87 octane.   $4.24 for Diesel in town.
    • On the subject of OLM, Gm's OLM tool may be more "informed" than others brands. I recall OLM's in mid-2000's Chrysler products literally counting down a set number of miles. That's all the OLM appeared to be.    I would actually expect GM to be able to explain the parameters that their OLM takes into account from a high level. No, I would not expect them to disclose their software coding or data analysis around their parameters.   So we're talking about two different topics, so to continue the subject on the other one, I'd be curious to know how much "standard particulate matter" in fresh oil is able to be filtered at first start by a fresh oil filter. How much particulate matter is enough to "matter"?   I.e. how much of a "lever" do we think this equates to (variability in particulate content, in fresh oils, between different makes/brands, some which filter less, and some that filter more).   We can say that more particles = more wear = shorter engine life as a logical statement and use that data with a little marketing to scare people into selecting a more refined/filtered oil. Using a similie, is this like deciding to forego two alcoholic drinks in a lifetime because we're worried about the potential impact on lifespan? Are there numbers which translate the ISO test results into a quantifiable increase in wear for a given engine/use case?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...