Dumb question

Torque Junkie · June 17, 2001

How can I tell, by looking at it, if my engine is a 305 or a 350? The truck had a new engine put in it before the guy I bought it from bought it, and the papers didn't follow. The guy was told it was a 350, and thats what he told me, but I'm not 100% sure, and by looking at it, it's hard to tell.

Any help would be appreciated

76BBSub · June 17, 2001

If you look at the top of the engine block on the passenger side in front of the cylinder head there should be some numbers and letters stamped there. Post them here and I'll look up the code in my Chevrolet book and maybe we can tell that way. The problem is that they re-used alot of the codes, but it's worth a try. The code should be three letters, and the letters are usually stamped in a larger size than the VIN derivative.

Other than that, it's pretty hard to tell just from looking at the outside. All of the external bolt-on stuff is completely interchangeable.

Post the codes and let's see what we can find out.

Jeff

Torque Junkie · June 18, 2001

Quote: from 76BBSub on 4:17 pm on June 17, 2001
If you look at the top of the engine block on the passenger side in front of the cylinder head there should be some numbers and letters stamped there. Post them here and I'll look up the code in my Chevrolet book and maybe we can tell that way. The problem is that they re-used alot of the codes, but it's worth a try. The code should be three letters, and the letters are usually stamped in a larger size than the VIN derivative.

Other than that, it's pretty hard to tell just from looking at the outside. All of the external bolt-on stuff is completely interchangeable.

Post the codes and let's see what we can find out.

Jeff

Awesome! Thanks for your help.... I'll try to take some pics tomorrow...... if not tomorrow, Tuesday, and post them when I pull them off the flash card.

I'm almost positive it's a 350, but there's still a shadow of a doubt....... I'm gonna run a carfax report on it and see, but still, that won't be 100% accurate because it has a relatively new engine.

Torque Junkie · June 19, 2001

Well, making me feel even dumber for overlooking it, the factory sticker under the hood says it's a 350, and for them to replace it with anything smaller when they did the new engine a few years ago, would be stupid.

If it helps, the VIN starts with CKL149F

Thanks again

-Mike

76BBSub · June 19, 2001

You might be surprised...depending on who did the swap they may have intentionally changed the engine to a 305 to save a few $$$, or they may have just had one available, etc. I have seen it more than once.

Go ahead and check that front pad and I'll check on the code for you.

Jeff

Torque Junkie · June 20, 2001

Unfortunately, I didn't see any code stamped into the front of the block anywhere, unless it's hiding under the alternator somewhere.

I guess since most aftermarket bolt-ups are pretty much interchangable, I'm not too aweful concerned about it, but I would like to know just for knowing's sake.......

If it'd help, I could snap a couple digital pics and post them tomorrow......maybe I'm overlooking it or something?

Thanks

-Mike

76BBSub · June 20, 2001

It is entirely possible that the block has been decked, erasing the numbers. Also, crud tends to build up on the area of the numbers, since the head and it's usually leaking valve cover sit right overhead. Also, now that I think of it, they did change the location sometime in the mid-late 70s. If you get a chance, take a picture of the top-front of the engine, full width of the engine if possible, post it here and maybe I can see where the stamp pad is.

I can't stand to give up on this just yet...I'm sick that way!

Jeff

Torque Junkie · June 21, 2001

Quote: from 76BBSub on 9:22 am on June 20, 2001
It is entirely possible that the block has been decked, erasing the numbers. Also, crud tends to build up on the area of the numbers, since the head and it's usually leaking valve cover sit right overhead. Also, now that I think of it, they did change the location sometime in the mid-late 70s. If you get a chance, take a picture of the top-front of the engine, full width of the engine if possible, post it here and maybe I can see where the stamp pad is.

I can't stand to give up on this just yet...I'm sick that way!

Jeff

I'll take a couple pictures after Work and post them up here for ya...

Thanks for your persistant help, I appreciate it

-Mike

Torque Junkie · June 22, 2001

Here are 3 pictures I took.... I'm not sure how helpful they are, but it was rather difficult to climb up there with the camera.... I slipped once and nearly hurt myself

Excuse the slow server.... they're

working on upgrading bandwidth, but it could be a while... And to make matters worse, I only reduced them to 1200x900 to keep as much detail as possible visible.

EDIT: Might help if I link the pictures, huh?

-Mike

(Edited by Torque Junkie at 9:44 pm on June 21, 2001)

(Edited by Torque Junkie at 9:45 pm on June 21, 2001)

76BBSub · June 22, 2001

OK, I can't see the stamp pads in the pictures but now I have a "map" to try to help you find them.

In the first picture, see where the heater hose runs between the valve cover and the alternator? If you temporarily push that out of the way, look down at the base of the valve cover on the that end, you may see about 3/8" of the block sticking out from the block in the forward direction. That's one possible stamp pad, but I think only on newer engines. This engine appears to have been blue, which indicates it's a '77 or newer engine.

On the second picture, look in front of the thermostat housing/upper radiator hose for one or two 1/4"-3/8" pads sticking out from the block. This is actually the more likely position since the engine is '77 or up.

When you find the pad, it will probably be VERY dirty. I use carburetor cleaner or brake parts cleaner in a spray can and a toothbbrush, or small scraper if necessary, to clean it off.

I see you already have the Performer intake, that's a great intake! You just need some nice headers to replace those log-manifolds, would really wake the engine up!

Post those numbers when you find em.

Jeff

Torque Junkie · June 24, 2001

I see you already have the Performer intake, that's a great intake! You just need some nice headers to replace those log-manifolds, would really wake the engine up!

The intake was on there when I bought it, and I added the air cleaner a few weeks ago (it still had the stock box on there) towards the end of July, I plan on runing headers and either 2.5" or 3" (dependant on the header collector size) back on both sides to a pair of Flowmaster 40's. I can't wait to hear & feel the difference

I looked very closely in there and did not see anywhere where numers were stamped, or even a place where they could be stamped.

It's not that big of a deal... as long as most aftermarket parts bolt up right to it.....

Thanks for all your help though

-Mike

(Edited by Torque Junkie at 9:42 pm on June 23, 2001)

76BBSub · June 25, 2001

For your headers, let me suggest DynoMax CeramCoat. They have 1-5/8" primaries, which are perfect for your application, they provide more low-end torque and better throttle response than larger tube headers. They are Ceramic Coated for heat retention and good looks. The best part is that they are about ? from Summit or Jegs. I have a set on my Suburban and they are great, also most of the Corvette guys are running them on the '70s Vettes.

Just a suggestion....

Jeff