Front end question

Chevforever · March 4, 2005

My 2001 Silverado 1500 4x4 now has 109,000 miles and the Right side inner tie rod is showing about 3/8" of play. According to my Hayes Manual, it says that the inner tie rods / Relay rod are one unit and need to be replaced as a unit. I ordered the Relay rod (AKA Center Link) from AC Delco parts and when it arrived it did not include the inner tie rods. I was told that the tie rods are available seperately. I have no technical info on how to go about removing the inner tie rods from the original Center link and no torque specs on re-assembly. Should I return the new Center link and order the inner tie rods and attach them to the original Center link?I will also install new outer tie rods just to be on the safe side. Again, I have no specs on the above items that I have mentioned. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time in this matter.

Sincerely, John B

GM-Tech · March 4, 2005

The inner tie rod ends are replaceable separately. I'd say you should return the relay rod (center link) and just get the part you need.

Here's the procedure to replace the inner tie rod end from our service information. They say it in a much more orderly fashion than I would.

Note that the "J 34028 Inner Tie Rod Wrench" mentioned is nothing but a large, open end wrench that fits onto a ratchet, breaker bar or torque wrench for reassembly. If you have something that will fit, it will do just fine.

Tie Rod Replacement - Inner

Tools Required

J 34028 Inner Tie Rod Wrench

Removal Procedure

Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.

Remove the engine protection shield, if equipped. Refer to Engine Protection Shield Replacement in Frame and Underbody.

Remove the outer tie rod end. Refer to Tie Rod Replacement .

Remove the inner tie rod end using the J 34028.

Installation Procedure

Important: Perform the following procedure before installing the new tie rod ends:

Remove all traces of the oil, grease, or other contaminents.

Clean the threads of the tie rod with denatured alcohol or the equivalent and allow to dry.

Apply red LOCTITE Threadlocker, GM P/N 12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488) to the threads of the inner tie rod.

Install the inner tie rod to the relay rod.

Tighten

Using the J 34028 tighten the tie rod to 100 N·m (74 lb ft).

Install the outer tie rod end. Refer to Tie Rod Replacement .

Install the engine protection shield, if equipped. Refer to Engine Protection Shield Replacement in Frame and Underbody.

Lower the vehicle.

Verify the wheel alignment. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in Wheel Alignment.

Chevforever · March 5, 2005

Thank you very much for the info. I will pick up the inner tie rod ends tommorow and get started on it during the week. The alignment seems perfectly straight along with the centering of the steering wheel, and the tires are wearing evenly except for some cupping due to worn shocks that I will replace while doing the other. Do you have specifications for the toe in on this vehicle? Due to the way it drives I don't imagine it would need a complete alignment (Caster / Camber), just a confirmation on the toe in after repairs are made. Again, thank you for your time concerning this matter.

John B

GM-Tech · March 5, 2005

Don't have the specs handy... they're in our front end machine. How do you plan to set this? With a tape measure?

If I were you, I'd spend the bucks and get it aligned properly.

Chevforever · March 5, 2005

I have a spring loaded toe gauge. Since 1986 I've had five K/V series Chevrolet pickups. Since none of them had any Caster/Camber adjustments, only toe, I invested in the tool. After the first toe adjustment I ever did, I took it to the Chevy dealer where I used to work and they put it on the rack and it was right on the money. So It was worth the investment. I suppose it would make more sense to have the 01 aligned on the rack since there are numerous adjustments that could be done. Thanks for your help.

John B