Jump to content

TNR, XM, RSE & Bose Premium, can I add 6 Disc???


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2005 Avalanche with the 6 speaker (plus sub) Bose Premium sound system. It has the TNR head unit with XM and RSE. Has anyone added a 6 disc changer to this setup? If so, what does it take to do this and do all the controls appear on the screen when you toggle through with the CD button?

 

I have read a lot of topics about adding the 6 disc but I was not sure any of them covered my exact scenerio. If this has already been discussed can someone point me in the right direction.

 

Y91 is not listed in my glove box so I do not know if that matters at this point.

 

Any help would be appreciated...........Thanks, Mike

Posted

I have a 03 Yukon That I added the RSE and the 6 disc changer to.All you have todo is follow the threads on the Nav system setup in this forum and it has everything you need to add the changer.You will need the part #15312903 thats the harness, part #15122617 is the changer you need.There is other part # for the changer but it must have the metal tabs on the side for it to be the corecct one to work.As far as being reconized by the Hu. It will if wired correctly.Mine works just like OEM.

Posted

If I add the CD changer and the harness listed above will I have to rework the pins on the harness to make it work correctly?? Also would I be able to upgrade to the LUX amps? Or would they not work with my TNR?

 

Mike

Posted
If I add the CD changer and the harness listed above will I have to rework the pins on the harness to make it work correctly??  Also would I be able to upgrade to the LUX amps? Or would they not work with my TNR?

 

Mike

 

 

 

 

The 15312093 harness will need a little work at the headunit's end, three wires will get spliced into the 12 pin connector's wires and three will get spliced in the 24 pin connector's wires. Once done the HU will recognize it, display it, and operate it the same as it does the build in cd player.

Your headunit is a non-lux unit and will not work with the lux amp. to change to the lux setup you would need both the amp and headunit and then do the wiring mods for it.

Posted

Ok, I am starting to follow all the differences in the versions. I would love to have the LUX amps but it would not be worth it to switch out a brand new TNR. I guess I will deal with what I have.

 

I have noticed many changers on the Internet that are different models but look the same. Is there any model numbers beside the 15122617 that work. I know the 15122617 has the metal tabs are there others?

 

Thanks........Mike

Posted
Ok, I am starting to follow all the differences in the versions.  I would love to have the LUX amps but it would not be worth it to switch out a brand new TNR.  I guess I will deal with what I have.

 

I have noticed many changers on the Internet that are different models but look the same.  Is there any model numbers beside the 15122617 that work.  I know the 15122617 has the metal tabs are there others?

 

Thanks........Mike

 

 

 

 

I have found many CD changers that are model 15064147 on Ebay, would this work in my 2005 Avalanche? I know it has the plastic rails but besides that would it plug in and work like the 15122617? If so is it that big a deal to make it mount securely? How about a model 15095685? If GM had only one model it would be too easy.

 

Thanks.........Mike

Posted
Ok, I am starting to follow all the differences in the versions.  I would love to have the LUX amps but it would not be worth it to switch out a brand new TNR.  I guess I will deal with what I have.

 

I have noticed many changers on the Internet that are different models but look the same.  Is there any model numbers beside the 15122617 that work.  I know the 15122617 has the metal tabs are there others?

 

Thanks........Mike

 

 

 

 

I have found many CD changers that are model 15064147 on Ebay, would this work in my 2005 Avalanche? I know it has the plastic rails but besides that would it plug in and work like the 15122617? If so is it that big a deal to make it mount securely? How about a model 15095685? If GM had only one model it would be too easy.

 

Thanks.........Mike

 

 

 

 

 

The mount is not the only difference (it is just the easiest way to tell the difference in model years)

The 03 and up models have the metal mounting ears and they are also the only models that use the class II data bus signal to control the functions of the CD changer. The headunit and cd changer communicate through the data bus wire and the 02 and back models (the ones with the plastic rails) do not have the ability to understand the communications on the data bus.

Posted

Will a model # 15178524 work in place of a 15122617 cd changer? The 15178524 is from 2003 or 2004, it is from a LUX system. Does that mean it will work in a non LUX system?

 

Thanks...........Mike

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,252 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...