05 Envoy Mod

darius26 · April 15, 2005

Hey gang, I'm new to this forum. I am interested in replcing or improving the stock audio my 05 Envoy XL came with. I don't have to Bose nor DVD upgrades. Every store I've gone too have either been too expensive or they didn't get my convidence when they talked about how they'd replace and install the new gears.

I figured I'm pretty handy and look into doing some of the work myself. However I don't want to start prying out my trims. I'm wondering if any ouf you have some specs or manuals on where/how to remove stock head unit, the speakers and locations for an amp.

I have also read on the net about the some auxiliary box attachment so I can plug in other external audio source via rca plugs, in my case would be a portable dvd player. Has anyone installed this ? What kind should I get ?

I'm a father of two so 'pimpin' da ride would not be a priority just a nice sound will do. I don't intend on driving with the sound blaring across my block neither. I have heard sales speech to replace all stock speakers with new 4 ch. amps, to replace all speakers and add 2 ch. amp to power a 10" subs. to just replace speakers. One guy even said he wouldn't have to take the head unit out which I found hard to believe if he is adding an amp. Made me worry on the kind of job he'd do. What have you done with your stock audio ?

Thanks a bunch !

MuranoSE · April 20, 2005

Hey gang, I'm new to this forum. I am interested in replcing or improving the stock audio my 05 Envoy XL came with. I don't have to Bose nor DVD upgrades. Every store I've gone too have either been too expensive or they didn't get my convidence when they talked about how they'd replace and install the new gears.
I figured I'm pretty handy and look into doing some of the work myself. However I don't want to start prying out my trims. I'm wondering if any ouf you have some specs or manuals on where/how to remove stock head unit, the speakers and locations for an amp.

I have also read on the net about the some auxiliary box attachment so I can plug in other external audio source via rca plugs, in my case would be a portable dvd player. Has anyone installed this ? What kind should I get ?

I'm a father of two so 'pimpin' da ride would not be a priority just a nice sound will do. I don't intend on driving with the sound blaring across my block neither. I have heard sales speech to replace all stock speakers with new 4 ch. amps, to replace all speakers and add 2 ch. amp to power a 10" subs. to just replace speakers. One guy even said he wouldn't have to take the head unit out which I found hard to believe if he is adding an amp. Made me worry on the kind of job he'd do. What have you done with your stock audio ?

Thanks a bunch !

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Well if it helps I'm running a sub and amp off my factory BOSE HU in my Bravada. However I am swapping the HU very soon.

April 22, 2005

You didn't say what stock unit you have but I'll assume the "don't need Bose" comment to mean you you don't have Bose. Actually that is a good thing as it makes upgrading much easier.

Everyone on this board wll have an opinion but here's mine:

1.) Start with the door speakers. Buy some off ebay to cut expense. I've used Pioneer to cut costs and been very happy but now have MB Quart and am livin' large. If your ulimate goal is to have a very high quality system go with components now. It will only affect the cost moderately. Speakers that handle 40-50w nominal with 250-300w max will be fine (and save the kiddies ears). You'll be surprised at how good your stock HU sounds with decent speakers.

2.) If you need more add a 4CH amp. Easy enough to do and it will probably fit under the rear seat (can't say for sure, I haven't looked under an Envoy seat). 100-150w per channel RMS will deliver very clean sound at higher volumes than you'll want the kids listening to.

3.) Going to the next level? Adding a sub will add a whole new dimension to your sound system. Problem is if you add it now you'll connect it to a LOC from the rear speaker and have to rewire it later when you (if you) change the HU. There are no custom enclosures (that i'm aware of) so you'll have to find a match up for amp and enclosure that will fit somewhere convenient. A single 12" with 250-500w amp will give you great thump and control range.

4.) I'd leave the HU to last unless you absolutely need mps/changer options right away. If you connect a new HU to your stock speakers you will very likely be disappointed. It will be better but not much. There are a lot of good HU's out there. I recommend Alpine becasue of the features (crossover control, etc), but I had a Sony before (actually still have it in the garage) that I loved. Don't cheap out here. Pay $100, get $100. I know it sounds stupid but a remote really comes in handy if you mess with the HU much. No leaning forward and looking at the head for the controls. (I know, it sounds stupid).

5.) Thinking of the new IPOD interfaces? Trust me, get the FM unit that plugs into the IPOD. I have the direct control interface. Do you know how many songs will fit on a 20g IPOD? Thousands. Do you know how hard it is to find the one you want through the direct interface? VERY PAINFUL. Its much more convenient to use the IPOD controls and the FM sounds pretty good.

OK, stand by. These opinions are sure to sparks a bevy of others. Good luck and good listening.

MrQuadrasteer · April 23, 2005

I have nothing to add.... just sayin' welcome

cdubb · April 25, 2005

I have a 04 Envoy - no Bose, etc.

Still love my truck, but for a $30K truck the stock sound system is horrible!!! Even the bose I was not impressed with, so I saved the extra cash and upgraded my whole system for $300ish on my own.

First, I replace all the door speakers with Infinity speakers, got them from a friend who owns a shop for a great deal. Got all 4 for $150. I have seen them everywhere. Best bang for buck.

Next, I looked at base tubes because I didnt want to lose much cargo space with a huge sub-box. Looked at Bazooka, but they are WAY overpriced - 8" ($100), 10" ($200), 12" ($300)

I went with a no-name 12" 'Metrik' brand bass tube and it sounds phenominal. I got it on www.overstock.com. I was concerned about a no-name, because audio in general is not something you want to cut corners on. Like he said, you pay $100, you get $100. I have found 'Metrik' to be the exception. Check them out.

But my tube rocks. Exactly want I wanted. Sounds great, easy to install. Just enough bass for me, I listen to everything (rock, rap, techno). Overstock.com has both powered and non-powered versions of the tubes for easy hook-up. The non-powered 8" tube is $60? My powered 12" tube was $150.

I'm now looking for a new HU as the 'pale green' plain jain GM unit is freakin crap. The buttons are already fading and rubbing off. I can't stand the interior lighting on this truck. So dang boring. I want to change it all the be white. I'm looking at a double-din Clarion HU for $250.

Hope this helps!!!

darius26 · April 27, 2005

Thanks for all the input.

I managed to find someone to upgrade for me.

He added a 4 channel amp, to power up the front pair, and tapped onto the rear speaker to get source for the sub where it's been bridged. ( if i seem technical, trust me i'm just repeating most of what he said ).

Now here's where the problem begins. Although I know he's done a clean job, I believe a few things were neglected.

1. I lost my chime ! he tapped straight from the speaker source and didn't use any adapter or worked around the wiring for chime and OnStar. The chime now only comes on when the amp is on. I believe the same would be the case for the onstar. I know the chime is heard from the driver door speaker, I assume the OnStar is the same, I haven't activated it yet.

2. I hear engine noise. After I heard the engine noise he added an LOC for the front speakers only. Thought it did fix it as it sounded clean when I left. But it all came back. My thoughts are a bad ground. Perhaps there is another reason ? It was really disappointing when I drove to work listening to my engine all the way !

Is there a need for that PAC AOEM GM24 I think it's called ? ( i see it on eBay for like $50) Is there another product ? I have heard of stuff from Soundgate or Peripheral. Better yet, is there another way of keeping the chime and onstar from being sent through the amp ?

Thanks again.

darius26 · April 27, 2005

Thanks for all the input.

I managed to find someone to upgrade for me.

He added a 4 channel amp, to power up the front pair, and tapped onto the rear speaker to get source for the sub where it's been bridged. ( if i seem technical, trust me i'm just repeating most of what he said ).

Now here's where the problem begins. Although I know he's done a clean job, I believe a few things were neglected.

1. I lost my chime ! he tapped straight from the speaker source and didn't use any adapter or worked around the wiring for chime and OnStar. The chime now only comes on when the amp is on. I believe the same would be the case for the onstar. I know the chime is heard from the driver door speaker, I assume the OnStar is the same, I haven't activated it yet.

2. I hear engine noise. After I heard the engine noise he added an LOC for the front speakers only. Thought it did fix it as it sounded clean when I left. But it all came back. My thoughts are a bad ground. Perhaps there is another reason ? It was really disappointing when I drove to work listening to my engine all the way !

Is there a need for that PAC AOEM GM24 I think it's called ? ( i see it on eBay for like $50) Is there another product ? I have heard of stuff from Soundgate or Peripheral. Better yet, is there another way of keeping the chime and onstar from being sent through the amp ?

Thanks again.

April 28, 2005

Engine noise - my first guess would be ground as well but it shouldn't have gone away and then come back unless you have a loose connection. Tighten all connections and see.

Chime - yup, you need an adapter. I got mine from Circuit City for about $70 bucks. It provides chime and "ignition on" outputs. By the way, what are you using to signal the amp to turn on? Is it one of those "smart" ones that turns on from speaker input?

darius26 · May 3, 2005

Well it's all done.. I think

I needed to install a PAC AOEM-GM24 adapter which provided the ability to fade, and maintains my chime and OnStar. The adapter also provided the remote turn on for the amp. I guess the adapter has a delay in shutting off the amp so you can hear the chime.

I heard a similar adapter is available from Peripheral called SVEN, but is a bit more costly than PAC.

the amp originally installed had problems and wouldn't balance when used with the PAC. It also amplified the chime - which blew the woofer on the right side, when it shouldn't have even gone there !

The new amp doesn't do all that. Go figure... Not sure if its a particular type of amp, since the one that works is an upgrade from my original purchase...

the drama continues...