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header problem with 5.3L


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Posted

I'm looking for advice on my 2000 Silverado. As I went to install Gibson shorty headers, I noticed there wasn't a exhaust manifold bolt on the driver's side, far aft hole. In fact, when I took the manifold off, I noticed the hole was not even threaded. Figuring this was normal, I installed the headers and sure enough, I get a serious leak behind the driver's side, aft cylinder.

Has anyone else ran into this and if you have, what did you do? I don't know if I should find someone to thread the block or not.

Posted
I'm looking for advice on my 2000 Silverado.  As I went to install Gibson shorty headers, I noticed there wasn't a exhaust manifold bolt on the driver's side, far aft hole.  In fact, when I took the manifold off, I noticed the hole was not even threaded.  Figuring this was normal, I installed the headers and sure enough, I get a serious leak behind the driver's side, aft cylinder.

Has anyone else ran into this and if you have, what did you do?  I don't know if I should find someone to thread the block or not.

 

 

 

bummer, if the hole is there take the header off, tap it (m8 x 1.25) and get a bolt for it

Posted
I checked bolts this afternoon while installing my new intake.  I have all of mine.

 

 

 

Took the truck to the dealer and they believed the bolt had been busted off. Hard to believe with an aluminum head, but anyway, the only way to tell is to pull the head. $1000 at the dealer, then the hole has to be tapped. Arrggghh. Any thoughts?? I'm a shade tree mechanic that doesn't have the time to undergo tearing down the most dependable vehicle I own, but I'm not seeing another choice.

  • 8 months later...
Posted
I'm looking for advice on my 2000 Silverado.  As I went to install Gibson shorty headers, I noticed there wasn't a exhaust manifold bolt on the driver's side, far aft hole.  In fact, when I took the manifold off, I noticed the hole was not even threaded.  Figuring this was normal, I installed the headers and sure enough, I get a serious leak behind the driver's side, aft cylinder.

Has anyone else ran into this and if you have, what did you do?  I don't know if I should find someone to thread the block or not.

 

 

 

 

 

I know this thread is quite old, but just recently on my wife's 2000 Yukon XL (5.3 Vortex) we began hearing what sounded like lifters ticking. Today, I opened the hood to try to isolate and low and behold the last two bolds on the drivers side exhaust manifold are missing. It appears that the head have broken off.

 

What did you you ever do about yours? Remove the head, drill and tap?

 

--Gary

Posted

Good thing this forum emails you when people post to threads you start!

 

I'm going to guess that you added an aftermarket exhaust to the vehicle, maybe a cat-back or something? I think that's what broke my bolt off, i believe, since I had a cat-back on before I began the header install.

 

Yup. I bought a Felpro top end gasket and bolt set and set aside a couple days to pull the heads off my engine. With the help of my trusty shop manual, I was able to remove the heads, which are extremely light and easy to manuever being aluminum, tap out the hole and insert a Helicoil to rethread the hole. Put it all back together, slowly and carefully, and she purrs like a kitten now. Or maybe lion.

 

I will tell you, unless you have the facility to be able to log some serious wrenching time, don't undertake this task. I happen to be military and we have an auto craft shop with lifts and tools and ASE certified mechanics that you can ask questions as you wrench. I took four days leave and planned the project. You can price it to have it done, i'm just anal and don't let anyone touch my baby.

 

While I was in there and replacing head gaskets, cleaning injectors, etc... the mechanic on duty came over and thought my truck was brand new because you could still see the cross hatching on the cylinder walls, no wear whatsoever. I suprised him when I said it had 82,000 miles on it. Testament to the 'ol Vortec. I only have more respect for the simplicity, well-thought-out and designed engine GM has here. Not one time did I bang my knuckles, curse the engineers, and throw a wrench. Remove the Fan clutch and shroud and you can stand on the cross member right behind the radiator for easy access to everything.

 

I only had a Haynes manual to go off of. Most will say Chiltons is better and even better would be to have a GM shop manual. Study what you'll be doing and what you'll need BEFORE you begin. You can IM me if you need any more specific info.

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