Electrical Tribulations

[OUMike]

Hey guys...

 

The Patient -

1994 Silverado RCSB 4.3L V6, 4L60-E

190k miles

 

The Symptoms -

Eradic lights and gauges. When I'm driving sometimes the speedo will move like a watch hand and will "tick" through the speeds. Tach acts the same way.

 

If I'm sitting still and the AC is running with my headlights, and I turn the dome lights on they will flicker. My alternator volts will drop significantly when my dome lights, head lights and AC are on. When I shut everything off and motor is running by it self, the alternator kicks back to 14 volts.

 

I think the alternator is going south. Does this sound accurate? Let me know if I can offer anymore background info. As always, thanks in advance.

[Wingnut]

My experience says alternators usually just *BAM* quit working. But I've read (around here) of others having them go out gradually. So take my experience with a grain of salt.

 

I would lean more towards battery cable, OBS trucks are very prone to problems with them. They'll even look fine on the outside, but on the inside they've dang near turned into powder. It will make the gauges do all sorts of funktastic stuff.

[OUMike]

My experience says alternators usually just *BAM* quit working. But I've read (around here) of others having them go out gradually. So take my experience with a grain of salt.

 

I would lean more towards battery cable, OBS trucks are very prone to problems with them. They'll even look fine on the outside, but on the inside they've dang near turned into powder. It will make the gauges do all sorts of funktastic stuff.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Actually yea my dad mentioned that as well. Say I wanted to replace the cables....how difficult would that be? Is it a plug and play kinda thing? Sorry for the novice question.

[Wingnut]

As with most auto-repair jobs, if you have an extra wrist, and 3 elbows in your right arm...You'll do fine.

 

It's not that bad, just a PITA. Last time I did it, it was on an '89, and took me about an hour. It's pretty plug and play, unless you buy the "cut your own" type kit. In which case it ups the complexity level by a factor of .03%.

 

My ex-g/f paid less than $100 to have it put on her truck a couple of years ago. And you know if a shop charges less than $100 for anything, it must be pretty dang easy, right?

[OUMike]

Yea..you'd think so. I think Imma have my battery and alternator tested. They are both fairly new so I could probably get replaements for them. If they are good I'll go with the cables.

 

Thanks Wingnut

[OUMike]

It's not that bad, just a PITA. Last time I did it, it was on an '89, and took me about an hour. It's pretty plug and play, unless you buy the "cut your own" type kit. In which case it ups the complexity level by a factor of .03%.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Ok...so I called Chevy and the OEM cables are about $150 for the both while the "do it yourself" kind are like maybe $40 for the pair. What is required from the cut your own type? Do I have to splice cables or anything?

[JRod]

Hello,

 

I would also check the single wire lead to your alternator. Mine loosened itself in the weatherpack housing, and i got similiar issues as yours. My blinkers stopped working, voltage dropped, car would run, but i couldnt go WOT or it would kill it. Speedo also was doing funky things.

 

Just a thought.