Steering Shaft Knock

pjmmoore · September 29, 2005

Back in July '04 I had the new, large yoke intermediate steering shaft (the large yoke is the newer design) installed under warranty. It worked, clunk-free, until just a few weeks ago. Figuring the new shaft suffered from the same problem as the original shaft (bad design and lack of grease) I decided to simply take loose the steering shaft on the engine side only and pump the shaft it's full distance about a 1/2 dozen times and then reassemble. Lo and behold this seems to have stopped the clunk - for how long, I don't know. My assumption was that the grease wasn't where it needed to be on the shaft and by pumping the shaft it would redistribute the grease where it needed to be once again. I just wanted to throw this out there for anyone else to try and let me know what your findings are. Also, if anyone is interested in getting a refurbed, large yoke shaft they are available on gmpartsdirect.com for $52 + s/h. Part number is 88965505.

deadmeat · September 29, 2005

I decided to simply take loose the steering shaft on the engine side only and pump the shaft it's full distance about a 1/2 dozen times and then reassemble.
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pjmmoore,

Any details on how to do this? I have the updated shaft and mine too is knocking again. I would like to try this, but am unclear as to what to do.

Thanks,

Steve

pjmmoore · September 29, 2005

Steve - inside the engine compartment you'll notice the steering shaft comes out of the firewall and heads down toward the steering box. On the intermediate shaft you'll notice a 15mm bolt going straight thru the shaft about halfway down. Unloosen the bolt (hold onto the nut opposite the bolt) and remove. Next, separate the shafts (intermediate from lower) holding onto the intermediate shaft. Do not spin the intermediate shaft. While holding the intermediate shaft simply push it toward the firewall and then pull back. Repeat as many times as you want - I did it about 6 times. After that, reassemble the shafts. Remember do not, at any point spin the intermediate shaft - hold it steady - a little jiggling is OK. Hope this helps.

Bish · September 29, 2005

I decided to simply take loose the steering shaft on the engine side only and pump the shaft it's full distance about a 1/2 dozen times and then reassemble.
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pjmmoore,

Any details on how to do this? I have the updated shaft and mine too is knocking again. I would like to try this, but am unclear as to what to do.

Thanks,

Steve

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Good guess as the re-lube process states to pump it fully closed and then fully extended.

To do it on vehicle, I'm guessing you just undo the bolt on the shaft near the steering box and push the shaft towards the firewall untill it stops. The shaft is a telescoping unit and collapsing and extending it should definitely redistribute the grease.

Good catch.

PunchT37 · September 30, 2005

Make sure the plastic bearing on the end of the column is not worn. Remove the upper bolt from the intermediate shaft and pull from the column. See if there is any up & down slop in the end of the COLUMN shaft. If there is, the knock will not go away even with a new intermediate shaft. Replace the end bearing. It`s easy but be careful cause it`s plastic. Just knock the old one out and tap the new one in. It only fits one way.

JMC · October 1, 2005

This may be old news but some of the guys on GMFS have replaced the stock shaft with a Borgeson & Mullins.. A little more expensive of course but a more permanent solution.

pjmmoore · October 2, 2005

Thanks for that info, JMC. I did not know about it. I'll probably invest in one of those after I go through the one I just got from gmpartsdirect.com.

BRZ71 · October 2, 2005

Dealer replaced mine for the third time yesterday. I have had 2 new design ones. I did notice this time that on the ticked it said that this one was a rebuild, and they were sending the other in as a core???? It looks like GM has resorted to just rebuilding the shafts.

caylerman · October 5, 2005

Dealer replaced mine for the third time yesterday. I have had 2 new design ones. I did notice this time that on the ticked it said that this one was a rebuild, and they were sending the other in as a core???? It looks like GM has resorted to just rebuilding the shafts.

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I have had mine replaced on my 2002 Sub twice and it still feels like someone banging on the shaft with a ball-peen hammer when turning. When they "lube" the shaft or replace it it works great for about 6 months and then the feel is back. I have just decided to "get used to it" on my 47 thousand dollar vehicle! This on top of the transmission being replaced after total failure at 24,000 miles, the parking brake assembly being replaced twice prior to 24,000 miles, the rear liftgate rubber gasket being replaced, the rear passenger doors being "re-adjusted" to eliminate the rubbing that was causing the doors to rub on the sills until bare metal was showing and an intermittent non-start issue that was resolved by replacing the battery (after more than 9 months of trouble-shooting and towing) that was showing no signs of being a problem. I will say this, Whitlowe Chevrolet in Richmond, VA has been nothing but phenominal in working with me through these issues, but I think this is my first and last GM truck!