Jump to content

Looking to buy a used Tahoe need advice


Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm the market for a used truck and I've had my eye on a Tahoe.

 

Basically I'm wondering what you guys think I should worry about or look for when buying a used Tahoe.

 

Right now I have my eye on a 2000 Z71 with 67,000 miles.

 

One of my big questions is at what mileage should I start worrying about age, assuming a basic maintenance routine.

 

My budget is about 15k. I'm trying to keep it below that, I found two trucks that caught my eye and I really like em.

 

Thanks for your help guys!!

Posted
I'm the market for a used truck and I've had my eye on a Tahoe.

 

Basically I'm wondering what you guys think I should worry about or look for when buying a used Tahoe.

 

Right now I have my eye on a 2000 Z71 with 67,000 miles.

 

One of my big questions is at what mileage should I start worrying about age, assuming a basic maintenance routine.

 

My budget is about 15k. I'm trying to keep it below that, I found two trucks that caught my eye and I really like em.

 

Thanks for your help guys!!

 

 

 

 

I've got about 159K on my Hoe and it's been reliable with a few exceptions. I'd say get ready for a fuel pump any day now; mine went at 70K. Alternator went at 60K. You may be looking at a loose front end by 100K, worse if 4x4. I completely rebuilt mine at 145K but I also grease every oil change and that makes a big difference. My tranny lasted to 140K when it started slipping so I had it built :cheers: Water pump (and hoses to be safe) at 150K. I'm on my second set of Bilstein HD shocks. You would be due at that mileage. Brakes could be in good shape or toast depending on how it was driven.

 

Having said all that, I fully expect to roll over 200K without any significant issues. I don't mine the consumable stuff like tires, brakes, belts, hoses. However. there is no reason the alternator doesn't last 150K and likewise the fuel pump but it didn't surprise me they failed. I still love my truck and hope to drive it a few more years!!

 

Good luck on your purchase.

Posted

Hey Bish,

 

you said you had to have your front end rebuilt? Can you go into a bit more detail on that? was it just normal Wear and Tear or were you pretty rough on her? Also can you go into a bit more detail about the tranny slipping as well? How much did it cost to have it rebuilt?

Posted

Goto the autos.msn.com

In the upper left hand corner, pick the make and model of the used vehicle you are looking at. Select the year. Goto the reliability tab. It will show the common problems of that vehicle and the cost of repair. I found this to be very accurate.

Posted

Yikes, pretty bad, they rated the 99 and 2000 Silverado rather poorly, the 99 F-150 got great marks, as did the 99 Ram 1500 :D

Posted
I'm the market for a used truck and I've had my eye on a Tahoe.

 

Basically I'm wondering what you guys think I should worry about or look for when buying a used Tahoe.

 

Right now I have my eye on a 2000 Z71 with 67,000 miles.

 

One of my big questions is at what mileage should I start worrying about age, assuming a basic maintenance routine.

 

My budget is about 15k. I'm trying to keep it below that, I found two trucks that caught my eye and I really like em.

 

Thanks for your help guys!!

 

 

 

 

If you budget is about 15K, heck you are real close to swinging a new truck for that price. They just advertised a crew cab 06 for 21K in the paper here today.

I think you can get a extended cab 2WD, 06 for way under 20K now with the latest price rollbacks.

 

I would really look at new verses used, your interest rate would likley be much better also.

Posted
Hey Bish,

 

you said you had to have your front end rebuilt?  Can you go into a bit more detail on that?  was it just normal Wear and Tear or were you pretty rough on her?  Also can you go into a bit more detail about the tranny slipping as well?  How much did it cost to have it rebuilt?

 

 

 

 

Sure.

 

Steering started to get loose. Jacked the front end up and crawled under pushing and tugging on everything and found 2 inner tie rod ends with play. Pretty much any play means it has worn out. At that point, I figured with 145K, the rest of the components were probably near end of life and I didn't want to do it again so I decided to replace everything.

 

I replaced the following.

 

Ball joints x 4

Tie rod ends x 4

Pitman arm

Idler arm

Control Arm bushings x 8 (2 upper, 2 lower, both sides)

Sway bar bushings x 2

Sway bar end links x 2

 

Rock Auto for most of the parts...Moog HD all around. I did all the work myself (except the alignment) with the help of a fairly good tool collection including air tools and the use of a 15 ton press. It tightened things up nicely. I still have some play in the steering gear but I'll be replacing that in a month. Not necessary as it is nothing more than an annoyance but I'm pretty anal about maintenance and if I'm going to fix it, I'm going to do it right. Realistically, I could have just done the 2 tie rod ends and been good to go but I plan on rolling well over 200K so I would have had to do it sooner or later.

 

I consider all of that wear and tear. I don't constantly beat my truck but I do drive in a "spirited" manner :D

 

Regarding the tranny slippage, I would get some slip during a 2-3 shift at WOT. This was happening for about 10-15K miles. No slip in normal driving but I knew the frictions were going. I may have been able to drive it a lot longer the way it was btu I rebuilt it for 3 reasons. 1> I didn't want to grenade the tranny and cause more damage or $$$$. 2> I tow frequently for long distances (1000k+) and with slipping frictions, I could easily burn up the tranny in the middle of nowhere. 3> I was itching to have a built tranny so I could remove torque management, put in a shift kit, and not destroy the stock 4L60E. I also put in a Vigilante Torque converter with a 2400 stall and a WAAAY better triple disc lockup clutch. When the lockup occurs, it almost feels like another gear with a 500+rpm drop.

 

I had Chuck at Finish Line Transmission rebuild it. He had a great reputation and just happened to be about a quarter mile down the street from my company. I thought about doing it myself but ended up not having the time due to an upcomming dirtbike trip (towing) from Chicago to Albuquerque. I watched him for about 3/4 of the time and was glad I chose to have him do it. He is a really nice guy and explained everything to me. He also does trannies by mail. The tranny rebuild was around $1800 and the torque converter was aroung $1000. I could have gotten a TC for under $500 but as I said, I tow a lot and I want the best :D I pulled and installed the tranny myself (another comical story).

 

I figure at this point I should be pretty good for another 100K with minimal $$ maintenance. I hope the info helped! Let me know if you have more questions.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,837
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    bellssn690
    Newest Member
    bellssn690
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 929 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes, and also pulling heavy trailers or a large camper up steep grades as well as descending grades such as the more rustic off road camping locations and using engine braking with that low gearing as well as soft ground can just suck the power . I realize pickups these days tend to have an over all lower first gear ratio compared to automatic transmission pickups from years back so that has helped a lot in its ability in high range but there comes a point if in four wheel drive the torque runs out at the wheels, certainly with a gas engine. They don't put two speed transfer cases on pickups for a cool factor, they have a function if one needs that massive torque to the wheels that high range can't deliver. 
    • Notes 7/18/2026   3,400 miles on this batch of Mobil 1 Euro 5W40 since the GDI pump replacement. Alcohol runs very clean when ring seal is tight and the sump isn't getting hosed with fuel. Checked oil level at fill up today as is my practice and grabbed a white Kleenex to look at the color. What color?  I was going to change it but.....  
    • 4 low is really nice on steep boat ramps. 
    • Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  
    • Those can be high, as well as the big California cities. The ones that will pop your eyes out are the 395 corridor on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas. Lee Vining, $7.19 for regular and $8.89 for diesel is what the Google said right now.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...