Jump to content

evap emission canister location??


Recommended Posts

Posted

2001 Yukon 5.3 wondering where the evap emission canister is located. throwing code 446. Flunky parts guy at deealer said it was located above the fuel tank or right inside the tank which doesn't sound right to me. Any thoughts on it location or where I could find a diagram on line? thanks TB

Posted

Before you replace the Evap Canister read this

 

Subject: DTC P0446 (Restricted/Blocked EVAP Vent Path) Set, Service Engine Soon (SES) Lamp Illuminated (Replace Hose/Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Vent Asm) #02-06-04-037A - (02/02/2005)

Models: 1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado Models

1999-2003 GMC Sierra Models

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-06-04-037 (Section 06 -- Engine/Propulsion System).

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition

Some customers whose vehicles are operated in dusty type environments, such as farming or mining off-road type applications, may comment about the illumination of the instrument panel SES light, with a DTC of P0446 (Restricted/Blocked EVAP Vent Path) being set.

 

Cause

Dirt and dust intrusion into the EVAP canister vent hose assembly, resulting in restricted air flow, may cause this condition.

 

Correction

After following the Service Manual diagnostic P0446 and determining that the EVAP canister vent valve is the cause of the SES light, replace the existing EVAP canister vent hose assembly with a new assembly, P/N 15086429. This new assembly has an enhanced filtering capability and a filter element that can be easily removed and cleaned. To ensure correct installation, follow the procedure below.

 

Raise the vehicle. Suitably support the vehicle.

Disconnect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector.

Disconnect the vent valve pipe at the EVAP canister.

Remove and retain the EVAP canister vent valve bracket mounting bolt.

Disengage, from the underbody, the two vent valve pipe clips securing the pipe to the underbody.

Remove and discard the complete EVAP canister vent hose assembly.

Position and secure the new assembly to the underbody using the existing hole and mounting bolt.

Tighten

Tighten the bracket mounting bolt to 12 N·m (106 lb in).

 

Install the two vent valve pipe clips into the existing underbody holes.

Connect the vent valve pipe to the EVAP canister.

Connect the EVAP canister vent valve electrical connector.

Lower the vehicle.

When properly installed, the new EVAP canister vent hose assembly will be positioned outboard of the original installation location. This new location provides clearance for accessing the filter element for cleaning purposes. To access the filter element, disengage the filter cover to valve locking finger by gently lifting the finger upward while simultaneously rotating the filter body clockwise. After approximately 45 degrees of rotation, the filter can be disengaged from the valve by gently pulling outward. The filter cover can then be removed and the filter element and body can be washed with soap and water. Prior to reinstalling, ensure that the body and filter element are dry.

 

Parts Information

Part Number 15086429 Hose Asm-Evap Emis Cnstr Vent

 

2164061_26_full.jpg

Posted

I should clarify I wasn't looking to replace the canister, I had assumed the vent solenoid and bracket were located on the canister (I was wrong). I had searched and chevytech007 had posted a service bullitin (#04-06-04-055a) on the 446 code and it had advised to change the vent solenoid and bracket part #'s 103821050 and 15105605. I think the date on that bullitin was 3-20-06 and yours is fro feb 05 which do you think I should follow or both??? Thank you for your quick response.

Posted
I should clarify I wasn't looking to replace the canister, I had assumed the vent solenoid and bracket were located on the canister (I was wrong).  I had searched and chevytech007 had posted a service bullitin (#04-06-04-055a) on the 446 code and it had advised to change the vent solenoid and bracket part #'s 103821050 and 15105605.  I think the date on that bullitin was 3-20-06 and yours is fro feb 05 which do you think I should follow or both???  Thank you for your quick response.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Dont use mine, his is more up to date, I think when I put you vehicle info in I used the wrong year, becuase when I put in a 2001 Yukon i does not shop the TSB that I posted.

 

His is correct and up to date

Posted

Thanks for the posts the diagram was perfect and I'm glad the new one is the right one the price difference was $100.00 more for the filter thing although I liked the way it sounded! TB

  • 10 months later...
Posted
It is mounted on the fuel tank. On the front side.

 

i'm new to the mesaaging; however, agreeing with you except when doing so is a financial expendature to the tune of $500/repair stop. SES light traced to electrical connection at the tank, 200 miles later, same SES.

 

Hope it turns out better than it's started.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I reckon this would be under this topic my 2003 silverado ls is showing SES and it comes w/ code PO455 - EVAP large leak detected

1. Defective, loose or missing fuel cap - replaced

2. EVAP canisterbroke, hose cracked or not connected - everything checked ok

3. Purge or vent solenoid defective - see comments below *

4. Vacuum leak at engine - sprayed ether all around intake manifold no high revs came from it

*this where I google and came up your link trying to locate vent solenoid, but I don't what I'm looking for if was snake probably bit me.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
2001 Yukon 5.3 wondering where the evap emission canister is located. throwing code 446. Flunky parts guy at deealer said it was located above the fuel tank or right inside the tank which doesn't sound right to me. Any thoughts on it location or where I could find a diagram on line? thanks TB

 

I have the same problem where did you find your part from

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Does anyone know if you must remove the fuel tank in order to change the vent valve solenoid? I have the new part in hand (#19152345), but I don't see how to access the solenoid. Any ideas? Oh, this is on a 2002 Silverado Z71 5.3L. Thanks.

  • 9 months later...
Posted
I reckon this would be under this topic my 2003 silverado ls is showing SES and it comes w/ code PO455 - EVAP large leak detected

1. Defective, loose or missing fuel cap - replaced

2. EVAP canisterbroke, hose cracked or not connected - everything checked ok

3. Purge or vent solenoid defective - see comments below *

4. Vacuum leak at engine - sprayed ether all around intake manifold no high revs came from it

*this where I google and came up your link trying to locate vent solenoid, but I don't what I'm looking for if was snake probably bit me.

 

 

Kind of an old thread... but im having the same issue... does anyone know where to find the solenoid? Thanks

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
Does anyone know if you must remove the fuel tank in order to change the vent valve solenoid? I have the new part in hand (#19152345), but I don't see how to access the solenoid. Any ideas? Oh, this is on a 2002 Silverado Z71 5.3L. Thanks.

 

 

were you able to find a fix to this? if so, you mind sharing the how to's?

  • 10 months later...
Posted
Does anyone know if you must remove the fuel tank in order to change the vent valve solenoid? I have the new part in hand (#19152345), but I don't see how to access the solenoid. Any ideas? Oh, this is on a 2002 Silverado Z71 5.3L. Thanks.

 

 

were you able to find a fix to this? if so, you mind sharing the how to's?

 

 

Can anyone help me out, and be specific where you found your vent valve solenoid? I have an '06 Silverado 1500 5.3 Extended Cab Short Bed. I looked around the bottom of my truck, near the tank, and I can't seem to find it. Is is inside a box, or behind something?

 

I did searches on this forum. I even have a Chilton's shop book for my truck. None of there resources helped me. Looks like Chevy installed this solenoid in a "non-standard" location for this certain truck.

 

Thanks in advance for anyone who can help me.

Posted

For starters take the generic Chilton's and throw it in the circular file and get a real manual the OEM FSM with the correct info. No you do not have to remove the tank it can be accessed from underneath or by lifting off the box.

 

Does anyone know if you must remove the fuel tank in order to change the vent valve solenoid? I have the new part in hand (#19152345), but I don't see how to access the solenoid. Any ideas? Oh, this is on a 2002 Silverado Z71 5.3L. Thanks.

 

 

were you able to find a fix to this? if so, you mind sharing the how to's?

 

 

Can anyone help me out, and be specific where you found your vent valve solenoid? I have an '06 Silverado 1500 5.3 Extended Cab Short Bed. I looked around the bottom of my truck, near the tank, and I can't seem to find it. Is is inside a box, or behind something?

 

I did searches on this forum. I even have a Chilton's shop book for my truck. None of there resources helped me. Looks like Chevy installed this solenoid in a "non-standard" location for this certain truck.

 

Thanks in advance for anyone who can help me.

 

Posted

I had a P0446 (i think) and the vent valve was stuck closed. P0445 would seem to indicate it stuck open :cheers:

 

A cigarette pack sized black box near the rear of the fuel tank was the culprit. It has a wire harness and a tube connected to it. I took it completely out, disassembled what I could of it and gave it a good cleaning. I flushed it with water then air then let it dry thoroughly.

 

While it was on the bench I set it in the position it would be if it was mounted on the truck and 'exercised' the solenoid valve with a 12v battery and wires to loosen up the inaccessible crud. At first it operated only 4 out of 10 times. The more I cleaned it the better it worked. When it worked 10 out of 10 times I put it back in and have not had any trouble out of it since (Sept. '08).

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 585 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...